Making Windshields and Windows Clearer

[Miatatom]

I always try to make the "glass" in my models look clearer but dipping them in Future. Sometimes they look great and sometimes not. What are your tips and tricks for making them clearer? How do you handle and place them without messing them up?

[Dpate]

Novus #1 works good, but it wont turn a AMT clear part into a Tamiya clear part. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

Get rid of as many of them as you can and replace them with thin, more in scale, clear plastic sheet.

 

 

Steve

[NOBLNG]

As soon as I remove them from the bag I cut a piece of masking tape to cover both sides, leaving just the perimeter where the glue will be uncovered. I can then handle them without scratching them.

[Miatatom]

9 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Get rid of as many of them as you can and replace them with thin, more in scale, clear plastic sheet.

 

 

Steve

Where do you find clear plastic sheet?

[TarheelRick]

10 minutes ago, Miatatom said:

Where do you find clear plastic sheet?

You may be surprised if you just look around your house at the amount of clear plastic.  A whole lot of the product you purchase are encased in plastic. I buy salads at the grocery store, and they come in a good-sized, clear plastic container.  Although I haven't bought one in years dress shirts quite often come in clear plastic containers.  Hope this helps in some way.

[NOBLNG]

49 minutes ago, Miatatom said:

Where do you find clear plastic sheet?

Hobby shops sell it. Evergreen makes it and there are others. Or like Rick said, packaging…if you can find un-scratched sections.

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, Miatatom said:

Where do you find clear plastic sheet?

You can get as thin as .010 through Evergreen.

 

However, for windshields and such, I prefer a thinner product.

I use a "Clear Lay Film", manufactured by "Grafix" that I purchased at Hobby Lobby many years ago.

It is .007 thick, so therefore more flexible for curved glass.

 

I have grown to really dislike kit glass in general.

Far too thick in most cases, so you get all of that weird refraction, especially around the edges, that grossly detracts from the realism of a model.

The lay film that I mentioned above is not as clear, or as glossy as clear styrene, but to my eye, it still looks far more realistic than glass that's way too thick.

 

I'm sure that with some extra polishing or maybe a coat of Future, the shine level could be improved, but I usually just use it straight from the package and find it satisfactory.

 

 

 

Steve

[Mike 1017]

I use Pledge or Wicked Colors Clearcoat to improve the look of the glass.

Mike

[Bainford]

I polish kit glass with Tamiya polishes, all three grits, unless the glass is very good to begin with, then start with Fine. Give it a good second work-out with the Finish grit. Follow up with Tamiya wax. If the glass has significant waviness or optical distortion, I first sand it with fine sand paper, used wet, and with a drafting eraser for a sanding block. When the surfaces are good and flat (so to speak), I give it a work-out with micromesh pads up to at least 8000 grit, then hit it with the Tamiya polishes. Kit glass can be greatly improved, and a much better result then dipping in Future.

The very best method is illustrated by Steve's Pontiac above. I'm moving in that direction more as time goes on, but struggling somewhat with acceptable results (though, I'm being highly critical when assessing those results). I think I need to change the brand of clear plastic I'm using. I'll keep trying it. The potential for excellent realism is there.

[Pierre Rivard]

I'm very impressed with the 0.007 film Steven is using. Definitely something I want to try.

I used to dip parts in Future but I now brush it on the part and I think it is actually better. The key for me has been to do both sides for best results. Method used for glass and headlamp covers on Corvette Grand Sport below.

 

[Khils]

2 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

 

 

Steve

One beautiful GP Steve!!

[Miatatom]

On 1/1/2023 at 3:21 PM, Pierre Rivard said:

I used to dip parts in Future but I now brush it on the part and I think it is actually better.

What brand and size brush do you use?

[Pierre Rivard]

9 hours ago, Miatatom said:

What brand and size brush do you use?

Hi Tom, I use a 1/2 inch flat brush made by Privateer Press model 93090 for all large surfaces like body, glass etc.

[Miatatom]

5 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Hi Tom, I use a 1/2 inch flat brush made by Privateer Press model 93090 for all large surfaces like body, glass etc.

I searched Hobby Lobby and Michael's. Neither has it. What's your source?

[Pierre Rivard]

2 hours ago, Miatatom said:

I searched Hobby Lobby and Michael's. Neither has it. What's your source?

I once found one at my local art supplies store but they no longer had it last year so I got my last one from Amazon.

[James2]

Future brushed on and then when dry I color the edge with a black Sharpie. This blocks light from revealing the thickness of said glass.