jaynew246 Posted November 24, 2022 Posted November 24, 2022 Hello all, this is my first forum post ever after seeing the depth of knowledge here. I am respraying my old 2001 f150 and I have got some tiger stripes in the paint. It is not extreme to the point that i would want to sand it and start over ((1) it is my weekend driver & (2) dont have the time) but I still want it to look as best as I can. I am wondering: would I be able to wet sand these stripes out? If so, what would I do next? For context I used duplicolor cardinal red color match for FORD, and sprayed a total of 4 layers on after I primed it with rustoleum primer. The stripes are only slightly visible from specific angles but often you cannot see them, especially without a light reflecting upon it. Thanks for any help and happy thanksgiving!
LL3 Model Worx Posted November 24, 2022 Posted November 24, 2022 (edited) Do a light wet sanding with 1000 then shoot again, 70% overlap in the spray pattern outta do it. You basically have inconsistencies in the way the gun moved etc... So a line of paint that went on dry vs a line that went on wet and issues with the overlap of the pattern. Be sure to hold the gun perpendicular to the panel and overlap about 70%... look for consistency of flow on the panel. But don't feel bad, it's an easy mistake to make... I've done it several times. Edited November 24, 2022 by LL3 Model Worx 1
BlackSheep214 Posted November 24, 2022 Posted November 24, 2022 (edited) This forum is a model car forum, not a 1:1 forum topic. You have to go elsewhere to ask this question since this involves bodywork painting on your personal truck, not a model kit. Edited November 24, 2022 by BlackSheep214 2
bobthehobbyguy Posted November 24, 2022 Posted November 24, 2022 52 minutes ago, BlackSheep214 said: This forum is a model car forum, not a 1:1 forum topic. You have to go elsewhere to ask this question since this involves bodywork painting on your personal truck, not a model kit. Actually it is totally relevant. We embrace e all scales. 3
Oldcarfan27 Posted November 24, 2022 Posted November 24, 2022 To add to what Blacksheep said. The painting techniques for model cars is completely different than full size cars. You'd probably get better advice from another forum dealing with that kind of work. 1
LL3 Model Worx Posted November 24, 2022 Posted November 24, 2022 1 hour ago, BlackSheep214 said: This forum is a model car forum, not a 1:1 forum topic. You have to go elsewhere to ask this question since this involves bodywork painting on your personal truck, not a model kit. Basically the same principles and in alot of cases the same products used... its a totally relevant question as I'd bet alot of guys here have done (like myself) plenty of 1:1 work.
LL3 Model Worx Posted November 24, 2022 Posted November 24, 2022 1 minute ago, Oldcarfan27 said: To add to what Blacksheep said. The painting techniques for model cars is completely different than full size cars. You'd probably get better advice from another forum dealing with that kind of work. The overall process differs some in the prep stage, but the technique of application and finishing is ultimately the same. No reason the question shouldn't be allowed or perhaps answered... Mileage would vary regardless... as who knows if any of us even know how to paint a model, let alone a 1:1 truck. I've always assumed information obtained here is consumed and applied at my own risk.
Oldcarfan27 Posted November 24, 2022 Posted November 24, 2022 My concern is that you can't get good, professional results using spray cans, airbrushes and acrylic craft paint. But if we offer something you can use, my best to you.
Can-Con Posted November 24, 2022 Posted November 24, 2022 51 minutes ago, LL3 Model Worx said: Basically the same principles and in alot of cases the same products used... its a totally relevant question as I'd bet alot of guys here have done (like myself) plenty of 1:1 work. Possibly one or two of us. ? 3
Can-Con Posted November 24, 2022 Posted November 24, 2022 15 hours ago, jaynew246 said: Hello all, this is my first forum post ever after seeing the depth of knowledge here. I am respraying my old 2001 f150 and I have got some tiger stripes in the paint. It is not extreme to the point that i would want to sand it and start over ((1) it is my weekend driver & (2) dont have the time) but I still want it to look as best as I can. I am wondering: would I be able to wet sand these stripes out? If so, what would I do next? For context I used duplicolor cardinal red color match for FORD, and sprayed a total of 4 layers on after I primed it with rustoleum primer. The stripes are only slightly visible from specific angles but often you cannot see them, especially without a light reflecting upon it. Thanks for any help and happy thanksgiving! IF it's a solid, non-metallic paint, then you should be able to just wet sand it out with 1000 grit like Leroy said above but then polish it with scratch remover. But if it's a metallic, you'll need to do as he said above. 1
LL3 Model Worx Posted November 24, 2022 Posted November 24, 2022 (edited) 19 minutes ago, Can-Con said: Possibly one or two of us. ? 11 minutes ago, Can-Con said: IF it's a solid, non-metallic paint, then you should be able to just wet sand it out with 1000 grit like Leroy said above but then polish it with scratch remover. But if it's a metallic, you'll need to do as he said above. That looks pretty nice! And I didn't even consider if it were metalic or solid... I just assumed metalic because as you know solids tend to stripe less in general. Edited November 24, 2022 by LL3 Model Worx 1
Scott8950 Posted November 25, 2022 Posted November 25, 2022 20 hours ago, Can-Con said: Possibly one or two of us. ? That is a nice trans am, gotta love the 3rd gen f body... what engine is in yours? 1
Can-Con Posted November 25, 2022 Posted November 25, 2022 1 hour ago, Scott8950 said: That is a nice trans am, gotta love the 3rd gen f body... what engine is in yours? It's just a base model 305. ?
