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Posted

Does anyone have tips for printing clear parts. I will only be printing lights and small parts and not full screens. I can get them to print but its very hit and miss on the sucess rate. The problem I'm having is getting the parts to stay on the supports. I can get them to stay if i increase the support attachment to 1mm but that ruins the edges of the print. I'm using anycubic waterwashable clear resin with a 1.5 sec exposure time in a warm room. I dont mind them turning out slightly yellow'd as some time in the sun seems to fix it and print lines i get rid of by brushing on more clear resin before curing but i'd like to have a higher sucess rate. at the moment if i was printing light lenses i'd have to print 10 to get 2 decent enough to use.

Posted
On 2/27/2024 at 5:23 PM, stitchdup said:

Does anyone have tips for printing clear parts. I will only be printing lights and small parts and not full screens. I can get them to print but its very hit and miss on the sucess rate. The problem I'm having is getting the parts to stay on the supports. I can get them to stay if i increase the support attachment to 1mm but that ruins the edges of the print. I'm using anycubic waterwashable clear resin with a 1.5 sec exposure time in a warm room. I dont mind them turning out slightly yellow'd as some time in the sun seems to fix it and print lines i get rid of by brushing on more clear resin before curing but i'd like to have a higher sucess rate. at the moment if i was printing light lenses i'd have to print 10 to get 2 decent enough to use.

Can you show a pic of one in the slicer? I printed some transparent green lenses for my C-cab and I supported them from the rear.

Posted

further to my attempt using a dash can sd card in place of the memory sticks, it turns out the sd cards are the wrong format. my friend who knows more than m about this stuff has it reformatting in the correct format now. i'll update on how it goes once i have a print done.

Posted
4 hours ago, stitchdup said:

further to my attempt using a dash can sd card in place of the memory sticks, it turns out the sd cards are the wrong format. my friend who knows more than m about this stuff has it reformatting in the correct format now. i'll update on how it goes once i have a print done.

Aren't computers fun? :wacko:

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Failed print over the weekend. Got a "memory error" message, and then the USB port stopped reading anything I stuck into it.

Elegoo support responded super quick, and gave me a few things to try before getting into replacement parts.

First is to make sure my USB sticks are formatted correctly. Which is odd, as they've always worked before. But I'll give it a try.

Then they want me to open the back panel and investigate the USB port itself. 

Sounds like I have an evening project!

 

Posted

Just an FYI for folks buying pre-printed parts...there is a lot of poorly designed, poorly scaled, and poorly printed stuff out there, so look critically at what you're buying.

EXAMPLE: there's a "Ford FE" on feepay right now that looks as much like an FE as I do. The plugs are on top of the heads, and he's got the intake manifold feeding into the block.

Pathetic phoned-in garbage, but somebody's going to buy it.

  • Like 2
Posted

this is why I will not buy online printed parts . people are quick to point out kit issues but will pay 30$ for a printed blob

Posted (edited)

Is there anyone on here that designs and sells resin prints? I'm wanting the quad headlight grill for the Dodge D50 pickup. It used to be available on shapeways but has since disappeared.

 

d50.jpg

 

3 - 1986 Dodge Ram D50.JPG

Edited by DaveB
Posted
16 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Just an FYI for folks buying pre-printed parts...there is a lot of poorly designed, poorly scaled, and poorly printed stuff out there, so look critically at what you're buying.

EXAMPLE: there's a "Ford FE" on feepay right now that looks as much like an FE as I do. The plugs are on top of the heads, and he's got the intake manifold feeding into the block.

Pathetic phoned-in garbage, but somebody's going to buy it.

It's one of the reasons I've stressed to newbies that they really need to get familiar with the 3D programs out there, as that can go a long way in spotting and correcting bad files/prints.

Sadly, there's some fraudsters out there like any other field----people staring at the ceiling at midnight, beating their knuckles at the headboard trying to figure out what they can do to beat someone out of their money. I've already gotten my fair share of complaints about X person and files/prints via emails or PM's, so I can definitely believe there's a lot of nonsense happening in the 3D world unfortunately.

The latest trick are these fraud "3D designers" who will put up a post on FB for example saying they can design a car to anyone's specs. The problem is, you go to their profile page (many don't), and there are no examples whatsoever of any of their WIP's or any printed product that they ostensibly designed.

Yet............I keep hearing stories over and over again how this person was taken by such and such, and they lost a bunch of money over it.

Eyes and ears open folks-----the hustlers are out there as I've met 'em, and have had to get quite nasty in the recent past with a few very obvious frauds.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
16 hours ago, Jack L said:

this is why I will not buy online printed parts . people are quick to point out kit issues but will pay 30$ for a printed blob

There are a few very good reputable folks out there printing outstanding parts. 3D Scale Parts, Texas 3D Customs, VCG by Reese, and Iceman Collections make excellent parts.
I've had equally worse parts delivered from resin casters as 3D printers. Poor performers can be found from any production process. Yeah, never had a bad styrene kit I guess.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 4/8/2024 at 2:53 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

Just an FYI for folks buying pre-printed parts...there is a lot of poorly designed, poorly scaled, and poorly printed stuff out there, so look critically at what you're buying.

