Kit Karson Posted January 24, 2022 Author Posted January 24, 2022 Looking a potential belly pan materials: Revell Orande Crate Belly Pan (2) -KK Some of you will remember when I pulled these together: '29 roadster tires & deuce wires -KK
Dennis Lacy Posted January 25, 2022 Posted January 25, 2022 Can’t wait to watch the belly pan come together. I remember our friend RRR made one years ago for a T Roadster and he used pieces from the Revell Kurtis Midget’s because they have louvers on the vertical areas. 1
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted January 25, 2022 Posted January 25, 2022 7 hours ago, Dennis Lacy said: Can’t wait to watch the belly pan come together. I remember our friend RRR made one years ago for a T Roadster and he used pieces from the Revell Kurtis Midget’s because they have louvers on the vertical areas. The belly pan louvers on the '27 T were from the Revell '32 hood sides. Buildup pix here: https://public.fotki.com/jferren/lakes-turtledeck/ -RRR 1
Kit Karson Posted January 26, 2022 Author Posted January 26, 2022 First things first... gotta get the height issue addressed: Knock down the rear frame mounting holes: Lay out the frame inner lines on the floorboard (remove the ridges) so the floorboard sits flush on top of the frame: File off the ridges: Here's the before & after: Ready for the body: Not bad for step one in channeling the roadster body over the narrowed deuce frame: Next, the inner fender panel needs to be notched over the frame:
Mr. Metallic Posted January 26, 2022 Posted January 26, 2022 With the way you have the engine dressed, this is my favorite companion wheel/tire setup. However, there are other choices you presented that would look great too, it's just this is my favorite Glad you're taking the time to file away the extra long ribs on the floor pan so the frame sits flush. That gains you about a scale inch of lowering. You probably already planned to, but please fill the notches in the floor pan where the interior side panels slot in. 2
Kit Karson Posted January 28, 2022 Author Posted January 28, 2022 (edited) On 1/26/2022 at 1:55 PM, Mr. Metallic said: With the way you have the engine dressed, this is my favorite companion wheel/tire setup. However, there are other choices you presented that would look great too, it's just this is my favorite Glad you're taking the time to file away the extra long ribs on the floor pan so the frame sits flush. That gains you about a scale inch of lowering. You probably already planned to, but please fill the notches in the floor pan where the interior side panels slot in. Craig, I hear ya, Brother! Actually, I seriously considering this set for the TROG version... might have to have an alternate set of wheels & tires to exchange & change the look, too! A close second would be one of these three: We'll just have to see how this all comes together... -KK Edited January 28, 2022 by Kit Karson delete a picture
Kit Karson Posted January 28, 2022 Author Posted January 28, 2022 (edited) Had a thought about the easy belly pan method: Thought I'd toss the '41 Lincoln rear end under the rear end... Slipped the Revell Orange Crate Belly Pan between the narrowed Deuce Rails: Almost fits! Need to cut out around the steering box mount: Couple of cuts later... Nice simple way to add a belly pan under the Roadster! Either way you look at it... it fits (even with a little room for movement): From the side... and a little tilted: but you get the idea. -KK ps Or should the pan be located on the outside of the frame? Edited January 29, 2022 by Kit Karson Text correction...
