photo etched parts

[gary jackson]

what do you guys use to remove parts from the tree i tried xacto knife with new blade  hard to cut

[Ace-Garageguy]

A very stiff blade will work on soft metal like brass and aluminum.

For harder metals, you'll need wee nippers with hardened jaws, and a very fine diamond file to remove nibs on hard material.

 

Edited October 21, 2022 by Ace-Garageguy

[yh70]

this is what i use..do ck around as u may find them at a cheaper  price...https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwikoIjfmfD6AhWnJkwKHQ6cD2EYABAVGgJvYQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESbOD2zpdUMiErKSbBL7lkaNUTdRCKz4vxqiNWeroQOypqjduH4t4b0frwFGQrk3I1q-FF-4am2NhleNLRkarlHf8exqlpP9arhA4qAc29sFrbATYYFeLu_B0YS9a8Bl7XMPwHiWtgyIG_C7R07g&sig=AOD64_0GkWciDgPUW76EDIjLCam3WgAd0g&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjP5f7emfD6AhW1kGoFHegDAw

 

 

Edited October 21, 2022 by yh70

[Dpate]

What are you cutting the photoetch on? Fresh blade should easily pop a photoetch part loose doesn't take that much force.  I use a small glass cutting mat that i got from hobby lobby to cut photoetch parts off, and than photoetch scissors to trim the rest, and than tamiya photoetch file if needed.  Depending on the photoetch I'll use just the scissors to cut the part off cause they fit properly. Don't cut decals or try and cut photoetch parts off on a self healing mat or any mat.  The cut on the decals wont be as smooth, and you could damage the photoetch parts as well. 

[slusher]

I have always used finger nail clippers and fie off the bur   I may look into a set of photoetch scissors...

[Perspect Scale Modelworks]

As Dpate said, a piece of glass is best if using a blade to cut the piece. I put the photo etch on the sticky side of a piece of tape so the cut piece doesn't go flying, never to be seen again.

[Dpate]

3 hours ago, Perspective Customs said:

I put the photo etch on the sticky side of a piece of tape so the cut piece doesn't go flying, never to be seen again.

Yeah i forgot to mention that.  That's a must for small parts lol.

[Can-Con]

On 10/20/2022 at 9:13 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

 

you'll need wee nippers with hardened jaws, 

That's very hard to find these days. Most wee nippers are total snowflakes, not like when we were wee nippers.

But it's not their fault, it's their parents that made them that way.

Edited October 22, 2022 by Can-Con

[Mike 1017]

I have one of these and it works great. Make sure you use the blade that is recommended. It also prevents the parts tree from bending, twisting, and ruining the rest of the tree.

Photo etch cutters VS Small Company tool                                                                                 

Good luck                                                                                                                                       Mike

[Mike 1017]

Just now, Mike 1017 said:

I have one of these and it works great. Make sure you use the blade that is recommended. It also prevents the parts tree from bending, twisting, and ruining the rest of the tree.

Photo etch cutters VS Small Company tool                                                                                 

Good luck                                                                                                                                       Mike

SMS016 Photo Etch Cut Off Set - Large – The Small Shop

[TransAmMike]

So since the Thread is just entitled "photo etched parts" how about we get off the cutting topic and discuss gluing the parts. 

I have photo etch emblems to install onto the body of my current project.

What say you?

[Can-Con]

33 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

So since the Thread is just entitled "photo etched parts" how about we get off the cutting topic and discuss gluing the parts. 

I have photo etch emblems to install onto the body of my current project.

What say you?

I scuff up the back of the emblems with some fine sandpaper before taking them off the fret and attach them with a drop of Tamiya clear acrylic thinned 50/50 with rubbing alcohol. 

After this sits a few hours [or days] I brush a bit more of the thinned clear over the entire emblem to seal it to the paint.

 

[TransAmMike]

20 minutes ago, Can-Con said:

I scuff up the back of the emblems with some fine sandpaper before taking them off the fret and attach them with a drop of Tamiya clear acrylic thinned 50/50 with rubbing alcohol. 

After this sits a few hours [or days] I brush a bit more of the thinned clear over the entire emblem to seal it to the paint.

 

Why do you thin the acrylic? Just wondering your reason. 

[Can-Con]

Just now, TransAmMike said:

Why do you thin the acrylic? Just wondering your reason. 

It's quite thick for this used strait from the bottle and can leave a raised, noticeable ridge around the P.E.

It lays down thinner and pretty well disappears this way.

[TransAmMike]

1 hour ago, Can-Con said:

It's quite thick for this used strait from the bottle and can leave a raised, noticeable ridge around the P.E.

It lays down thinner and pretty well disappears this way.

Thanks. I know quite some time ago I used Future which is pretty thin. 

[gary jackson]

thanks guys

[Dpate]

On 10/22/2022 at 7:58 PM, TransAmMike said:

So since the Thread is just entitled "photo etched parts" how about we get off the cutting topic and discuss gluing the parts. 

I have photo etch emblems to install onto the body of my current project.

What say you?

I use this along with other glue products.