Amber lights, 3 different techniques.

[Bills72sj]

I like to have my amber lights stand out in contrast to the paint. I just used 3 different techniques for some running lights and fog lights on an ongoing build.

I thought I would share them here in case they may work for you.

#1a and 1b Chrome fog lights:

These mount from the rear. I applied an alcohol based artist pen to change the kit chrome to amber.

The fit and/retention location on these is very poor. I used Testors window maker to retain them as it wicks around the perimeter and dries crystal clear.

#2 Cab visor running lights:

These are each supposed to sit into an individual well. This really dulls/darkens the lenses.

I opened up the back of each well and used BMF on the back side of the visor to add reflectivity.

Once in place and lightly held by the BMF, I used Future floor polish to be the "adhesive" and gloss the lenses and the visor.

#3 Side skirt running lights:

Again drilled out the back side of the recess and retained the amber lenses.

However, this time the reflectivity is provided by some Molotow applied to the back of the lens as BMF would be to far away due to the thickness of the part.

[Bugatti Fan]

Good tips Bill.

Some kits only supply clear transparencies. BMF and Molotow work well at the back as Bill suggested and on clear parts I have used Tamiya's translucent orange on the fronts. They also do blue, green and red.

[peteski]

1 hour ago, Bugatti Fan said:

I have used Tamiya's translucent orange on the fronts. They also do blue, green and red.

. . . and yellow (for fog lights or French headlighs).

[Matt Bacon]

Clear/Pledge/Future (whatever it is now in your country), coloured with food colouring works as a dip. Leave the part to dry on a paper towel, and repeat as needed to get the colour density you want. If you're using Tamiya, painting the front and back of the lens helps even out the colour if you're brushing it. Obviously, put the silver reflector coat on on the back last of all!

best,

M.

[TooOld]

Red and Orange Sharpies , much thinner and easier to control than paint . Along with your choice of chrome or silver on the back if needed .

[NOBLNG]

I have made round ones by glueing a piece of broken lens to a chunk of sprue, chucking it in my drill and sanding it down to size.

[vamach1]

When there is no part and where typically I would just paint the area using the yellow or red Testors colors, I found some reflective bicycle tape and cut out the size to fit the recessed area and glued it in.  The cool thing is the material has a nice pattern and is truly reflective just like a rear car.

[BlackSheep214]

Great tips! I use Model Master Turn Signal Amber. I know they have it in the little square Testors bottles too.

[FredRPG]

I don’t have a photo handy but I often use colored stained glass paint. It goes on very clear, thick and glossy. Over chrome lights, like turn signals, it has a very realistic lens look.  There is a “frosted glass” version that works well for headlights. 

[Bugatti Fan]

A lot of viable alternatives have been suggested in this thread, and interesting to learn others approaches.

Never thought about using Sharpies. Does their coating stand up to handling? Or do you have to coat with a clear enamel or acrylic to resist wear?

Edited February 24, 2022 by Bugatti Fan

[Bills72sj]

18 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:

A lot of viable alternatives have been suggested in this thread, and interesting to learn others approaches.

Never thought about using Sharpies. Does their coating stand up to handling? Or do you have to coat with a clear enamel or acrylic to resist wear?

Sharpie in recessed areas would not be subject to rubbing off. I usually clear coat mine with the whole body so I cannot speak to the longevity.

[Bugatti Fan]

Thanks Bill. I would imagine the sprayed clear coat would do the trick to deal the finish.

[TooOld]

On 2/24/2022 at 4:32 AM, Bugatti Fan said:

A lot of viable alternatives have been suggested in this thread, and interesting to learn others approaches.

Never thought about using Sharpies. Does their coating stand up to handling? Or do you have to coat with a clear enamel or acrylic to resist wear?

Not sure what you mean by "handling" , I've been using sharpies for years and never had an issue with it rubbing off . Of course I've never picked up a model and rubbed the lights with my finger to test it . 

[Jordan White]

For Sharpies, I find you need to generally do a few coats for it to cover properly (make sure to let it dry between coats so the next coat doesn't wipe off the previous one). For amber, I find a base coat of yellow helps give it more of an amber look rather than just orange when you add the final orange coat.

[Bills72sj]

9 hours ago, Jordan White said:

For Sharpies, I find you need to generally do a few coats for it to cover properly (make sure to let it dry between coats so the next coat doesn't wipe off the previous one). For amber, I find a base coat of yellow helps give it more of an amber look rather than just orange when you add the final orange coat.

Assuming they still produce them, If you buy the really large variety pack of Ultra Fine Point Sharpies, they have one called Marigold which is right on amber in and of itself.

