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Chrysler 300 B - by the book (almost)


customline

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19 hours ago, customline said:

Thanks, Dave.  As far as paint goes,  I'm still kicking it around. I use Tamiya white fine surface under the color coat for all projects now. I have never used Tamiya colors from the rattle can (or otherwise, for that matter.) Maybe you could advise me on this stuff; is it lacquer? 🤔.  My son has used it and he assured me it's the best rattle can on the planet. If it goes on like the primer, I should be good, right? I thought maybe I should decant it but my airbrush may not be better for a poor coverage paint. I worry about a streaky finish. The correct color for this car is, I think, Cloud White.  MCW has it and I may go with that. Anyway, it's a ways off. Lots to get done before I commit to any color. I have some Alclad II gloss black lacquer base for chrome hanging around that would look reeeeealy good on this beast. 👌 9340738605_faea686d2c_b.jpg.69c100862d2eea5bcb12343afca6f78f.jpgchrysler_300_letter_series_1956_pictures_1.jpg.9edbc944e81fcb463da443bc39b7a49d.jpg

 

 

 

I have been pleased with the Tamiya spray cans. I know many here prefer to decant the paint and use their air brushes and I'm sure this may give them a little more control over the finish, but I just haven't found it necessary. As with anything I suggest some testing before committing to painting the model. As with any paint job the surface prep is the key to a good finish. I do a lot of agitation of the paint can and heat it by setting it partially submerged in warm water for a few minutes before actually spraying the model. This tends to somewhat thin the paint flow. Looking at the picture you have posted of the black Chrysler reminds me of a build I posted yesterday and should have the finished model posted today. I have used Tamiya Gloss Black and their Clear on the body of a '65 Belvedere. Polishing was done with Nu Finish Scratch Doctor automotive type polish followed by Tamiya Finish Compound. I'm sure if you look around the forum, you'll find better finishes here and there, but they spent far more time and effort to accomplish that finish than I did.    

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56 minutes ago, espo said:

I have been pleased with the Tamiya spray cans. I know many here prefer to decant the paint and use their air brushes and I'm sure this may give them a little more control over the finish, but I just haven't found it necessary. As with anything I suggest some testing before committing to painting the model. As with any paint job the surface prep is the key to a good finish. I do a lot of agitation of the paint can and heat it by setting it partially submerged in warm water for a few minutes before actually spraying the model. This tends to somewhat thin the paint flow. Looking at the picture you have posted of the black Chrysler reminds me of a build I posted yesterday and should have the finished model posted today. I have used Tamiya Gloss Black and their Clear on the body of a '65 Belvedere. Polishing was done with Nu Finish Scratch Doctor automotive type polish followed by Tamiya Finish Compound. I'm sure if you look around the forum, you'll find better finishes here and there, but they spent far more time and effort to accomplish that finish than I did.    

Yup. Gotta shake 'em good to keep the settled out pigment from clogging the dip-tube. I heat my cans in fully hot water or with a hair dryer but my reason for heating is to boost the pressure for better atomization. I prefer the convenience of the spray can because I hate cleaning my airbrush (I'm old and lazy). I did, however, airbrush two assembled chassis and a floor pan Friday with a half bottle of Model Master Semigloss Black and it looks a thousand times better than a Krylon job, which is what I usually do 🤓. It's hard to tell in a photo but the chassis and floor pan look like unpainted black plastic. I mixed it pretty thin using cheap lacquer thinner (the Yost method) and before I was done the air cap was clogged with dried paint.  The way that bottom looks,  I'm not even sanding my tire treads. It's going "Showroom". 😎

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This is a heads-up for anyone interested.  If you are trying to build a "correct" model it is wise to scrutinize every detail before any paint, is applied. It's too late for me, but here is one thing I have just discovered and it's definitely on me for missing this. The interior door panels are not correct and are easily fixed but it needs to be done before you paint 😀

You will notice the front of the door is not scribed. Easily fixed. The bottom of the door that is "carpeted" is not correct and the kick panel is missing the chrome strip .....And the 1:1 kick panels are angled in. 

i could have done a better, more thorough fix had I not rushed ahead and painted. I'm just going to do a quick fix but I don't feel good about it. 😣

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Edited by customline
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3 hours ago, Zippi said:

Coming along nicely.  The door hinges look pretty good.  I just picked up one of these kits at the Hobby Shop yesterday.  

Congrats, Bob, you did the right thing!😎.   Look it over really well because some parting lines are very elusive. Look closely around the headlights and the c-pillar / top of fin/ trunk opening. Look for very small molding glitches.  If you have opened it and looked it over, I (we?) would be interested in any comments on what you find inside the box and you are welcome to do so "here". 

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Does anyone know what this is supposed to be? I can't find a picture of it on the web and it doesn't look like anything I recognize, so if you know or have a picture of it on a 1:1, I'm sure I'm not the only one who appreciate it. It could be a speaker but the shape is kinda odd. The rear defogger is totally different.  Should it be chrome? I dunno. Help!

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3 hours ago, customline said:

Does anyone know what this is supposed to be? I can't find a picture of it on the web and it doesn't look like anything I recognize, so if you know or have a picture of it on a 1:1, I'm sure I'm not the only one who appreciate it. It could be a speaker but the shape is kinda odd. The rear defogger is totally different.  Should it be chrome? I dunno. Help!

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It's the rear speaker grille and frame. Grille would be black, and frame would be the same color as the package tray, so in a 300 B, it'd be tan..

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5 hours ago, chryslerjunkandstuff said:

It's the rear speaker grille and frame. Grille would be black, and frame would be the same color as the package tray, so in a 300 B, it'd be tan..

