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Posted (edited)

I use my dial calipers a lot, but find the equal thickness jaws make it difficult for any scribing or marking chores. So I bought a set of digital calipers off Kijiji for $15 just so I could modify them like so. I super glued a small strip of metal to the fixed jaw. Being digital, they can be zeroed and will still read accurate through the entire scale. They now work as a scriber and it’s a lot easier to measure from the edge of a sheet or rod.

Edit: Be aware, only the outside jaws read accurate after this modification.

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Edited by NOBLNG
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Posted
32 minutes ago, peteski said:

Very handy fifteen dollar tool, and accurate to 0.001"!  Nice!

For that price you can even afford to have multiple digital calipers.

I have two dial calipers which I prefer over digital, one in the garage and one on the model bench. The cheapest new digital one I could find was $40. so when I saw this brand new/used one for $15. I grabbed it.? There are “composite” ones cheaper, but they would not make a good scriber. The big advantage of digital is that it can work in metric or imperial.

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Posted

Nice, Amazon is full of cheaper calipers that are fine for model making. I have a couple, but I like my digital one because it allows me to use in or mm and switch between the two.

The are impossible to live without when drawing for 3D printing.

Posted

I have both a dial caliper and a digital one. They both work well. I tend to favor the digital one as it is easier to do the math when scaling down items. It is also very handy when I print decals to not overlay my artwork when making multiple print passes of individual artwork files on one page.

Posted

I may have to modify one of my digital calipers, looks like a very good idea.  Harbor Freight has digital calipers ranging in price from $10-50.  The ones I have cost around $20.

Posted (edited)

*Just a heads up for anyone contemplating doing this*. ONLY THE MAIN JAWS WILL READ ACCURATE  after this modification. Neither the end depth guage or inside jaws will agree with the outside jaws. I found that out this morning when I measured a gap with the inside jaws then measured a filler piece with the main  jaws and it came out short by the thickness of my metal plate.? Still a useful mod, but be aware.…you might not want to do it to your ONLY micrometer.

Edited by NOBLNG
Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

*Just a heads up for anyone contemplating doing this*. ONLY THE MAIN JAWS WILL READ ACCURATE  after this modification. Neither the end depth guage or inside jaws will agree with the outside jaws. I found that out this morning when I measured a gap with the inside jaws then measured a filler piece with the main  jaws and it came out short by the thickness of my metal plate.? Still a useful mod, but be aware.?

Pretty obvious if you only modify one measuring contact face, the other two wouldn't be affected, eh?

Prime reason to only do the mod on one cheap unit.

Good that you posted the heads-up on this.  :D

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Pretty obvious if you only modify one measuring contact face, the other two wouldn't be affected, eh?

Prime reason to only do the mod on one cheap unit.

NOW you tell me.?? You could file the inside jaws and depth pin to agreement. Not .001” accurate likely though.

Edited by NOBLNG
Posted (edited)

If you use a piece of nominal sized gauge plate that is an accurate thickness, say 2mm or 3mms to extend the rear has as described, the unit could still be used for measuring. The plate thickness would need subtracting from the calliper  measurement. Ok for casual measurement taking as the adhesive thickness holding the plate onto the jaw would preclude high precision measurement.

I have a small vernier caliper made by Eskilstuna in Sweden that I bought when I was an apprentice back in the 60's. Have used it constantly since in industry and now on my model making desk. Lovely, beautifully made precision tool and as accurate as when bought.

Edited by Bugatti Fan

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