Sanding between coats.

[D.Pack]

Hi everyone.

A new forum member from UK with a first post on how to proceed with sanding out faults. Never had to (or cared to) do this before.

So, I stopped to spray this bodyshell as I had some debris in the paint.

No problem, I'll just sand it out, but then how much to continue sanding? You can see the primer showing, is this normal when builders are sanding between coats?

How is the new paint going to lay?

 

[OldNYJim]

You’ll definitely see the primer pop through if you’ve only laid a light coat on and then sanded back a little - doesn’t look like any cause for concern from this end

If you were painting something transparent colored (a candy, or something that doesn’t cover very well and requires multiple coats) then you might have more issues, but that color you’re using looks pretty opaque.

When I get a little dust or grit in my paint I’ll sand back to where it’s smooth and then carry on where I left off - no biggie (and best to fix it now rather than try burying it and ending up with a mess)

[Rick L]

In my own experience, I agree with this. I prefer using lacquer when painting bodies. I carefully watch for dust on each pass of spray. And if I see any trace of dust, I stop immediately. You can’t bury it with more paint. Flash it with air if possible and wait for it to dry completely. When dry I can usually flick the dust off with 500 grit paper and continue with minimal damage.

[D.Pack]

Thanks for your replies.

Also, today I painted another nascar shell, with debris problem again*, but luckily it fell onto the roof flap.

I can use its panel lines to mask off and repair.

And about sanding down the colour coat, how smooth to go for the paint to key?

I go down to 8000 for my primer, the same or 12000 to continue spraying the above blue colour?

*I may start to wear a hair net when spraying!

[LL3 Model Worx]

6 hours ago, D.Pack said:

Thanks for your replies.

Also, today I painted another nascar shell, with debris problem again*, but luckily it fell onto the roof flap.

I can use its panel lines to mask off and repair.

And about sanding down the colour coat, how smooth to go for the paint to key?

I go down to 8000 for my primer, the same or 12000 to continue spraying the above blue colour?

*I may start to wear a hair net when spraying!

I know it sounds ridiculous... but try getting a couple of balloons rub them on your head and keep them near the body when you paint... the static charge will help the dust stay away from the model. 

We used to drag chains and put them under 1:1 for the same purpose.

 

 

 

[D.Pack]

On 11/28/2022 at 12:18 AM, LL3 Model Worx said:

I know it sounds ridiculous... but try getting a couple of balloons rub them on your head and keep them near the body when you paint... the static charge will help the dust stay away from the model. 

We used to drag chains and put them under 1:1 for the same purpose.

 

 

 

I will for sure try that balloon hack.

And an interesting Google search for static/painting.

Static free paint guns? Can effect metallic finish? Lots of info.

[LL3 Model Worx]

4 hours ago, D.Pack said:

I will for sure try that balloon hack.

And an interesting Google search for static/painting.

Static free paint guns? Can effect metallic finish? Lots of info.

Oh yea, they certainly have came up with better ways to skin a rabbit for sure!

[robdebie]

Not a straight answer to your question, but still a solution: with the technique shown in the video link below, I learned how to paint a body super smooth without orange peel in one go. No sanding between coats required. The Paasche H (or equivalent) is essential I believe, it doesn't work with a more sophisticated airbrush.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCKZ_fo4eW0

Here are some test parts that I painted with various brands of enamel paint.

Rob

Edited November 30, 2022 by robdebie