EXAMPLE: there's a "Ford FE" on feepay right now that looks as much like an FE as I do. The plugs are on top of the heads, and he's got the intake manifold feeding into the block.

Pathetic phoned-in garbage, but somebody's going to buy it.

Not everyone's FE is wrong you just need to be diligent with what you buy. This goes for any printed part. The printed part can only be as good as the digital model it's based on.

FB_IMG_1712022751345.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, Texas_3D_Customs said:

Not everyone's FE is wrong you just need to be diligent with what you buy. This goes for any printed part. The printed part can only be as good as the digital model it's based on.

I'm entirely aware of that, and your stuff looks beautiful.

I'll personally be a many-times repeat client once I have more time to build again.

EDIT: And I'm really happy you're doing such fine work.  

Too bad there are so many "me too" talentless blind scam-hackers who either don't have a clue or just don't care.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
  • Like 1
Posted
11 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

I'm entirely aware of that, and your stuff looks beautiful.

I'll personally be a many-times repeat client once I have more time to build again.

EDIT: And I'm really happy you're doing such fine work.  

Too bad there are so many "me too" talentless blind scam-hackers who either don't have a clue or just don't care.

This was not really about me or what I make, but it is. What I was trying to convey is that as a buyer, which I am not, you need to be careful what you buy. Now the "hacks" are also responsible for what they produce but the power to drive the market and quality really is in the hands of the consumer at least in this market. 

  • Like 4
Posted (edited)

You guys are having way too much fun here.  So I had to get in on this.   I have an anycubic photon m5s pro being delivered tomorrow!  I can't wait to start the learning process.

 

On 1/17/2024 at 8:00 AM, Zippi said:

Before retirement I was a CMM Programmer in the Quality dept. at an Automotive company so I'm well aware of the enviroment and how it changes the machinery and the product. 

 

Hey Bob, I've been a CMM programmer since the mid 90's.  Good to meet another metrologist out in the wild.

Edited by atomicholiday
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, atomicholiday said:

You guys are having way too much fun here.  So I had to get in on this.   I have an anycubic photon m5s pro being delivered tomorrow!  I can't wait to start the learning process.

 

 

Hey Bob, I've been a CMM programmer since the mid 90's.  Good to meet another metrologist out in the wild.

Metrologist?  You mean you predict the weather?  

Just kidding... I was partners in a calibration lab before I retired.  Yes, we even owned a CMM, although I never spent enough time with it to get proficient.  

Edited by Big_John
  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/18/2024 at 6:31 AM, atomicholiday said:

You guys are having way too much fun here.  So I had to get in on this.   I have an anycubic photon m5s pro being delivered tomorrow!  I can't wait to start the learning process.

 

 

Hey Bob, I've been a CMM programmer since the mid 90's.  Good to meet another metrologist out in the wild.

It can be fun and frustrating. Check out YT vids, they helped me a lot.

  • Like 1
Posted
15 hours ago, Big_John said:

Metrologist?  You mean you predict the weather?  

Just kidding... I was partners in a calibration lab before I retired.  Yes, we even owned a CMM, although I never spent enough time with it to get proficient.  


Cool!  One of the guys on my crew used to own a metrology business.  Very smart guy.  Probably the best programmer I ever met.

I don’t get nearly enough time on the cmm anymore.  I supervise the lab now and that takes up the majority of my day.  But I used to program full time.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 12/5/2023 at 7:23 PM, MrObsessive said:

There's way, way, way too much to try and explain in a little text box here. I do have a YT channel where I go over some aspects of converting files to print. Not video game files per se, but .obj files. The vid game files need to be in the .obj format first before anything can be done to 'em. That's a whole 'nuther kettle of fish as there's certain programs you need to convert a lot of those, and that can't be explained here how those programs need to function.

Here's one of my vids............

 

Just subscribed to your youtube channel. as I dabble in Blender.

  • Like 2
Posted

what can i use to grease the jack screw on the print plate riser? mine is a bit dry and the grease that is there is pretty dirty now. it seems logical to me to use clean stuff before it becomes a problem

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Is there a non toxic resin that works pretty well? Does it really decrease the smell when printing?  I can't use my printer with the supplied Phrozen resin because the smell makes my mother in law sick and it might be easier to switch resin than install a ventilation system.

Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, Fat Brian said:

Is there a non toxic resin that works pretty well? Does it really decrease the smell when printing?  I can't use my printer with the supplied Phrozen resin because the smell makes my mother in law sick and it might be easier to switch resin than install a ventilation system.

I can't help you with the resin, but I use these filters. They really help a lot with the odor.

Filters <--- link

You can find them cheaper on Amazon and Ebay.

Edited by stinkybritches
more words

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