MCW Finishes

[Ace-Garageguy]

Metallics and pearls are prone to streaking with improper application, period, and on real cars just as much as models.

Airbrush (or spray gun) adjustment and technique are critical.

Air pressure too high can blow the center out of the pattern, leaving the edges too wet, resulting in streaks.

Poor or inconsistent overlap of passes can cause streaks, and jerky movements can cause blotches.

Shooting the stuff too wet can cause local pooling or puddling, leading to streaks and blotches.

Shooting from too far away, or too dry, can make a grainy texture that will look horrible under your clear.

Like everything worth doing, learning to shoot metallics is a learned skill, and you learn to do it by doing it.

Best to practice on something other than the model you want to get right the first time.

Spare bodies, or small plastic soda bottles, scuffed and primed with the primer you'll use on the model, make excellent practice targets to learn how to shoot blotch-and-streak-free metallics and pearls.

 

[SfanGoch]

Common sense prevails.

[SfanGoch]

2 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Like everything worth doing, learning to shoot metallics is a learned skill, and you learn to do it by doing it.

Best to practice on something other than the model you want to get right the first time.

Bada-bing, Bada-boom, brother!

Also, don't attempt to polish out a substandard spray job. Strip it clean and start over. Polishing has the effect of causing the metallic particles to displace and move in unwanted patterns.

[StevenGuthmiller]

52 minutes ago, SfanGoch said:

Bada-bing, Bada-boom, brother!

Also, don't attempt to polish out a substandard spray job. Strip it clean and start over. Polishing has the effect of causing the metallic particles to displace and move in unwanted patterns.

Absolutely not.

Now you can sand and add another color coat, or polish after clear coats have been added, but Joe’s right.

I don’t think a lot of people realize that trying to sand and polish some types of metallic paint can just make a mess out of it.

 

 

 

Steve

[bluestringer]

4 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Metallics and pearls are prone to streaking with improper application, period, and on real cars just as much as models.

Airbrush (or spray gun) adjustment and technique are critical.

Air pressure too high can blow the center out of the pattern, leaving the edges too wet, resulting in streaks.

Poor or inconsistent overlap of passes can cause streaks, and jerky movements can cause blotches.

Shooting the stuff too wet can cause local pooling or puddling, leading to streaks and blotches.

Shooting from too far away, or too dry, can make a grainy texture that will look horrible under your clear.

Like everything worth doing, learning to shoot metallics is a learned skill, and you learn to do it by doing it.

Best to practice on something other than the model you want to get right the first time.

Spare bodies, or small plastic soda bottles, scuffed and primed with the primer you'll use on the model, make excellent practice targets to learn how to shoot blotch-and-streak-free metallics and pearls.

 

Thanks Bill. Thing is I have shot metallics before and all went well. The first time I shot a metallic it didn't go well but I adjusted and I thought I had it right. So I shot it like I have always shot a metallic. The only difference was this was a lacquer and I've never shot a lacquer, lesson learned.

[CabDriver]

7 hours ago, ctruss53 said:

And I have even accidentally sprayed them through an airbrush without even thining them. They are that forgiving.

I've intentionally sprayed them through an airbrush without thinning them probably 100 times 😁

You're right - works just fine!

[bluestringer]

10 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Absolutely not.

Now you can sand and add another color coat, or polish after clear coats have been added, but Joe’s right.

I don’t think a lot of people realize that trying to sand and polish some types of metallic paint can just make a mess out of it.

 

 

 

Steve

I sanded with 1500 and 3200 and it really smoothed it out quickly. It feels much smoother and looks better also. I did burn through some high spots so I will add another coat or two. I will try try to shoot a little closer, I am running the PSI around 30 already. Hopefully it will turn out ok and I can put on the clear.

[Dave G.]

Maybe do some test passes on a scrap part before laying it down on your project body. An old hood or side of an old body etc. Get pressure, speed of passes and distance worked out for yourself.

 

 

[SfanGoch]

This is comparable to the old joke, "How do I get to Carnegie Hall? Practice."

[Dave G.]

1 hour ago, SfanGoch said:

This is comparable to the old joke, "How do I get to Carnegie Hall? Practice."

Well the application of 1/1 hot lacquer surely is different from hobby lacquers. Indeed it's worth a few passes on something besides your prized model to get a feel for any new paint or paint system.

I'm hoping OP gets back with some good news personally !