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To my mind the L-700 is a funky enough looking that it would be  good as a customized car hauler.  The directions for this kit are terrible. The parts trees have no numbers for the parts. The other way I’ve seen this done is a picture of each tree is used and the parts numbered there. Maybe the original release was better. But now it’s search through all to find what you need.
To lower the stance a 3” drop axel was made.l worried about clearance but it seems to be Okay, promise not to hit any big bumps. I think I can get it a little lower by shaving the spring perches but may have to move the axel back by it’s own width. To accommodate a car bed the frame needs some stretching. That will be my next step. The kit is 1:25 so I’ll eventually build the 40 Ford that came with the kit as my built kits are all 1:24.  Anyway I’m beginning to start to proceed.

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Made some progress.  I’d be further along but as you can see from the fuel tank a lot of time is spent filling and sanding.The kit’s flatbed comes in two sections and I shortened the rear one by 1 1/2” to be  what cars would need. The rear duels are loose to see how much the frame needs to be extended. I’m thinking about 2 1/4”. It will also need to be Zd to allow suspension. For the front axel the spring perches we’re reduced a scale 1” and with the new axel it’s as low as can be done without extensive work. I’m a big fan of pinning parts together. Nothing to fancy just straight pins cut to length. BDC40ACF-CE9E-4694-A94A-3CD662A24DF3.thumb.jpeg.8cf1845dcf9c547127df4271ea2a1f47.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think I have the frame and axels pretty well figured out.

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469D821A-A3F8-4D2B-A9B6-B68DDDFEECDB.thumb.jpeg.050d7523109a7aa09c995e60d3e99c03.jpegNow to decide on how to do the chop. I think there will need to be 2 left to right cuts. One for the door and the other for the slope at the rear. I should get by with just one cut front to back. There will also need to be a vertical cut where the side curves to the back.

 

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Edited by slownlow
Miss spelled word
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15 minutes ago, slownlow said:

Now to decide on how to do the chop. I think there will need to be 2 left to right cuts. One for the door and the other for the slope at the rear. I should get by with just one cut front to back. There will also need to be a vertical cut where the side curves to the back.

before you start chopping, cut a piece of card cut to the size the new window will be and its much easier to get both sides square. no need to measure evrytime, just try the window template and you'll save a load of time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I’ve made some good progress on the chop. It’s 3/16” which is about 4” 1:1

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I was able to cheat the front half of the roof by cutting a relief at the base of the A pillars and then just making a cut at the center and wedging it open a bit. The doors added some complications and I’m thinking about glueing them in place. I’d like to leave them operable but the big windscreen will offer a good view of it inside. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

We’ll the cab has reached the “fill, sand, prime, repeat “ stage. I do like the overall look of it and am debating adding some sort of sun visor. The front wheel mud flaps did need to be moved back a bit but they still clear the fuel tanks when they are set in. Now onto drive train and more flat bed work.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The ramps that came with the kit are going to cause any car loaded to high center so the bed will need to tilt. As I wracked my brain for a hinge the door system came to mind. Pretty simple the hardest part is getting the left and right bends the same. Guides are also needed to keep the bed centered on the frame. Now to work out piston(s) to raise and lower.
 A couple of storage bins for the operator to stash stuff are added too.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Making some good progress. Got the wood laid down on the back. I found good old contact cement like used on Formica counter tops worked great. Then a winch was imagineered using the barrel of a pall point pen, some old fishing line and a hook made from a straight pin. The hydraulic piston is 3/16 hollow tube with a 1/8 rod inside. Not sure how other folks do it but to  limit the travel I cut a slot in the tube and drilled a pin in the rod. 
  As I was working things out the back I grabbed an old 32 sedan hot rod I did several years ago. I liked the look so well I decided to duplicate the paint scheme and make them a pair. 
The kit’s doors were such a horrible fit I just glued them shut. Normally on a customs I like to deck them, no handles, script, ornaments.  But this truck is just too iconic to remove that stuff. The mirrors were the biggest challenge because of the chop and all the braces neede to be pinned. 
Anyway, it’s just getting down to adding the shiny bits  

 

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