Thank you Earl Scheib ( $39.95 paint job?). I couldn't find anything on it. Why the odd shape, though? Rear speakers were unusual back then.

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5 hours ago, customline said:

Thank you Earl Scheib ( $39.95 paint job?). I couldn't find anything on it. Why the odd shape, though? Rear speakers were unusual back then.

Why the odd shape?

"Chrysler in the 1950s"

is usually my go to blanket statement..

I do know that these ones were only used in the Imperial and Chrysler 300 B without Air Conditioning..

Here's a couple '56 300 B pics where you can see it..

Screenshot_2023-01-06-04-22-51-1.png.c32588ce6a135774e30552020779c2c7.png

This next one is from an all original car and is kinda worn, but you can see that, at one time, the speaker frame was tan..

32074260-1956-chrysler-300b-thumb.jpg.5cf0666774a7f47fd540508b5999b3cd.jpg

And here's a '56 Imperial Newport..

backseat.jpg.3971c8d35b7f4a44ccf7c41c2fd4affa.jpg

And one more '56 Imperial..

13.jpg.46cb95cfcd5d25f56cb0abdc09530349.jpg

Oh, and uh, I almost forgot..

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11 hours ago, chryslerjunkandstuff said:

Why the odd shape?

"Chrysler in the 1950s"

is usually my go to blanket statement..

I do know that these ones were only used in the Imperial and Chrysler 300 B without Air Conditioning..

Here's a couple '56 300 B pics where you can see it..

Screenshot_2023-01-06-04-22-51-1.png.c32588ce6a135774e30552020779c2c7.png

This next one is from an all original car and is kinda worn, but you can see that, at one time, the speaker frame was tan..

32074260-1956-chrysler-300b-thumb.jpg.5cf0666774a7f47fd540508b5999b3cd.jpg

And here's a '56 Imperial Newport..

backseat.jpg.3971c8d35b7f4a44ccf7c41c2fd4affa.jpg

And one more '56 Imperial..

13.jpg.46cb95cfcd5d25f56cb0abdc09530349.jpg

Oh, and uh, I almost forgot..

AA453D5B-6461-4BE7-B9F6-65BCCA799CCF.jpeg.9b3945312fc7d7a5b12f2b576d2e8d40.jpeg

 

Thanks, Earl....I don't think I can paint a 1:25 for $29.95 today 🤨. Have you ever seen one of those paint jobs? 😣.  Thanks for the info and pix! 

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3 hours ago, customline said:

Thanks, Earl....I don't think I can paint a 1:25 for $29.95 today 🤨. Have you ever seen one of those paint jobs? 😣.  Thanks for the info and pix! 

Nope, only heard the stories..

The REAL E. Scheib was before my time..

I earned that moniker via doing high quality paint and body works for the last couple decades, go figure lol

Around here we DID have Maaco tho, Scheibs spiritual successors whom would respray your car in any color for $149.95 and they sprayed everything including trim, weather stripping, bugs, dirt, tires, and lenses..

I'll give em this at least, their paint works were unbelievably shiny! 

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2 hours ago, chryslerjunkandstuff said:

Nope, only heard the stories..

The REAL E. Scheib was before my time..

I earned that moniker via doing high quality paint and body works for the last couple decades, go figure lol

Around here we DID have Maaco tho, Scheibs spiritual successors whom would respray your car in any color for $149.95 and they sprayed everything including trim, weather stripping, bugs, dirt, tires, and lenses..

I'll give em this at least, their paint works were unbelievably shiny! 

I saw the real thing only once. Around 1972. A co-worker (at the car wash) had his '65 Impala re-painted by the local (Providence) Earl shop. By then I think he was up to $39.95 (but still a bargain 💩! )  He wanted "midnight blue".  🤣  the thing I remember most is the way the guy was heartbroken over the color he ended up with.   Made me ill. The chalky faded original paint was easier to look at. You get what you pay for. Maybe.

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Very little progress on this one, I'm at a point where I just don't have a clear path.  The dash is half-way painted. It requires 3 different paints and the foiling is extremely difficult to apply.  There's a ton of detail but it's not completely accurate,  leaving me with the slack to take up. If I had not cut the door, I wouldn't sweat the dash so much but with an opening door, I want it to look right. The work around the jamb is done as much as I can do it. It's not accurate because the interior panels were not. The front jamb lines were non-existent. I gaffed it as much as I care to. I'm. Considering cutting the trunk but the inside of this trunk is pretty bland. But... it is what it is.

 

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see what I mean?

This is what I'm dealing with; trying to make it look half-way legit.

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Yes it does, yes it does...🐰

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today: gotta make trunk mat. Gonna snake some of the old woman's expensive paper stock, and her fancy glue and sticky stuff.  🙂

 

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That's all folks! 🐰

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Edited by customline
Erased stray letters
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On 1/19/2023 at 11:54 AM, espo said:

Great looking trunk floor covering. 

It's just gray card stock that I "commandeered " from Wifey. Her glue too ( 🤫 ). I got the dash done yesterday and I'm not really happy with it but if you don't zoom in too much it's ok. I wanna wrap this one up but it's an airbrush job (Alclad II gloss black base lacquer ) and I need the right day. I got ideas backing up in my head and I want to start on them but juggling any more than 4 gets a bit confusing .  Thanks for your support, David.

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Looking good Jim. You have done a fantastic job on the interior. I think it takes balls to cut open doors, I have tried it and ended up parking it.

I did a 300B a couple of years back and found I had to do a lot of clean up on the body - lots of mould lines to clean up and some a little vague. The 300 and 300B are nice looking cars IMO 

 

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