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Extreme Hot Rod: Channeled, Z'ed Chassis, No Chop, Thickstun Flatty: Extensive Photos plus component/build shots


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Posted (edited)

I posted a couple of images of this project about a year and a half ago, now I want to show it here in detail.   

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This was a summer/fall 2020 project, showing an extreme Z'ed frame and a radically channeled frame but unchopped 1931 Model A Tudor sedan body. The engine is a flathead Ford with the characteristic Thickstun boat racing cylinder head covers and air cleaner. Many of the engine parts came from Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland.

This was originally in process as a feature article for the other model magazine, but the mag was shuttered before it could be published. It eventually surfaced as an in-depth 8-page how-to with full illustration of the construction steps in the May 2021 issue of Fine Scale Modeler magazine.

If you wish to build a similar scale hot rod of your own, a look at the following 21 pictures and captions will tell you much of what you need to know.  However, this was by no means an easy project to complete.  If you need more specific, step by step build instructions, that May 2021 back issue is probably still available at Kalmbach's web site.  So....with no further ado....

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These 2 images illustrate the Extreme Z'ed frame and fully channeled body positioning.

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Note the single Model A tailamp....  Those tall'n'narrow whitewall slicks are from a Galaxie Limited reissue of one of the old, super simple Monogram rail dragster kits.  Wheels are, IIRC, the wires and caps from Replica and Miniatures of Maryland.  Added tall rear outer rims were cut from a sidemount spare tire carrier from the MPC 1932 Chrysler Gangbuster kits.  

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The front tires are from the AMT-Ertl 1934 Ford Five Window Coupe kit.... 

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The sectioned 1932 Ford grille shell and horizontal grille bars came from Model Car Garage.

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Note the green-tinted acetate windows.  

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The next few images show some of the building process. Here you can see the Revell Model A Hot Rod kits Model A frame, after the Z'ed operation behind the front cross member and the added Z'ing at the rear frame rail kickup....

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The fully detailed and wired engine, prior to installation. Note the fuel pump gas bowl, a part of the fuel pump assembly from Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland.  The gas bowl is molded in clear resin and was painted with Tamiya Clear Orange to look like Gasoline.  R&M of Md. also supplied the Thickstun cylinder head covers, while the hi-riser intake and carbs came from Model Car Garage if memory serves me correctly.

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The front wheelbase was extended forward and ride height lowered by mounting the leaf springs to the radius rods instead of atop the axle itself.

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The transverse leaf/Halibrand Quick Change rear end layout was based on parts from the Revell Model A Tudor sedan, the Revell Model A Hot Rod kits, and Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland.

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The completed chassis and drivetrain awaiting final assembly.

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The interior includes parts from the "Skeleton Interior" option in the Revell 1930 Model A Five Window Coupe kit, real leather seat bottom pads, and a stained real wood floorboard.

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Underneath you can see portions of the Revell 1930 Model A Five Window Coupe floorboard, plus the bottom side of the black-stained real wood tonneau cover over the rear suspension. A fuel tank was added below the tonneau cover before final assembly.

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The completed interior and engine, alongside the bare frame and partially completed body assembly....

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The major component assemblies,, now completed and awaiting final assembly. 

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The completed underside.  Look closely and you might be able to see the gas tank tucked up above the rear axle assembly.  

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A closeup of the engine with its Thickstun marine cylinder head covers and dual carbs air cleaner. Yes, everything fits. Just barely....   Those zoomie exhausts are from the Replicas and Miniatures conversion kit to backdate the Revell Hemi Hydro back to the original and very rare 1963 "Show and Go" V-drive boat kit.  

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The paint was Black Gold House of Kolors Candy Organic Green over a flat black base, interspersed with HOK Clear with multicolored flakes, overcoated with polished and rubbed out Gloss Clear.  Unfortunately, these HOK aerosols are no longer offered by Black Gold.  

