Paint wrinkling question? Zero paints.

[Dpate]

So I'm working on my Aoshima Toyota 2000GT and working on the body first.  So did the usual stuff cleaned all imperfections etc and washed body the best you can using basic dawn dish soap.  After a good dry and compressed air dry went to priming using Mr. surfacer(Which zero paints is compatible with) after that wet sanded with 3000grit from 3m.  Next day mixed up zero paints paint really good with badger paint mixer than strained into PS290 color cup & pressure set to bout 17-18.  Dusted model off with tamiya brush, and than started laying paint light coat, and than around the 3rd coat this is when i noticed the wrinkling on roof and hood.  So i stopped painting and let it dry and tried to sand it out to no avail with 3000grit.  So after looking over the body i noticed a issue on the bottom i missed so I'm glad this happened cause it gave me an excuse to strip the primer and paint which took no time at all 20 mins i was back to bare white plastic.  

I'll include a picture that is not mine because i did not think much to take a picture of the body, but luckily i was able to find a good pic of said issue.  From what I've read it could be 1 of 2 things and that is 1. Chemical reaction 2. Not enough dry time between coats.  Zero paints recommends 5-10 mins between coats and i def was only waiting like 2-3 mins.  I doubt it was a chemical reaction. Also this only happened a little on the roof and about 2 ich surface around the middle of the hood. Sides and back of body was perfectly fine.  Maybe the area's this happened at wasn't dry enough before i hit the next coat? Like the whole body didn't dry evenly and i rushed the next coat and boom wrinkling.

Also i had forgot to wash the body after sanding and today when i starting painting and after everything was said and done i forgot i didn't wash the body after 3000grit sanding primer the previous day.  Not sure if the dust particles from the primer caused a reaction? This has me very puzzled.  

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

Your photo looks like classic enamel wrinkling when additional coats were applied ignoring the "recoat window" (as in: rushing things).

But I'm totally unfamiliar with the materials you're using.

[Nacho Z]

I have had basically the same issue with Zero. To keep this very brief, I ended up setting a timer for 10 minutes between coats. Very thin coats at that. I also found that some colors were hotter than others. My biggest difference in making things better was waiting at least 10 minutes between light coats.

[Dpate]

1 hour ago, Nacho Z said:

I have had basically the same issue with Zero. To keep this very brief, I ended up setting a timer for 10 minutes between coats. Very thin coats at that. I also found that some colors were hotter than others. My biggest difference in making things better was waiting at least 10 minutes between light coats.

Thank you! 

[Matt Bacon]

Yep… that’s classic behaviour of Zero Base coats sprayed too thick. In the picture, I think it’s run and gathered at the edge of the panel rather than being laid on too thick overall. Zero base coats are meant to be matt. You don’t need super light coats, but several speedy once-overs about 5 minutes apart, until the colour stops changing. Don’t try to get an even colour density on the first or even second coat. If it looks at all shiny, stop and move on. If it looks wet, you’re likely to get the effect above. It’s the clear coat that gives Zero its shine (and usually transforms the colour to really “pop” as well)…

Best,

M.

[Dpate]

9 hours ago, Matt Bacon said:

Yep… that’s classic behaviour of Zero Base coats sprayed too thick. In the picture, I think it’s run and gathered at the edge of the panel rather than being laid on too thick overall. Zero base coats are meant to be matt. You don’t need super light coats, but several speedy once-overs about 5 minutes apart, until the colour stops changing. Don’t try to get an even colour density on the first or even second coat. If it looks at all shiny, stop and move on. If it looks wet, you’re likely to get the effect above. It’s the clear coat that gives Zero its shine (and usually transforms the colour to really “pop” as well)…

Best,

M.

Yeah that picture is of a real car it just has the wrinkling that i encountered lol.  I'm so use to scale finishes and gravity colors automotive paints so i sprayed zero the same way which was light coats.  I think my issue was not waiting long enough between coats.  It's just weird it happened a little on the roof and good bit on the hood.  Guess not waiting long enough and not going lighter on those area's i suppose.  I even sprayed the zero paints on bare plastic on a test kit and it didn't affect it at all so it can't be that hot of a paint least the color I'm using.  I was using the PS290 .5 needle and it can put out some paint with it's fan nozzle even at 18PSI, but i guess i wasn't light enough on the trigger lol.

So i guess light speedy passes and 10 mins between coats until the color is there? 

[Matt Bacon]

@Dpate All I know is here:

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956647-matts-tips-for-painting-cars/

I’m a big fan of Zero Paints, for the right models, but they do need a specific technique…

best,

M.