What type of "PAPER" do you use to mask off your projects

[69NovaYenko]

I was wondering what type of "PAPER" do you guys & gals use to mask off your projects. Dollar wise it isn't practical to wrap the ENTIRE body in Tamiya tape.

Edited April 17, 2022 by 69NovaYenko

[Ace-Garageguy]

Usually, just whatever I have lying around...depending on how critical the masking is.

Brown wrapping paper as apparently shown above, leftover shelf paper, newspaper, junk mail, clean plastic wrap from packaging, and I usually have a 12" roll of real-car body-shop masking paper in stock if it's something I really need to trust completely.

[Sandboarder]

An old box, instruction booklet, the plastic bags the kit came in, anything I have lying around and don’t need really. 
 

The tape does the hard work so the paper isn’t important so long as it doesn’t cause the tape to lift.

[69NovaYenko]

1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Usually, just whatever I have lying around...depending on how critical the masking is.

Brown wrapping paper as apparently shown above, leftover shelf paper, newspaper, junk mail, clean plastic wrap from packaging, and I usually have a 12" roll of real-car body-shop masking paper in stock if it's something I really need to trust completely.

You mentioned newspaper. Back in the day newspapers were Ok...however the ink they are using to print newspapers today appears to leave its ink on the model...not to mention how challenging it to find a newspaper  now-a-days in a digital world. I had to totally strip two bodies because of news print ink bleed through. Hence this is why i posed this question.

Edited April 13, 2022 by 69NovaYenko

[espo]

I still use tape. I'll do all the edges and detail taping with the Tamiya tape and use the blue stuff that you would use to mask the trim when painting in your home. Depending on the type of paper used some will actually absorb paint and can in some instances allow some to pass through to the protected surface. Taping off and engine compartment can use up a lot of tape as well, but I would rather spend some money on the extra tape than have to go back and redo other finished surfaces. I guess it's just how much your time is worth to maintain a finish. 

[89AKurt]

I use drafting sketch paper, comes in a roll, since I still draw with the ancient method of graphite on velum, I have lots of it.  It's a bit transluscent, which is helpful, and no ink.

[Bainford]

29 minutes ago, espo said:

I still use tape. I'll do all the edges and detail taping with the Tamiya tape and use the blue stuff that you would use to mask the trim when painting in your home. Depending on the type of paper used some will actually absorb paint and can in some instances allow some to pass through to the protected surface. Taping off and engine compartment can use up a lot of tape as well, but I would rather spend some money on the extra tape than have to go back and redo other finished surfaces. I guess it's just how much your time is worth to maintain a finish. 

My method as well. After doing the critical masking with Tamiya, I use cheap, 2 inch hardware store masking tape for the rest.

[Ace-Garageguy]

1 hour ago, 69NovaYenko said:

You mentioned newspaper. Back in the day newspapers were Ok...however the ink they are using to print newspapers today appears to leave its ink on the model...

Yeah, but I learned early on (when I used to use newspaper to mask real cars, 50+ years back) to never let masking material touch any critical surface unless it was specifically made to resist solvents.

That's a ticking bomb for people who use "cheap hardware store tape" too, as that garbage is generally made to withstand water-base latex and not much else.

They'll learn when all the adhesive transfers to the model, and/or the tape is firmly glued to the surface.

The inexpensive "store brand" body-shop masking paper in 12-inch wide rolls, and genuine real-car masking tape, is the best insurance you can get...available at any body-shop supply outlet.

Considering what a royal PITA it is to strip a bodged paint job and re-do everything, it's money very well spent.

EDIT: At least if you place any value on your time.  

 

Edited April 13, 2022 by Ace-Garageguy

[Hi-Po]

I generally use 20 lb copy/printer paper.  I bought a ream (500 sheets) several years back and I still have plenty left to get me through to the end of my model building years.

Edited April 13, 2022 by Hi-Po
Added more information.

[cobraman]

After i use a quality fine asking tape on the parting line I use blue masking for the next layer. After that I use Press and Seal to cover the balance of the body. A lot of guys say Press and Seal sucks but i have used it several times and never had an issue. To each his own I guess.

[Mark]

For complicated/goofy shapes, I have used cheap aluminum foil.  After the paint dries, I suppose it might even be reusable, but I've never tried that.

