JLE Scale Models (ex-Hubley?) -- what are they made of?

[Matt Bacon]

Hi, all... Picked up a "JLE Scale Models" Packard Roadster kit for a very reasonable £20 on the UK 'bay. I understand that they are Hubley re-pops/re-packages. My question is what are they made of? Are they Zamak die-cast alloy? The cast metal parts (which have a fair bit of flash) are a lot harder/sharper than the white metal of the Finescale 1/24 kits I've had some experience with. With those, I could use regular modelling knives/tools, but this JLE kit seems like I should prep the Proxxon and buy some harder files...

It looks like it'll build up into a nice and detailed model, but a lot of clean-up may be required before I get to that stage!

 

best,

M.

[peteski]

I believe that Finescale metal kits are cast out of pewter, which is a very soft metal which can be carved/trimmed with a knife.

White metal (Zamak is one of its trade names) is a zinc and aluminum based alloy, which is much harder than pewter.  It is the same metal diecast model companies use for their finished models.  Yes, you will needed to use files and rotary tools like Proxxon or Dremel when working on Zamak.  And the original Hubley model kits were also made of Zamak.

[Matt Bacon]

Thanks, @peteski At last, something the Proxxon is built for  -- it spins too fast for most plastic modelling uses, in my experience (I have it because it was on sale very affordably, and I figured one day it was bound to come in useful for something....).

best,

M.

[Mike 1017]

Tip. Wear safety glasses and a face mask.While working on die cast

[Matt Bacon]

4 hours ago, Mike 1017 said:

Tip. Wear safety glasses and a face mask.While working on die cast

Thank you. Will a clear face shield do the job (ie it's about chips and fragments), or do I need to wear my painting respirator (because it's poisonous)?

best,

M.

[Mike 1017]

20 hours ago, Matt Bacon said:

Thank you. Will a clear face shield do the job (ie it's about chips and fragments), or do I need to wear my painting respirator (because it's poisonous)?

best,

M.

You don't want to breath in metal dust particles.

[Bugatti Fan]

I built the Hubley Duesenberg SJ  and the flash I had to clean off was awful. Eye protection and one of those old disposable covid masks should be enough against bits you grind off. A good set of small warding files will be a good supplement to using the Dremel.

The old Hubley kits were with a few exceptions mainly Zamak metal that die casts are made from and plastic. Unpainted Zamac should not cause any toxicity problems when ground. Incidentally the Monogram Metal Master car kits were similar in having Zamak bodywork and the rest in plastic.

Wills (South Eastern Finecast) and many other kits were made in White Metal that is very soft compared to the die cast metal ones.

[Dave G.]

To me if to use a rotary power tool I'd get it close and file the rest of the way. It would be nice if someone made a rotary oscillating sander scaled for models to follow up on the filing with. But hand sanding will do on the final as well..

Your thread reminds me of the Mercedes metal kit I had that someone unpleasantly scoffed from me in my younger years, first married not much money, the kit had been gifted to me. That incident has left a bit of a mar in my thought process of metal car kits though I did go on to build a few HO locomotives. Plastic auto models mostly has pleasant memories associated with them so I kind of hover there. I did do a Model A in metal, the metal flashing of which was pretty hard as I recall. Many moons ago, a vague memory, I don't recall the manufacturer.

Finally a dust mask should do just to not suck in metal dust. I have a full face shield so personally would use that for grinding and power sanding etc.