stevez Posted March 15, 2023 Posted March 15, 2023 Anything more tidy than epoxy or CA ? I often use Elmer. Something water based that can be easily cleaned up if you put too much on?
ctruss53 Posted March 15, 2023 Posted March 15, 2023 I am still using a bottle of Model Master cement with the metal needle applicator on painted parts. But it will run out soon. I have purchased some new Revell Contacta Professional which seems to work very well. Problem with the Revell glue is the metal applicator needle doesn't stay in the bottle. Two bottles have done this to me now, I have had to return them both. Now I am using the classic Testors tube glue. I dispense some onto a scrap piece of cardboard and apply it with a toothpick. This classic glue works very well on painted parts. Testors is also available as a bottle with a brush. I will probably buy some of that too.
tbill Posted March 15, 2023 Posted March 15, 2023 For me, it all depends on what I’m attaching. In my arsenal I have, testors liquid glue ( black bottle/red label), testors clear glue (white/clear bottle/blue label), evergreen canopy glue, and CA glue/thick. Again, depends on what I’m trying to attach, and to where/what
presnell Posted March 15, 2023 Posted March 15, 2023 I use G-S Hypo cement it comes in a small tube and it's not very costly and Amazon has it. It will fog behind a head light lens.
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 15, 2023 Posted March 15, 2023 I pre-pin anything that will have to go on a painted body, then use PVA (white glue) to hold it from falling off. PVA also works great for me on things like chrome valve covers on painted cylinder heads. It's not like models are going to be subject to the abuse that children's toys get, so it just doesn't require a lot to hold them together.
Rodent Posted March 16, 2023 Posted March 16, 2023 2 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said: It's not like models are going to be subject to the abuse that children's toys get, so it just doesn't require a lot to hold them together. You never saw my mother dusting Dad's Monogram Duesenberg, AMT '49 Ford, or Monogram Big T. She dished out more abuse than I would have if I had been allowed to play with them. 2
Bills72sj Posted March 16, 2023 Posted March 16, 2023 I have a number of glues I use. I tend to avoid direct adhesion on painted surfaces. I almost always scrape the surfaces to be joined down to bare plastic. Except for photo-etch onto painted surfaces. For that I use Future/Pledge floor finish. Below is my arsenal. I have heard clear 2 part epoxy works well but have not gone down that path.
NOBLNG Posted March 16, 2023 Posted March 16, 2023 (edited) Like Ace said, i try to pre-pin mirrors and door handles etc. Then I use a very tiny bit of thick CA on the pin for final installation. I’d be really careful with that Testors tube glue around painted bodies….it likes to create strings.? Edited March 16, 2023 by NOBLNG 1
Pierre Rivard Posted March 16, 2023 Posted March 16, 2023 Some parts like side mirrors, door handles work best when a pin is added so bonding from the inside of the body, away from the painted surface creates a clean joint. I use 5 min epoxy for this. When that method is not possible I glue the painted, clear or chromed part with Canopy Glue.
Bainford Posted March 16, 2023 Posted March 16, 2023 45 minutes ago, Pierre Rivard said: Some parts like side mirrors, door handles work best when a pin is added so bonding from the inside of the body, away from the painted surface creates a clean joint. I use 5 min epoxy for this. When that method is not possible I glue the painted, clear or chromed part with Canopy Glue. Ditto
peteski Posted March 16, 2023 Posted March 16, 2023 I avoid gluing painted parts by: 1 - Pinning parts (I install the pin and drill the hole before painting. f the smaller pinned part is to be painted I mask the pin with liquid mask before painting the part. 2 - Mask the glued area with liquid mask before painting. 3 - Scrape the paint off before gluing. I rarely use number 3 since I test fit and prep parts before painting.
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