Rust-oleum paint

[Straightliner59]

I have had an airbrush and compressor for about 40 years, now. I still use spray bombs, every chance I get, because I'm happy enough with the results for my racers (they certainly don't need to be show-car shiny), and I'm satisfied with the results they provide on things like chassis, engines, etc. I use them, because I'm lazy about painting. I don't care, either!? I do wish I knew why that Rustoleum garbage seems to be proliferating, while Krylon seems to be disappearing. Krylon is a far superior product!

[ctruss53]

I'd like to clarify why I always suggest spray paint designed for hobby use like Tamiya or Mr Hobby.

Rustoleum paint quality is totally fine. There is honestly nothing wrong with the paint itself. The problem is the spray can and the spray nozzle.

Rustoleum spray paint is designed to be used on large projects. So the paint is a little thicker, and the nozzle is designed to spray a higher quantity of paint. This is not suitable for small scale models. Sure, you can develop a technique to get away with using Rustoleum, but scale models are not the intended purpose for those spray cans.

Now when you buy spray cans designed for scale model use, like Tamiya, or Mr Hobby, you are buying a paint that is a little more thinned out, and most importantly, the nozzle on the spray can atomizes the paint better so less paint sprays out at once, and the particles are smaller.  This allows you to lay down a coat of paint that is more even and not too thick. And since you have more control, the results are easier to achieve and most importantly, easier to repeat.

Exterior paint is hard enough to get right. You are only making it harder to get right when you use paints like Rustoleum or Krylon that are not designed for scale model use.

And better atomizing and lower paint volumes are why people that want the most control over their paint eventually switch to airbrush. Because with an airbrush you get the best paint atomization, and you can control how much paint you are releasing into the air.

Edited May 3, 2023 by ctruss53

[bobthehobbyguy]

There may be some people that have had success using rustoleum however there are a lot of people who don't. One is still better off with starting with hobby paints.  Automotive paints are also an option but if used improperly you can ruin a kit easily with crazing. Lately there seems to be more people having paint issues because of mixing paint types and using Rustoleum.

If your goal is to save money buy airbrush as there is less waste.  Takes a bit of work to cleanup but you can get great results.

[StevenGuthmiller]

3 hours ago, ctruss53 said:

I'd like to clarify why I always suggest spray paint designed for hobby use like Tamiya or Mr Hobby.

Rustoleum paint quality is totally fine. There is honestly nothing wrong with the paint itself. The problem is the spray can and the spray nozzle.

Rustoleum spray paint is designed to be used on large projects. So the paint is a little thicker, and the nozzle is designed to spray a higher quantity of paint. This is not suitable for small scale models. Sure, you can develop a technique to get away with using Rustoleum, but scale models are not the intended purpose for those spray cans.

Now when you buy spray cans designed for scale model use, like Tamiya, or Mr Hobby, you are buying a paint that is a little more thinned out, and most importantly, the nozzle on the spray can atomizes the paint better so less paint sprays out at once, and the particles are smaller.  This allows you to lay down a coat of paint that is more even and not too thick. And since you have more control, the results are easier to achieve and most importantly, easier to repeat.

Exterior paint is hard enough to get right. You are only making it harder to get right when you use paints like Rustoleum or Krylon that are not designed for scale model use.

And better atomizing and lower paint volumes are why people that want the most control over their paint eventually switch to airbrush. Because with an airbrush you get the best paint atomization, and you can control how much paint you are releasing into the air.

Perfect!

In a nutshell, as has been stated often, Rustoleum paint is designed to be used on your lawn furniture, not a 1/25th scale model car body, so it only makes sense that it's going to be an inferior product for that purpose.

That said, with some mitigation, (ie, decanting and airbrushing, or my preferred method, buying the small cans of brushable paint and thinning to your taste) Rustoleum paint is nothing more than enamel paint, pretty much exactly as what comes in the small Testors bottles.

It's the formulation of the paint for a spray can, and the delivery system of these "home improvement" paints that is the problem.

Still, it's enamel, and I personally would never use it for bodies when there are so many better options.

