Jaguar E-Type 1962 Le Mans

[Ace-Garageguy]

On 2/3/2023 at 9:21 AM, afx said:

Borrani wheels do come in different finishes. Back in period if the wheels were built for racing they were painted. Simple as that. Faffing with Chrome was more effort, but also in the day there was always the risk of nitrogen embrittlement. What was critical for a racing car on Borrani wheels was strength, and mild steel spokes that are simply painted was what they did.

 

I don't know where you got this, but it's hydrogen embrittlement that's usually associated with chrome plating.

https://www.sharrettsplating.com/blog/hydrogen-embrittlement-electroplating-what-you-need-to-know/

Nitrogen embrittlement is something else entirely.  https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/1982MTA....13.1939B/abstract

Edited February 9, 2023 by Ace-Garageguy

[Pierre Rivard]

You're right Andy, the A arms on this kit are rather simplistic, surprising considering this is a newly tooled kit. Thinking if I should do something about it.

Still need to do a battery tray and have yet to figure out the oil filter arrangement on the dry sump setup. On wet sump engines it runs horizontal on the right side.

[Gramps46]

FWIW

 

[Pierre Rivard]

Thanks Gary, some helpful ref pics I had not seen before. Interesting to see the production fuel filler door was left untouched...after I spent all that time filling the one on my model...

Evidence or the rear red wheels on every pic (darker on b&w shots). Should I go back and paint my rears ???... the accuracy vs elegance dilemma.

[MarkJ]

1 hour ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Thanks Gary, some helpful ref pics I had not seen before. Interesting to see the production fuel filler door was left untouched...after I spent all that time filling the one on my model...

Evidence or the rear red wheels on every pic (darker on b&w shots). Should I go back and paint my rears ???... the accuracy vs elegance dilemma.

I'd go the elegance route. Those wheels could not have stayed on the car for the whole 24 hours, could they?

[absmiami]

forgot that you've chosen to build the Revell kit and not the older Heller kit - for the record - the heller front suspension was compromised too ...

 

[Pierre Rivard]

1 hour ago, MarkJ said:

I'd go the elegance route. Those wheels could not have stayed on the car for the whole 24 hours, could they?

For sure not, the car broke down after 4 hours...  ?

[MarkJ]

1 hour ago, Pierre Rivard said:

For sure not, the car broke down after 4 hours...  ?

Oops, I guess you're stuck with the red ones. Were they actually red, or red oxide primered, and never got the silver or gray or whatever it was put on them?

[Pierre Rivard]

36 minutes ago, MarkJ said:

Oops, I guess you're stuck with the red ones. Were they actually red, or red oxide primered, and never got the silver or gray or whatever it was put on them?

Don't know, could be either way and why is a mystery. I don't know how often tires lasted but it's quite possible they got changed before the car DNF'd.

I just can't bring myself to do silver fronts and red rears...

[Gramps46]

This is a pretty good reference link on the original 1962 Jaguar wire wheels. 

https://mossmotoring.com/

It is my belief that the 1962 #8 raced on Dunlop manufactured wire wheels which have a conical lacing shape to them. The same shape as in the various plastic kits of the XKE.  

From current photos of the restored Jaguar it appears to be wearing Borrani wire wheels which have rim offset and a flatter shape.

The owner of #8 was a privateer and may have sourced his wheels wherever he could have found them and was not concerned about the color.

 

[Kenmojr]

Looking good...

[MarkJ]

13 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Don't know, could be either way and why is a mystery. I don't know how often tires lasted but it's quite possible they got changed before the car DNF'd.

I just can't bring myself to do silver fronts and red rears...

Good. I'm very glad to hear that. Sometimes being exactly right about a build actually detracts from the overall look of the build. 

[Gramps46]

4 hours ago, MarkJ said:

Good. I'm very glad to hear that. Sometimes being exactly right about a build actually detracts from the overall look of the build. 

Huh??  For me doing the research to get it exactly right is part of the enjoyment of building the model.

Oh well, back on my head.?

Edited February 10, 2023 by Gramps46

[Pierre Rivard]

And we have color!

 

[Smilesperhour]

That blue looks great

[Pierre Rivard]

The shot was taken last night in the display cabinet. This one taken this morning with natural light from an adjacent window.

Vallejo Model Color: 2 parts Dark Prussian Blue, 1 part Violet and 1 part Silver.

 

Edited February 11, 2023 by Pierre Rivard

[MarkJ]

15 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

And we have color!

 

Looks like it will be perfect when you get it glass smooth. No brush strokes that I can see at all.

[Pierre Rivard]

After first coat of clear which deepens the color. Quite happy with my color mix.

 

[MarkJ]

Oh, Yeah. You did it again Pierre. Looks like a perfect match to me. I knew the polishing would deepen the color and make it just right.

[Pierre Rivard]

36 minutes ago, MarkJ said:

Oh, Yeah. You did it again Pierre. Looks like a perfect match to me. I knew the polishing would deepen the color and make it just right.

Thanks Mark. I did a very light polishing (8000 & 12000) of the primer, nothing for the color coat (I never do) and nothing yet for the clear. The last picture is after 1 coat of clear, and I brushed a second layer of clear just minutes ago. If I eventually polish that clear it will be minimal.

[absmiami]

I still cant believe that you brush paint ….   What clear paint did you use …. ??

[Pierre Rivard]

2 hours ago, absmiami said:

I still cant believe that you brush paint ….   What clear paint did you use …. ??

Tamiya X-22 Acrylic, X-20A thinner and Acrylic paint retarder, ratios 50%, 30% and 20%

[MarkJ]

4 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Thanks Mark. I did a very light polishing (8000 & 12000) of the primer, nothing for the color coat (I never do) and nothing yet for the clear. The last picture is after 1 coat of clear, and I brushed a second layer of clear just minutes ago. If I eventually polish that clear it will be minimal.

Wow, Yes, I understand not polishing the color coat but to get it on that smooth with just the paint and the clear is phenomenal. A light polish of the clear will make it extremely nice. You could probably just use some liquid polish. Its more forgiving than the paper or the pads. Just don't go through the clear and the paint into the primer. I have done that before. But it's pretty easy to fix if you do. Another plus about brush painting.

[absmiami]

Whats the trick  - other than practice and steady nerves - is it the retarder ?

[Pierre Rivard]

30 minutes ago, absmiami said:

Whats the trick  - other than practice and steady nerves - is it the retarder ?

It took time and experimenting to develop a system that works, starting with surface prep all the way to clear coat, but to answer your specific question I would say yes, the retarder is the secret sauce to achieve a smooth brushed on clear coat.