[peteski]

1 hour ago, cobraman said:

After i use a quality fine asking tape on the parting line I use blue masking for the next layer. After that I use Press and Seal to cover the balance of the body. A lot of guys say Press and Seal sucks but i have used it several times and never had an issue. To each his own I guess.

Yea, that seemed like a good idea when  I heard  about it. I only used that stuff once and never again!  The plastic foil has texture and when it is peeled off the model, the edges of the bumps in the foll left some adhesive on the model. It was a real paint to clean off.  Once burned, twice shy. I have plenty of alternatives not  needing Press-n-Seal.

[cobraman]

Weird, I have used it several times and will continue as long as I keep getting the results that I have been getting. Different strokes for different folks I guess.

[StevenGuthmiller]

On 4/13/2022 at 7:19 AM, 69NovaYenko said:

I was wondering what type of "PAPER" do you guys & gals use to mask off your projects. Dollar wise it isn't practical to wrap the ENTIRE body in Tamiya tape.

The paper pictured is painters "Masking Paper" available in the paint section of any home improvement or hardware store, or online of course.

It comes in all different widths and lengths, but a standard size roll of 9" x 180 feet will cost you somewhere in the neighborhood of $2.00 or $3.00.

Very inexpensive, and enough to last you a very long time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[yh70]

 Blue shop towels. i get them by the box so they are used for other things also..they not but $13 for 200 on Amazon . free shipping if u got Prime ..

[ClassicDarts]

I guess it really doesn't matter what you use for the most part... as long as the tape used for the masking lines is good.

I'm a novice at best, but i've used cut-open ziploc bags to cover the majority of the body and had no problem.

[Bills72sj]

I have never used paper. I use 2" wide genuine blue 3M masking tape and ziplock bags. Plastic bags air virtually air tight, do not care about paint and have no adhesives.

[peteski]

Be careful using paper towels (or other porous or absorbent materials).  The paint solvents from the paint you are spraying can permeate the paper towel and possibly affect the dry paint in the masked areas.

[StevenGuthmiller]

58 minutes ago, peteski said:

Be careful using paper towels (or other porous or absorbent materials).  The paint solvents from the paint you are spraying can permeate the paper towel and possibly affect the dry paint in the masked areas.

I would think that plastics could possibly be a problem as well.

Maybe I’m wrong but I would be a little reluctant to spray a hot lacquer over a thin plastic bag.

It would be just my luck to wind up with plastic goo stuck down all over my treasured model body.

I think I’ll stick with paper.

By the way, it’s been many years ago, but I have had the experience of news print transferred onto a paint job.

 

 

Steve

[Sandboarder]

8 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Maybe I’m wrong but I would be a little reluctant to spray a hot lacquer over a thin plastic bag.

Ive have done this before but the mindset I had was to paint the model and the tape. Only overspray went on the bag.

 

I think if your using paper or something as a mask. You should have adequate masking tape before the paper so only overspray hits the paper. You can’t really mask an area off and then have a heavy hand on your paint job as well. 

 

BTW welcome back Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Sandboarder said:

BTW welcome back Steve

 

Just lurking.

Came across this post using some photos of one of my projects, so I thought the OP might want my 2 cents.

 

 

 

Steve

[69NovaYenko]

14 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

 

Just lurking.

Came across this post using some photos of one of my projects, so I thought the OP might want my 2 cents.

 

 

 

Steve

By all means please give us your 2 cents . I like the way you masked off the body.

[StevenGuthmiller]

15 minutes ago, 69NovaYenko said:

By all means please give us your 2 cents . I like the way you masked off the body.

I mask the paint edges with Tamiya tape first.

Then I use the masking paper to to cover as much of the remainder of the body as possible.

Finally, I tape the edges of the paper down with blue painter’s tape and regular masking tape, but I do my best  to do it in a way so that there is as little of those tapes touching the painted surface as possible.

I do this to avoid any of the problems that can occur with garden variety masking tapes, such as pulling up paint or leaving adhesive or tape imprints behind.

I use masking paper not because I want to save money on tape, but because I’ve had way too many bad outcomes with using it on my painted surfaces and I want as little tape touching the paint as possible.

 

 

Steve

[deuces wild]

Thoughts on green "frog" tape anyone????.....?

[cheyenne93]

I save the craft paper that allot of people use for packing merchandise in when they ship it.