 

 

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

59 minutes ago, bobthehobbyguy said:

There may be some people that have had success using rustoleum however there are a lot of people who don't. One is still better off with starting with hobby paints.  Automotive paints are also an option but if used improperly you can ruin a kit easily with crazing. Lately there seems to be more people having paint issues because of mixing paint types and using Rustoleum.

If your goal is to save money buy airbrush as there is less waste.  Takes a bit of work to cleanup but you can get great results.

I have to agree.

In the time that I spend on Facebook in various modeling groups, it's pretty much an hourly event to see posts of people trying to figure out why their paint jobs went south.

Invariably, it's almost a certainty that the paint culprit was one of these "bargain brand" paints.

I can't tell you that I've ever seen someone having paint issues when using good paint.

 

 

Steve

[SfanGoch]

58 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I can't tell you that I've ever seen someone having paint issues when using good paint.

It's more of a problem than an issue.

[SfanGoch]

20 hours ago, Dave G. said:

I use Stynylrez and have been for about 7 years now. It's smooth right from the bottle and thinning as you've mention all work. Here's one for you though, baby bottom smooth, egg shell sheen finishes thinning with Lacquer thinner.

Revell '62 Lancer GT and AMT/SMP '62 Tempest primed with Stynylrez Grey thinned with 70% IPA.

 

 

Unlike Mr. Hobby or Tamiya primers, Stynylrez won't come off if you wipe the parts with an alcohol-moistened tissue.

Edited May 3, 2023 by SfanGoch

[Dave G.]

Yes Joe, looking good !

[SfanGoch]

Thanks, Dave. Stynylrez is an excellent primer when using Scale Finish, MCW and other automotive quality lacquers. Absolutely bulletproof. It goes on and dries so smoothly that no sanding is required.

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 minutes ago, SfanGoch said:

Thanks, Dave. Stynylrez is an excellent primer when using Scale Finish, MCW and other automotive quality lacquers. Absolutely bulletproof. It goes on and dries so smoothly that no sanding is required.

I've never tried Stynylrez primer before, but after a quick look on eBay, and the prices there, I believe I'll stick with my Duplicolor.

I'm not cheap when it comes to paint, but at around 7 or 8 bucks for 2 oz. that's a little too rich for me for primer.

I could pretty easily burn through a 2 oz. bottle, if not more, on one project.

 

I'd be spending all of my spare time on line ordering primer!

 

 

Steve

[SfanGoch]

Fuhgeddabout ebay. USA Airbrush Supply has the 2oz bottles for $6.11. I purchased SNR-472 - Stynylrez Primer 18 Tone Pack 4oz. / 120ml a few years ago when it was on sale for about $140.

[ctruss53]

5 hours ago, SfanGoch said:

Revell '62 Lancer GT and AMT/SMP '62 Tempest primed with Stynylrez Grey thinned with 70% IPA.

 

 

Unlike Mr. Hobby or Tamiya primers, Stynylrez won't come off if you wipe the parts with an alcohol-moistened tissue.

Hmm, thats a good primer?

 

 

[SfanGoch]

I'd say so.

 

[Dave G.]

On 5/3/2023 at 7:21 PM, ctruss53 said:

Hmm, thats a good primer?

 

 

It is good primer. If you get into it though, I suggest right up front to get yourself some sort of power mixer if you don't have one ( I use the Badger hand held mixer, they're about $12 these days). Here's why, especially for colors you don't use often. In due time the solids settle and no amount of shaking or stick stirring puts it back together again, least no amount I have patience for . The power mixer does it in about 2 minutes. But worse than that you can't always see the sediment through the bottle sides, it can look fine and not be. There is nothing wrong with the primer and I think several bottles of the stuff has been tossed out by people not understanding that it does settle and not exactly easy to get back together without the mixer. I salvaged a bottle of black I was ready to toss, still using it, almost gone now. Once it's remixed it seems to stay suspended better too. Just passing on my experience with it and it's my primary primer now for about 7 years or so.

I use that or Mr Primer Surfacer. Notice I didn't say Mr Surfacer but Mr Primer Surfacer. According to their website there is a difference in these products.