chris chabre Posted January 29, 2022 Posted January 29, 2022 Belly pans usually wrap the frame, BUT, according to the SCTA rulebook, if it covers AT LEAST 51% of the underneath of the vehicle, its considered a belly pan. The other option is a step pan which starts at the firewall and ends 10 inches in front of the rear axle centerline. At that point it must bend up to the floor. The SCTA rulebook is a funny book to read, if you read between the lines, its easy to build a car that will be legal through the gray areas...AS LONG AS the tech inspector interprets it the same way. 1
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted January 29, 2022 Posted January 29, 2022 Bellypan should be outside the frame and the pan should be flat. The way it is now with that bend, the wind would get under the front and push the car up. The pan should almost touch the ground at the front axle...IMHO -RRR 1
Kit Karson Posted January 29, 2022 Author Posted January 29, 2022 15 hours ago, chris chabre said: Belly pans usually wrap the frame, BUT, according to the SCTA rulebook, if it covers AT LEAST 51% of the underneath of the vehicle, it's considered a belly pan. The other option is a step pan which starts at the firewall and ends 10 inches in front of the rear axle centerline. At that point it must bend up to the floor. The SCTA rulebook is a funny book to read, if you read between the lines, it's easy to build a car that will be legal through the gray areas...AS LONG AS the tech inspector interprets it the same way. 15 hours ago, Rocking Rodney Rat said: Belly pan should be outside the frame and the pan should be flat. The way it is now with that bend, the wind would get under the front and push the car up. The pan should almost touch the ground at the front axle...IMHO -RRR On 1/25/2022 at 1:25 AM, Dennis Lacy said: Can’t wait to watch the belly pan come together. I remember our friend RRR made one years ago for a T Roadster, and he used pieces from the Revell Kurtis Midget’s because they have louvers on the vertical areas. I will defer to the Niekamp '29 Roadster: Need I say more? -KK
Kit Karson Posted February 1, 2022 Author Posted February 1, 2022 (edited) OK, it's down to brass tacks... gotta set the V-12 between the rails: The Front Cover Assembly from the AMT 1941 Ford Woody Street Rod is now providing the front motor mounts resting atop the deuce frame. Due to the current overall height of the track nose, originally from the Revell '29 Ford Roadster/ PU kit, the nose needed to be further modified. Following a couple of different setups, each with a number of scale inches requiring excess material to be removed. A wedge cut will again bring the face of the nose back a few more degrees, that being a good thing! And, by slicing from the back edge of the nose to a single point on either side at the lower forward edge of the grille opening, the second cut would remove enough material to shorten the overall height without affecting the height of the grille opening. Here I intend to leave the line and remove the smaller v-cut area. The wider angle would have taken out too much height, following the old adage: measure twice and cut once! Big difference in attitude and profile! I have to share this, RRR came through with a vintage trailer and I'll keep the rest of the parts on the down low for now! Thanks, Brother! Oh! And ADL for chipping in and shipping a brand-new Rat Roaster TKO500 Transmissions all the way from the left coast for the '29 Track Nose build! Thanks, Bro! I'll leave you with this: the '28 XPU pulling the '29 Track Nose on the old-style single axle trailer all with open wheels?!. -KK Edited February 1, 2022 by Kit Karson Add a picture... & Text correction...
chris chabre Posted February 2, 2022 Posted February 2, 2022 Cant go wrong with that combo! The track nose looks so much better with the pie cut! 1
bisc63 Posted February 2, 2022 Posted February 2, 2022 15 hours ago, Kit Karson said: the '28 XPU This is just plain cool. 1
bobthehobbyguy Posted February 2, 2022 Posted February 2, 2022 Really cool. Going to look great together. 1
Bainford Posted February 2, 2022 Posted February 2, 2022 Very cool project, and awesome supercharged v-12 concept. Love it. I enjoy the hot rod wips, though I haven't built a hot rod in decades. I loved to build them when I was young, but decades of going through muscle cars and then vintage sports cars, in scale and in 1:1, I have lost my personal hot rod edge. I am amazed at the knowledge of hot rod subtleties and engineering displayed by forum members. I have a few hot rod projects in my project book and would like to get a couple built, but I find myself lagging behind in intimate knowledge of the genre. I particularly enjoy threads such as this one, which is a fountain on information on hot rod building, and the parts available to do so. I appreciate your taking the time to photograph and explain things well. Excellent thread, and wicked build. Cheers. 1
