Looking for a slow setting liquid cement

[LDO]

I’m trying to make a cylinder by laminating sheet styrene. I need a cement that I can brush on, while giving time to position the next layer of styrene. My first effort (using MEK) has sink marks from too much solvent in a small spot. Can someone make a good recommendation? 
 

Pics are a previous effort that worked better, but still has a sink mark. This was wrapped around a PVC pipe coupling that I had sanded and filed smooth. After each layer of plastic, I put a smooth hose clamp around it. My most recent effort was laminated inside a piece of PVC pipe, with a test ball after each layer. A test ball is like a heavy duty cylindrical balloon that can be inflated to block a pipe for testing during construction. (I’m a plumber)
 

 

Edited December 18, 2022 by LDO
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[stitchdup]

would some of the slow epoxies work? superglue probably would let go if there any unrolling pressure on it

[LDO]

I hadn’t thought about epoxy, but I would prefer to use a solvent glue. 

[Rick L]

PS 30 acrylic adhesive. It also dries crystal clear.

Edited December 18, 2022 by Rick L

[peteski]

I never fully succeed laminating styrene using solvent glue (and my attempts were smaller than yours).  The problem with solvent cements is . . . the solvent.  For me the laminated parts end up bowing, weeks or months after being glued. I suspect because the solvent never fully evaporates. I used MEK.

I also agree that welding the pieces is the best practice to produce strongest joint.  None of the non-solvent-based adhesives (CA glue, epoxy) will likely be as strong, especially if the parts are bent after being bonded.

I'll be curious how you solve the problem.

[LDO]

I think I would have better luck laminating around the outside diameter of a piece of PVC (I’m a plumber, so I can get small scraps of pipe for free). This latest effort was done inside a pipe, but that is a lot of moving plastic around while solvent glue evaporates. Outside a pipe is much easier and faster. My part needs to be right at 3.00” OD. The ID of 3” PVC is just right. I’ll check the OD of 2.5” pipe. I’ll try to post some pics tonight. 

[Dpate]

This is the slower than there other 2 and doesn't work the same.  Brush on both parts and put together with plenty of time to move parts around etc.  

Edited December 20, 2022 by Dpate

[LDO]

What do you mean by it doesn’t work the same? Does it have the same strong plastic weld bond?

[Dpate]

1 hour ago, LDO said:

What do you mean by it doesn’t work the same? Does it have the same strong plastic weld bond?

It doesn't have capillary action like there thin versions.  Yes it still has the same strong bond, just a lot thicker. Think of 5 min epoxy just not as thick as epoxy.  Soon as i seen the title of your post this is the first thing that popped in my head.  I got my bottle from hobby town for like $5, and online around the same price.

Edited December 20, 2022 by Dpate

[LDO]

I’ll pick some up. Thank you. 

[peteski]

Even with that "orange label" Tamiya cement you might still end up with a problem of long term slow-evaporating solvent. But worth a try.

[Rick L]

• https://casewayproducts.com/ps-30-acrylic-adhesive/

[Dave G.]

You might try the black bottle Testors liquid. It too is not as thin as a capillary action cement but it holds/welds real well, cures in about two hours and gives a few minutes working time to reposition. It's what I use on things like door hinges and such that need to really bond tight. It's not like the orange tube Testors that if need be you could pop things apart, the black bottle cement is there to stay once set. Just a suggestion but I've also never done what you're doing.