[Bugatti Fan]

I think I will stick with the Tamiya translucents after reading the latest posts on Sharpies.

Less fuss, one coat, job done, with a bit of reflective like BMF behind it where necessary.

[W Humble]

Good ideas, all!  However, as another 'veteran' modeler and I were discussing today, it seems too many amber front turn signals are 'turning up' on cars that originally didn't have them; the '57 Ford DelRio wagon in a recent article was one:  in the USA, anyhow, the amber lens wasn't instituted until about 1964 (if memory serves) or therabouts.  Of course, a few aftermarket lenses became available for older rides back then, but weren't common.  More often, drivers just put amber-tinted bulbs behind clear turn signal lenses for the effect.  As far as I know, there never was a 'retrofit law' passed to require amber lenses in front on 1/1 cars.  My restomod 240Z came with amber lenses, but I did it with Euro-spec clear lenses to keep the metallic silver paint popping.  Just sayin'...

[Bills72sj]

9 hours ago, W Humble said:

Good ideas, all!  However, as another 'veteran' modeler and I were discussing today, it seems too many amber front turn signals are 'turning up' on cars that originally didn't have them; the '57 Ford DelRio wagon in a recent article was one:  in the USA, anyhow, the amber lens wasn't instituted until about 1964 (if memory serves) or therabouts.  Of course, a few aftermarket lenses became available for older rides back then, but weren't common.  More often, drivers just put amber-tinted bulbs behind clear turn signal lenses for the effect.  As far as I know, there never was a 'retrofit law' passed to require amber lenses in front on 1/1 cars.  My restomod 240Z came with amber lenses, but I did it with Euro-spec clear lenses to keep the metallic silver paint popping.  Just sayin'...

On American cars they were federally mandated starting in 1968.

[W Humble]

Bill,

Funny I couldn't recall exactly when; I should have considered that my neato '65 Pontiac Tempest Custom HT (326/stick shift, etc.) didn't have amber.  At 76, stuff just sneaks by you!  Still: "People who don't get old don't have old people's problems"  my quote, btw!  Thx!!

Wick

[Bills72sj]

5 hours ago, W Humble said:

Bill,

Funny I couldn't recall exactly when; I should have considered that my neato '65 Pontiac Tempest Custom HT (326/stick shift, etc.) didn't have amber.  At 76, stuff just sneaks by you!  Still: "People who don't get old don't have old people's problems"  my quote, btw!  Thx!!

Wick

Don't feel bad, it was just one of those bits of trivia I happen to remember since my very 1st car was a 1968 Chevelle.

[W Humble]

Loved those A-bodies; all of which were basically Chevelles, after all.  No 'corporate engines' in those days, though; a Pontiac had a Pontiac, etc!!  When you looked up the wheel fitment however; all Chevrolet!  I put a '64 4-4-2 rear sway bar on my '65 Tempest; perfect fit. ( My AMT conversion from GTO Tempest has a bar, even now!)  Later, it went on my bro-in-laws '71 Malibu 1/1.  Now I can't even afford one!  My bro had a '69 that was on the Automobile Quarterly Chevelle poster for a while, former GM factory rep's car originally; monogrammed doors -- and amber signals. PS; I do have a '62 LeMans ragtop; nice Y-body; tight and solid, and cute.

[Bills72sj]

I know all about the interchangeability of that era car. I put a rear axle from a 1:1 65 El Camino under my work beater 72 Grand Prix years ago.

My present 1972 Grand Prix has 1-1/4" front bar from a WS6 Trans Am in front and an aftermarket 1" sway bar on the 12 bolt posi rear.

PM me with pics of your '62 Poncho.

[W Humble]

I have a footlocker full of 'Scotchcal' (and other brand) sign-makers vinyl, sticky-backed and press-on; works pretty well for lights, and other stuff.  Larger circles can be neatly cut by using gasket-die cutters from Harbor Freight.  BTW, cutting shirt-box plastic for big headlight lenses with the cutters comes out very nice if backed with a couple of layers of file-folder manilla card; it imparts a domed/convex effect!  3M: All scraps, including residue from sprint-car wing graphics, ctc. Metalflake and all.  I'd share... but it would be complex, I suppose.  I keep all my broken/replaced 1/1 car light plastic; a lot like tooth-brush material for making lights.  Lite-Brite pegs are great, too, for customs/rods.

I like the shiny 'jump-rings' from the craft store jewelry wall; lots more there for car modelers, of course!  Gees, lots of great ideas!!