evilone Posted January 19, 2009 Posted January 19, 2009 Well im doing a 359 for the NNL West and its going to be lowered.So i need a how to for this thing.I want to tuck the wheels on it but still look functional.Any help would be good especially if you got pics.
Corvette.Jeff Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 (edited) i tried it with mine and failed miserably, but you have more experience then me :)one thing i did was bend the rear axles up(where the air bags connect to the axle itself) and on the front i chopped the springs off and cut em down a little then glued em back on(thats the part that failed) it got it to sit lower but one thing you have to remember is the fender wells aren't deep so you may have to raise them up on the hood higher. if you wanted the body to sit lower you could just cut out part of the frame(careful the fram is skinny but you probably already knew that) Edited January 20, 2009 by ThatOneEmoKid
LDO Posted January 21, 2009 Posted January 21, 2009 (edited) Why not just add big C-sections to the frame? This: _________ _______________________ / _______ \ / ____________________ \ ________/ / \ \______________/ / \ \ _________ _________/ \________________/ \___________ Edit. Wow. That didn't work at all. Maybe someone who knows what I'm saying and how to make it show up can help. Instead of: ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Edited January 21, 2009 by LDO
LDO Posted January 21, 2009 Posted January 21, 2009 Here's a C-section on an S-10 frame. Just do this front and rear.
James W Posted January 21, 2009 Posted January 21, 2009 (edited) not to but in or sound any more stupid than I am buuuuuuut, yal just confused me. You're calling it a C-section but to me it looks a lot like what I've always called "Z"-ing. are they one and the same, or is there some subtle difference that I'm not seeing? (Sorry to step on your thread Evil, just looking for clarification 'fore I gets too confuzzled) If you look at the frame on the S10, over the axle looks like a turned down "C" A "Z" is very like a "C" but one end is left open and the shape is more like a "Z". The back of this pickup frame returns to the original line to match the back of the bed. If you are doing the end of a frame, it becomes a "Z" Edited January 21, 2009 by James W
Shooner Posted January 21, 2009 Posted January 21, 2009 on the steers cut off the blocks between the leafs and axle. this will lower it a bit, you can also modify the axle by making the spindles higher. For the drives cut the airbags and the support for the torsion bar. The bags on the Low leaf suspension are smaller that what is on the model.Don't cut too much at the start, take your time and get things where you want them to be. Again on the steer axle you can bash 2 front axles to make the spindles sit higher and even out the stance. That is my 2 bits. If you need some pic's or guide lines check out the Eaton website, they have fairly good parts drawings. I will post a link tomorrow when I'm at work and am on the site.
monkeyclaw Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 Firstly; Which pete kit? The most common way to "lower" a big rig is actually very simple; Try mounting the axles to the TOP side of the springs in front (between the sping and frame rail; and also mount the drive axles on TOP of the mounts, rather then the bottom side , like specified in most bigrig kit instructions....In most cases this will give you at least a 6" drop....if you want to go further; you can grind down the mounting pads on the springs and mounts (where they mount to the frame rails) and simply slide them UP to the yop of the frame rails....this will usually get you another 4"-6" of drop; without a bunch of cutting and hacking; and allow you to keep nice straight frame rails.....I hope this helps......matt
LDO Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 Matt- What in the wide, wide world of sports? Is that a diesel LSR?
monkeyclaw Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 Lee; No LSR....Just a radical custom Peterbilt....which is my current W.I.P. I always seem to be building stuff which requires mountains of reference data and photos....but for a "break" I decided to undertake a little styling exercise. See if i could do a full on custom truck; without the use of fillers....So far it is all plastic....only a bit of glazing putty for guide coats on the sleeper.... I know it's FUNKY; but when it's done I think it will come "together" nicely...and i have to say the last week doing this build up has been quite fun for me...Matt
MR BIGGS Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 Take the axel and then run the axel in between the springs and frame. You will have to heat the springs to meet the axel next to the frame or just put a lowering block in the space between the spring and axel. If you want detail, make 4 u-bolts with wire and nuts and a drop plate like I did on mine. Good luck.
evilone Posted January 26, 2009 Author Posted January 26, 2009 Take the axel and then run the axel in between the springs and frame. You will have to heat the springs to meet the axel next to the frame or just put a lowering block in the space between the spring and axel. If you want detail, make 4 u-bolts with wire and nuts and a drop plate like I did on mine. Good luck. How did you do the back?dose yours still have the bags on it?
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