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One reason I am posting these images here and at this time is that this model shares quite a bit of thematic synergy with an all-new 1/1 scale 1930 Model A Tudor featured in the May 2022 issue of Modern Rodding.  That's the new 1/1 scale magazine edited and published by much of the team from Street Rodder after that title was killed in December 2019 by the then owners of that and 18 other auto enthusiast titles that met a similar fate on that very dark day.

The Modern Rodding article, on pages 54-60, show a similarly channeled and flathead powered Tudor owned by Tim Garner. While both that car and this model share much in common, that car is also chopped unlike mine, and he runs the modern "salt flats" style Halibrand mags instead of the whitewall/wires on my car.  It's definitely worth checking out if you like this type of 1/1 scale hot rod. 

OK, if you've waded through all of this and are still here, just wanted to say "thanks for your attention" and I hope you like the results, and maybe one or two of you are tempted to try something similar but with your own touches and creative thoughts. I'll do my best to answer any questions.  And best regards all....TIM 

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Edited by tim boyd
  • Like 14
Posted (edited)

Great to see you building in this style. The result is Too Cool! ?? And I've always wanted to do an uber-hip Trad flatty like that with those RepMin parts. Love seeing one detailed out like this. Looks terrific. And if I have identified them correctly, those are AMT '34 Ford Coupe skinny whitewalls you used at the front. They've become my go-to favorites for this style of rod.

I've wanted to build something like this for some time now. I really like the look of the Revell Tudor, but I want to do one with a chopped top, which I decided would require gluing it all up into one unit and strengthening the A-pillar and seams before doing the chop. Many moons ago I tried my hand at one but landed up wiping out the belt line molding during the cleanup operation. Since these Revellogram '29/'30 kits are basic parts kits for my hot rod builds I have no lack of additional body shells. Your nifty build inspires me to have another bite at the apple, LOL.

Edited by Bernard Kron
Posted
47 minutes ago, rrb124@sbcglobal.net said:

Those large diameter headlights mean business!

What is the source for those?

Robert....I believe that those are the largest of the three sizes of headlamps that come in all of the recently tooled Revell Model A Hot Rod kits.  For some reason, painting them black seems to make them look bigger, at least to my eyes....

Best...TIM 

Posted

Okay, thank you. I'll check out my kits for the largest diameter lights. I'm on the hunt for the largest. I agree, the black paint does make them appear larger. I think I saw some 1930 Cadillac lights and they were very large and cool.

Posted

Thank you for the Indepth description of the build. Just looking at the beautiful looking finished model the information helps to better appreciate what all was done.  

Posted
19 hours ago, Bernard Kron said:

I've wanted to build something like this for some time now. I really like the look of the Revell Tudor, but I want to do one with a chopped top, which I decided would require gluing it all up into one unit and strengthening the A-pillar and seams before doing the chop. Many moons ago I tried my hand at one but landed up wiping out the belt line molding during the cleanup operation. Since these Revellogram '29/'30 kits are basic parts kits for my hot rod builds I have no lack of additional body shells. Your nifty build inspires me to have another bite at the apple, LOL.

Bernard, knowing your build style and creativity from your past work, I personally would love to see what you come up with on the project you describe!  

Posted

Thanks guys for all the comments.   Glad you appreciated the little details....I love adding these to model projects.....and I agree, they do add character and flavor to these builds.  

Very best all....TB  

 

Posted

Very nicely done Tim, it represents a lot of work to get it to look as nice as it does, excellent attention to detail on all the sub assemblies, it shows in the finished model.

Posted (edited)

For a really interesting comparo to my build, check out this model by Dave Sproul....TB

 

Edited by tim boyd
  • Like 1
Posted

Gotta put in my two cents. Great job!  i"m trying to build a dragcar and see this. I have a 32 _3, 29 roadster, 29 pu. wife got me a buttload R_M parrts 1 1/2 yrs for bd.

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