Ferrari 250 GTO #32, for the 1964 Sebring 12 Hour group build

[Ace-Garageguy]

This one's on the bench again too, so it gets its own thread.

Not much more fun you can have than to do 3 Ferrari builds and a hot-rod in rotation.

Starting here with a lightly molested Testors/Italeri 250 GTO. Though I prefer the proportions of the Gunze GTO (the only other Ferrari GTO kit I haven't moved west yet...and which is the third Ferrari in the group, getting a Pontiac GTO 3X2 engine), this one has the correct rear wheel arches and lips, and a slightly flatter nose that looks, to me, more like the Sebring #32 car...but it needs an additional gill on each front fender, and the vent behind the side windows needs to go away.

The nose lower valence had already been glooed on, in the wrong place slightly, but getting it off was no real problem. Template to transfer the additional gill shape in process too.

Unfortunately, the primer I elected to try resulted in the most spectacular crazing I've ever encountered on a model. I should take my own advice: TEST FIRST.

Anyway, I've about fixed it, know it will be fine, and pix will follow, again, shortly.  

 

 

[89AKurt]

Of course I will have to lurk for this build.  Built it recently with slight modifications. ?  I added the third vent.  I have the Protar kit, also the Gunze without the engine.

[Ace-Garageguy]

2 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

Of course I will have to lurk for this build.  Built it recently with slight modifications.

Looks good topless, and in giallo. 

[Ace-Garageguy]

Shot the body on this one with the same hot self-etching green as I used on the 275P. No color bleed, BUT the crazing was so bad you could almost hear it cracking.

Not to worry though. It'll block out.

So...the takeaway from this little experiment is that RED BLEEDS SOMETIMES, and HOT PRIMERS CRAZE SOMETIMES. Always TEST FIRST.

You may not be able to see it, but the red bleed on the 275P was so bad, it even came through the white Tamiya putty. And note the color differences between the two bodies shot with the same primers, where one red plastic bled, the other didn't.

 

 

Edited April 24, 2023 by Ace-Garageguy

[Pierre Rivard]

Just curious Bill, why self-etching primer on a styrene body. Not critiquing in any way, just trying to understand the reason.

[Ace-Garageguy]

On 4/26/2023 at 1:23 PM, Pierre Rivard said:

Just curious Bill, why self-etching primer on a styrene body. Not critiquing in any way, just trying to understand the reason.

It was an experiment.

I've wanted to use a primer that looked similar to zinc chromate on several models that would have had alloy bodies in reality. I've used a hot self-etch green primer before, and found that though it might craze terribly, it was also easy to correct with some effort.

I've also seen the arguments about "red bleed" for years on all the forums.

So since I had two red bodies from different manufacturers, I decided to see 1) if either or both of them would craze, and 2) if either or both would bleed.

The results: One bled, one crazed. The one that crazed didn't bleed, and the one that bled didn't craze.

The morals of the story: 

1) all kit styrene IS NOT CREATED EQUAL

2) red-bleed IS A REAL THING and not a myth as some insist

3)  TEST FIRST.  

 

Edited May 2, 2023 by Ace-Garageguy