[yh70]

On 5/2/2023 at 1:36 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

My biggest issue with Rustoleum paint is just the inconsistency and the awful spray cans.

I’ve found that it’s usually too thick to spray nicely, and the spray cans are nothing but trouble.

They would almost inevitably plug up on me after one use, which probably has something to do with the thick paint as well.

I don’t really care much what people use, but it’s undeniable that there are WAY better paints available to us than Rustoleum.

Especially if you graduate away from rattle cans to an airbrush.

Opens up a whole new world.

 

 

 

Steve

Rustoleum paint will spray thick if they cold. keep them in a warm room the day before u spray them (lot of builders dont build in side their home) as far as the tips plugging up or not spraying right after you have used them and they set up they is a phone number on the can you can call and ask for replacement spray tips . just tell then you are a model builder and you use their pants. she will ask you how many you want. i got 15 when i called. they free & free shipping..

[ctruss53]

If you want to keep the nozzle clean all you have to do is when you see the nozzle clogging up, turn the can upside down and give it a couple quick sprays to clear it out.

[StevenGuthmiller]

8 hours ago, yh70 said:

Rustoleum paint will spray thick if they cold. keep them in a warm room the day before u spray them (lot of builders dont build in side their home) as far as the tips plugging up or not spraying right after you have used them and they set up they is a phone number on the can you can call and ask for replacement spray tips . just tell then you are a model builder and you use their pants. she will ask you how many you want. i got 15 when i called. they free & free shipping..

It’s easier just not to use them.

 

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

8 hours ago, ctruss53 said:

If you want to keep the nozzle clean all you have to do is when you see the nozzle clogging up, turn the can upside down and give it a couple quick sprays to clear it out.

Yes, I know how to clean a spray can nozzle.

They plug up on me in spite of it.

 

 

Steve

[Chariots of Fire]

I found Rustoleum paints to be no good for model building.  Paint is too thick, whereas paints like the new Testors go on in a nice fine spray.  I don't use an air brush for the most part.  Last cans of Rustoleum I bought for other purposes was junk.  Large nozzle just would not work after the first spray, even though I cleaned it out.  No more R-eum for me.

[OldNYJim]

4 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Yes, I know how to clean a spray can nozzle.

They plug up on me in spite of it.

 

 

Steve

Me too - I’ve had a bunch of trouble with Rusto cans doing that to me in the past.

Which is a pity because they’re usually fairly cheap and readily available.

My favorite primer was/is the $2 a can stuff that Walmart used to carry, in the blue cans.  Haven’t seen that for sale for a while, and getting dangerously low, but it was thin, never flaked or peeled and the gray was such a light gray it didn’t affect anything if I was painting a light color over top of it.

I need to find more of that stuff…

[StevenGuthmiller]

I’m of the impression that Rustoleum spray cans were apparently designed for “one shot” use.

Spray your lawn chair, and then throw the can out. ?

 

 

 

Steve

[ctruss53]

16 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Yes, I know how to clean a spray can nozzle.

They plug up on me in spite of it.

 

 

Steve

I know you know.

I was telling someone else.

[SfanGoch]

OT, my old friend Mikey Yugo once repainted his car using a paint roller which imparted an interesting stucco-like texture.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, SfanGoch said:

OT, my old friend Mikey Yugo once repainted his car using a paint roller which imparted an interesting stucco-like texture.

My father once did that with a 1953 Chevy.

Except he did it old school.

He used a brush! 
 

 

 

 

Steve

[Bainford]

26 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

My father once did that with a 1953 Chevy.

Except he did it old school.

He used a brush! 
 

 

 

 

Steve

Back in the 80s there was a fellow in my hometown with a '71 Mustang that he painted with a vacuum cleaner. The texture was not unlike that of the roller paint job. I strongly suspect that he used house paint.

Back in the good ole days you could buy spraying equipment that fitted to the outlet of a vacuum cleaner. Not so great for cars, but fine for throwing some paint at the lattice work on the deck, etc. Ah, the days of simple innovation.

Edited May 12, 2023 by Bainford