Scott8950 Posted November 25, 2022 Posted November 25, 2022 5 minutes ago, Can-Con said: It's just a base model 305. ? I owned a 85 and a 89 years ago both were fun cars. Now I'm tinkering with this, it's stock at the moment with a few upgrades coming. 1
Can-Con Posted November 25, 2022 Posted November 25, 2022 1 minute ago, Scott8950 said: I owned a 85 and a 89 years ago both were fun cars. Now I'm tinkering with this, it's stock at the moment with a few upgrades coming. Nice!. I like those mid-'80s Vettes a lot and black is the perfect color for them.
Scott8950 Posted November 25, 2022 Posted November 25, 2022 2 hours ago, Can-Con said: Nice!. I like those mid-'80s Vettes a lot and black is the perfect color for them. Thanks. I'm a 80s car fanatic. This car is a 87 with 63k miles.
BlackSheep214 Posted November 26, 2022 Posted November 26, 2022 On 11/24/2022 at 2:45 PM, Oldcarfan27 said: To add to what Blacksheep said. The painting techniques for model cars is completely different than full size cars. You'd probably get better advice from another forum dealing with that kind of work. This^^^^^
LL3 Model Worx Posted November 26, 2022 Posted November 26, 2022 24 minutes ago, BlackSheep214 said: This^^^^^ I respectfully disagree with the notion and I'm sure others with 1:1 experience would as well. I understand the perception that the 2 aren't related or the same but that notion isn't correct. Paint work on a model car and on a 1:1 is much the same. We prep do body/filler work and sand the body to smooth and level the surface, we prime, we wash and dry they surface then we paint... then we clear, using ( in alot of cases) the same materials. And we repeat any of those steps as necessary. We use the same method of compressed air to atomize the paint and propell it onto the surface wether that be via spray can, airbrush, or even a small hvlp detail gun wich I have used for models many times. Ideally we use the same spray techniques... re coat times etc... It's fundamentally the same, just on a smaller scale. The same things that will ruin a 1:1 paint job will ruin a model and vice versa... And alot of the remedies for problems are much the same as well. 2
NOBLNG Posted November 26, 2022 Posted November 26, 2022 (edited) “General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)” “For general model car hobby or 1:1 automotive related topics ONLY. Both trucks and cars are appropriate topics.” Edited November 26, 2022 by NOBLNG 1
LL3 Model Worx Posted November 26, 2022 Posted November 26, 2022 10 hours ago, Tabbysdaddy said: Apples and oranges. I welcome you to make the distinction for the rest of us. I'm actually interested in hearing your opinion as to what actually makes it apples to oranges.
BlackSheep214 Posted November 26, 2022 Posted November 26, 2022 10 hours ago, Tabbysdaddy said: Apples and oranges. Metal and plastic. Yeah there’s a difference. Similar process. 9 hours ago, NOBLNG said: “General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)” “For general model car hobby or 1:1 automotive related topics ONLY. Both trucks and cars are appropriate topics.” Well no ****. I can read. He was asking an autobody question on a model car forum. Similar but different process. Autobody work is more involved than on a simple model kit. But hey... each to his own. Let him take your advice. I could care less. Debate or ridicule me all you want but I would never offer advice for fixing his paint job on his 1:1 truck. Just sayin’...
LL3 Model Worx Posted November 26, 2022 Posted November 26, 2022 1 minute ago, BlackSheep214 said: Metal and plastic. Yeah there’s a difference. Similar process. Well no ****. I can read. He was asking an autobody question on a model car forum. Similar but different process. Autobody work is more involved than on a simple model kit. But hey... each to his own. Let him take your advice. I could care less. Debate or ridicule me all you want but I would never offer advice for fixing his paint job on his 1:1 truck. Just sayin’... What does the substrate material below the primer have to do with it? Painting/finishing a peice of primed metal vs a piece of primed styrene is absolutely NO different other than size. Not to mention we paint alot of plastic on 1:1 also... mirrors/ door handles... bumpers. Grills... you name it. And if anything painting a model is MORE involved... because they tiniest flaws are magnified! Unlike a 1:1 where you can have a big run go completely unnoticed until you get right up on it. I'm not here to beat you up or argue... but your original post of "YOU CAN'T ASK THAT HERE" is just flat wrong... and it came off rude as hell. And as far as us guys with decades of real world experience sharing advice when asked? The OP is a GROWN man! He asked a question and if he chooses to accept the answers given that's his choice. He's a big boy. You yourself encouraged him to go ask on a 1:1 forum... what's the difference in a stranger there and a stranger here? I'm sorry if I come off as a jerk... but it just irks me when others are quick to snub someone rather than try to be helpful. 2
LL3 Model Worx Posted November 26, 2022 Posted November 26, 2022 20 hours ago, Scott8950 said: I owned a 85 and a 89 years ago both were fun cars. Now I'm tinkering with this, it's stock at the moment with a few upgrades coming. Don't want to put the curse on you Scott but I had one a few years back, only had 37k on it. Garage kept. Bought it from an old lady. It was medium brown metalic with the beige interior. Drove it to get McDonald's one night and it wiped the cam... still not sure what happened as it had plenty of oil pressure. very bad memory. I just sold it as is.
Tabbysdaddy Posted November 26, 2022 Posted November 26, 2022 1 hour ago, LL3 Model Worx said: I welcome you to make the distinction for the rest of us. I'm actually interested in hearing your opinion as to what actually makes it apples to oranges. I try not to argue with people that say apples and oranges are the same thing. "They're both fruit. They're both somewhat round. They both taste sweet. You use the same process to remove them from the tree." I just wanted to cast my vote for logic and reason. 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now