Kit Karson Posted February 2, 2022 Author Posted February 2, 2022 2 hours ago, Bainford said: Very cool project, and awesome supercharged v-12 concept. Love it. I enjoy the hot rod wips, though I haven't built a hot rod in decades. I loved to build them when I was young, but decades of going through muscle cars and then vintage sports cars, in scale and in 1:1, I have lost my personal hot rod edge. I am amazed at the knowledge of hot rod subtleties and engineering displayed by forum members. I have a few hot rod projects in my project book and would like to get a couple built, but I find myself lagging behind in intimate knowledge of the genre. I particularly enjoy threads such as this one, which is a fountain on information on hot rod building, and the parts available to do so. I appreciate your taking the time to photograph and explain things well. Excellent thread, and wicked build. Cheers. Trevor, You are too kind, Brother! I would be first in line to see what you have in your stable... several here are hacks just like me; gluing our fingers together and slicing deep enough to draw blood from anyone of nine or ten fingers! Most are old enough to be able to recall many former hot rod builds of 'or. And now with the inter-web pictures and background information is right under our fingertips! 1
mrm Posted February 3, 2022 Posted February 3, 2022 Jimmy Flintstone offers pretty much identical resin body as you have created for your pick up. I’ve looked at it many times and always found it to be really cool, but always scratched my head what was the purpose of it being so short. Somehow the idea of using it as a “crew cab” pick up never crossed my mind. Seeing your build, I may actually get one and do something similar, as I find the idea truly great. 1
Dave72 Posted February 4, 2022 Posted February 4, 2022 This is one of those threads that you have to read several times because there is such a wealth of knowledge and information not to mention an awesome hot rod in the making! Thanks for sharing all of the great details of your build! 3
Kit Karson Posted February 4, 2022 Author Posted February 4, 2022 19 hours ago, mrm said: Jimmy Flintstone offers pretty much identical resin body as you have created for your pickup. I’ve looked at it many times and always found it to be really cool, but always scratched my head what was the purpose of it being so short. Somehow the idea of using it as a “crew cab” pick up never crossed my mind. Seeing your build, I may actually get one and do something similar, as I find the idea truly great. Interestingly enough I was looking at the Revell '31 Ford Sedan and using the same basic plan: Then I saw the Revell '32 Ford Sedan sitting on the shelf: So many models... so little time! -KK
Kit Karson Posted February 4, 2022 Author Posted February 4, 2022 14 hours ago, Dave72 said: This is one of those threads that you have to read several times because there is such a wealth of knowledge and information not to mention an awesome hot rod in the making! Thanks for sharing all of the great details of your build! You are too kind, Brother... right now trying to keep up with this and the '28 XPU together are extremely exciting for me, as well! -KK 1
Kit Karson Posted February 4, 2022 Author Posted February 4, 2022 '29 Track Nose Belly Pan Progress Starting with the Revell Orange Crate Belly Pan fitting rather nicely between the previously narrowed Revell '29 Roadster Deuce Chassis that will become the foundation for the full belly pan that will wrap around the deuce rails. Where previously it was placed between the rails... Starting behind the highly modified Revell '29 Roadster/PU Track Nose the Revell '32 Ford Hood had a leading edge that pretty much matched the bottom of the nose... but, needed to be narrowed to the width of the Revell '29 Roadster Firewall opening: Quick V-Cut Pull the back edges together and stiffen the backbone with a strip of stock and a piece of bench trash to fill the crack in the front... A little dry time... Check the angle of the lower forward belly pan against the underside of the deuce frame: Better... aaa a little wiggle room: Now the middle inner belly pan has to come together with the rear inner belly pan: The second ROC belly pan will donate its middle section to the puzzle: Now to size up the joints... the rear inner pan needs to be widened at the front where it will join with the soon to be v-cut middle inner section: RRR will remind you that there are two sides to every line. Leave the line or take the line are calls that need to be decided before the cut is made. When you leave the line there is material left that can be shaved to fit... take the line and fill in later! I'll save you the gory details of bringing the final inner belly pan together... Fast forward... One last look at the ragged interior of the inner belly pan: Looking like it'll fit... Cleaned up and fit back between the rails... Tucked in under the deuce frame... Moving forward... Mock it all up for a quick look: From back forward... On to the mid-section... Then looking at the nose and forward belly pan. Add in a couple of wheels... and the '29 Track Nose is really starting to take shape! -KK
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted February 5, 2022 Posted February 5, 2022 It's a pleasure to watch the master at work.... . . . . -RRR 1
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