BRBO 2022 - Peterbilt 351

[carsntrucks4you]

The first intention was to build a 281/351 with Holmes 750 wrecker body single axle truck. I als thought about a 281 single axle truck . . Now I'm not sure if I build a tractor with or without sleeper or even a flatbed truck. But on the flatbed truck you don't see anything of the Page & Page suspension.

Parts that I'm using for the model are:

Strato Models:

• Peterbilt 351
• Page & Page suspension
• American wheels and tires with hubs
• Rockwell worm drive axle

CTM :

• Peterbilt interior set (parts of it)
• Turnsignal lights 
• Taillights 

amt:

• Peterbilt 359 Wrecker
• Trailmobile Double

IMC

• Flatbed trailer

AITM:

• Hendrikson Rubber Block Suspension

 

Regarding the engine I'm not sure if I will open the hood and install a detailed engine. or not. In case of an opened hood I'm think about to use a Detroit Diesel 6V71. But this engine could be to small for a tractor unit. Otherwise I could use Detroit Diesel 8V71 or the Cummins from the wrecker less the turbo.  What is is a must is to lengthen the frame. The frame will be length by 1.58" behind the cab. Stay tuned

Edited March 15, 2022 by carsntrucks4you

[DRIPTROIT 71]

This will be good!! Looking forward to this one!!

I’m not sure what was available in the Peterbilt,  but 6-71s and 6v-71s were used in road tractors.

[carsntrucks4you]

Here three different options for my 351. I had added 1.772" to the frame

Option 1: Sleeper (from Movin On KW)

Option 2: Day cab

Option 3: Flatbed (Kit from The Modelfactory - No longer in business)

My preference is option 3, although the Page & Page suspension is then not visible. Other wise I could use a Hendrikson Rubber Block suspension with  some Rockwell Worm drive axles. instead. Let me think about 

Edited February 21, 2022 by carsntrucks4you

[DRIPTROIT 71]

I would go with the flatbed and send the Page and Page to me.?

[carsntrucks4you]

7 hours ago, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

I would go with the flatbed and send the Page and Page to me.?

Maybe ? if I get a second one

[leafsprings]

You are building one of my favorites, appears to be an early 60's version. Most of these resins are curbside, but it would be nice if the hood panels opened up. A Cummins ( NH-250 shown below-note non turbo center dump exhaust manifold) would be a much more common site in this type of vehicle. Great choice on lengthening the frame, IMO, most conventional frames in most kits are too short for western trucks. Were you thinking of a flatbed  truck with short flatbed trailer behind it?

Edited December 25, 2022 by leafsprings

[carsntrucks4you]

2 hours ago, leafsprings said:

You are building one of my favorites, appears to be an early 60's version. Most of these resins are curbside, but it would be nice if the hood panels opened up. A Cummins would be a much more common site in this type of vehicle. Great choice on lengthening the frame, IMO, most conventional frames in most kits are too short for western trucks. Were you thinking of a flatbed  truck with short flatbed trailer behind it?

I had not decide yet if I use the DD 6V71 or a Cummins NH250.  If I could get a P&H or Scott engine in 1/25 these would be my favorite engines for a truck from the late 50's / early 60's.  The longer frame looks better even without a sleeper. But I want to do the Flatbed truck and yes I'm going to build a 2 axle flatbed trailer like in this picture from Tim Ahlborn

Edited February 22, 2022 by carsntrucks4you

[carsntrucks4you]

The Pete will be a flatbed truck. I rear suspension will be a rubber block with Rockwell worm drive axle.

Edited February 22, 2022 by carsntrucks4you

[leafsprings]

Very nice work on the period looking rounded fender flatbed, looks old school. Wheels and suspension really set off the vintage look!

[carsntrucks4you]

1 hour ago, leafsprings said:

Very nice work on the period looking rounded fender flatbed, looks old school. Wheels and suspension really set off the vintage look!

Thanks

[gotnitro?]

Nice old school theme 

[carsntrucks4you]

Last crossmember has to be relocated it interferes with the last axle. Rear of frame had been extended with 3d printed frame rails like in the middle. The braces in the cab will be removed after painting.

[Dutzie]

Can’t wait to see more. 

[carsntrucks4you]

Working on the front axle, it is now manoeuvrable. 

 

[Gary Chastain]

Question, did you use an axle that was molded in pieces, or did you cut apart a fully molded axle? I have heard of guys cutting apart axles to give them the ability to turn. 

[carsntrucks4you]

29 minutes ago, Gary Chastain said:

Question, did you use an axle that was molded in pieces, or did you cut apart a fully molded axle? I have heard of guys cutting apart axles to give them the ability to turn. 

The one from the amt Peterbilt trucks are solid. I had to cut it into pieces and reassembly it so that it could move

 

[Gary Chastain]

2 minutes ago, carsntrucks4you said:

The one from the amt Peterbilt trucks are solid. I had to cut it into pieces and reassembly it so that it could move

 

Sorry for more question, but how did you cut it apart(what tool) and how do you make up for the saw curf (thickness of cut)?

[carsntrucks4you]

14 hours ago, Gary Chastain said:

Sorry for more question, but how did you cut it apart(what tool) and how do you make up for the saw curf (thickness of cut)?

No problem with that.

Here a little How-To for a Ford C600 steering. On other truck models the steering setup looks different. They  have different drag links, pitman arms or tie-rods, but the principal of drilling and cutting is the same.

Tools:

fine saw (approx. 0.002" blade, not bigger. Otherwise you had to add some shims to the king pin)

0.03" drill (or 0.04 or 0,02, depending on size of parts)

Hand drilling unit

t

Material:

0,03" copper or brass wire

Steps:

1. Drill two 0.03 " holes in the axle where usually the king pin are located

2. Make cut through the king pin area to separate spindle from axle

3. Drill two holes through tie-rod

4. Cut through tie-rod

 

5. Drill holes through drag link and pitman arm.

6.  Make cuts through draglink. Keep in mind that those cuts are nearly in the middle of the part. Check the width

7. Add wire to the holes and check mobility of the system. 

8. Installation on truck frame

Thats all. I hope this helps a bit. You have to drill first and then do the cutting. 

If you are lazy and want to spent some money buy movable die-cast axles either from CTM, KFS or Modellers Resource. Unfortunately they are mostly in 1/24 scale, but the Modellers Resource axle work also for 1/25 scale. 

 

Edited February 26, 2022 by carsntrucks4you

[doorsovdoon]

I'm liking the work on the bed, and the working steering is awesome. Very nice.

[tbill]

Great looking work on this, love the flatbed look.

[carsntrucks4you]

Here the first touch of paint. Flatbed frame will be also painted in US Navy Blue from Zero Paints.

Edited March 8, 2022 by carsntrucks4you

[DRIPTROIT 71]

Man!! That looks good!!! I like the paint job!!

[Mopar - D]

Awesome building Michael! Thanks for sharing your step by step on how you cut and pin the front steering axle. 

[carsntrucks4you]

6 hours ago, Mopar - D said:

Awesome building Michael! Thanks for sharing your step by step on how you cut and pin the front steering axle. 

My pleasure 

[carsntrucks4you]

Continuing with the interior