amt car models how to paint

[Milo]

How do I paint an amt car model? I got a nice corvette, but all the pieces are bright orange. Do I need to prime all the pieces with white before painting, or will the paint just cover it up?

[StevenGuthmiller]

13 minutes ago, Milo said:

How do I paint an amt car model? I got a nice corvette, but all the pieces are bright orange. Do I need to prime all the pieces with white before painting, or will the paint just cover it up?

Definitely need to prime!

And prime well.

 

I would start with a good gray primer and probably a primer sealer before considering a white primer.

 

I haven't had a lot of experience with models molded in orange or red, although I've had success with blues and yellows, but my understanding is red and orange are the worst for bleed through.

 

I would use a couple of coats of good gray lacquer primer, and then a few more light coats of primer sealer.

I use mostly automotive lacquers, so I wouldn't be afraid to tackle this, but a good base of primer would absolutely be a must.

 

 

Steve

[Milo]

Wont that make the pieces so thick? After multiple coats of primer and then a paint coat? I'll never be able to fit the pieces where they belong. I have enough trouble trying to get the pieces in place with only one coat just paint. 

Also, what does the primer sealer do?

Also, how can I get the clear plastic to stick to regular plastic? I tried the usual enamel glue, and then I tried elmer's because someone said that worked. Neither of these stuck the windshield to where it belonged. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

42 minutes ago, Milo said:

Wont that make the pieces so thick? After multiple coats of primer and then a paint coat? I'll never be able to fit the pieces where they belong. I have enough trouble trying to get the pieces in place with only one coat just paint. 

Also, what does the primer sealer do?

Also, how can I get the clear plastic to stick to regular plastic? I tried the usual enamel glue, and then I tried elmer's because someone said that worked. Neither of these stuck the windshield to where it belonged. 

If you're using good primer, (I use mainly Duplicolor) there won't be any excess thickness to speak of.

Likewise, lacquer paints will go on much thinner than enamel, which is a small part of why I use lacquers.

They dry so much faster and thinner, and the color availability is endless.

 

Primer sealer is just what it says.

It seals whatever is underneath it in place to prevent bleed through and it also helps with the gloss of the paint coats.

 

There are many viable glues to adhere parts, whether they're clear or not.

Personally, I use clear 2-part, 5 minute epoxy for nearly everything.

 

The hobby has made great strides and advances since the days of tube glue and rattle can enamels, but I'm sorry to say that it can take years, or even decades, to find the right procedures that work for you.

 

Just as an illustration about paint thickness, take as an example my current '64 Bonneville project.

This model has 5 coats of lacquer primer/sealer, 5 or 6 coats of color, (lacquer) and another 5 coats of clear lacquer.

There is no heavy paint build up or detail hide whatsoever.

 

The materials you use are the true measure of whether or not you will have success.

Just as much so as the techniques or processes that you use.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

Edited May 31, 2023 by StevenGuthmiller

[Milo]

Wow, that looks incredible. Do you spray or brush everything? Also how do you mask so well for the paint job?

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Milo said:

Wow, that looks incredible. Do you spray or brush everything? Also how do you mask so well for the paint job?

I brush paint almost nothing.

Everything is sprayed, either with an airbrush, or spray can.

There was virtually no masking on the body depicted, except for the black area on the radiator shroud.

The rest is foil, most of which is applied after the paint process is finished.

 

But be aware, I'm not getting these results straight from the airbrush or can.

I always cut and polish my projects to get the finest finish possible.

 

 

 

Steve

[karbuildr]

I completely agree with what Steve's written. Both these in-progress kits were painted using a very similar technique to what he's described. I would add that patience is the key to a good quality paint job. Don't rush it, take your time with each step. The candy blue Camaro has 4 coats of two different blue colors, plus 3 coats of clear. You can just see inside the Camaro that the original color of the plastic is red. The candy red 57 Chevy has a similar amount of clear red over a gold base and 3 coats of clear. The paints and clear coats are lacquers as well.

 

[Sidney Schwartz]

7 hours ago, Milo said:

Wont that make the pieces so thick? After multiple coats of primer and then a paint coat?

Also, how can I get the clear plastic to stick to regular plastic? I tried the usual enamel glue, and then I tried elmer's because someone said that worked. Neither of these stuck the windshield to where it belonged. 

There are a couple of ways to deal with paint that may make it difficult to fit parts together for gluing. One, prior to painting you can mask the places where the pieces join so they will not be painted, for example pins and the holes the fit in to. I've used masking fluid for this and it works pretty well. Two, you can skip masking and then scrape the paint off as necessary when gluing parts together. In my experience both methods take about the same amount of time and trouble. These days I usually go with scraping after painting.

Elmers should work for clear parts. Or there's something called "canopy glue" which is very similar. I've used both. Keep in mind that parts joined with pretty much any kind of glue will separate if  subjected to enough stress. Once parts are glued they should be handled carefully. CA glue ("super glue") is used by many of us, but you have to be very careful using it with clear parts to not get it where it will show. The nice thing about Elmers and other white glues is that they are usually very easy to remove from where you don't want them.

Painting is an art in itself and will take time and experimentation to learn. There are hundreds of Youtube videos that teach all aspects of model building. I strongly recommend that you watch some videos that explain how to use different types of paint and methods of applying it. My own preference is to spray everything except for very small parts. I use rattle cans and an airbrush. Which one I use depends on the type of paint I find that is the color I want. Also look for videos on the many different types of glues and how and when to use them.

Try not to worry about mistakes. You'll make them, and with experience you'll make fewer of them. Your skills will improve with each model.

[Dpate]

8 hours ago, Milo said:

Wont that make the pieces so thick? After multiple coats of primer and then a paint coat? I'll never be able to fit the pieces where they belong. I have enough trouble trying to get the pieces in place with only one coat just paint. 

Also, what does the primer sealer do?

Also, how can I get the clear plastic to stick to regular plastic? I tried the usual enamel glue, and then I tried elmer's because someone said that worked. Neither of these stuck the windshield to where it belonged. 

If you’re having trouble getting parts to fit with one coat paint? Then I’d dare say you missed one of the most important steps in the hobby, and even instructions will tell you this. ALWAYS test fit parts before you prime or paint. Could be something needs cleaning I.e mold lines, flash, pin marks protruding a little. One coat of paint shouldn’t prevent parts fitting properly- unless it’s too thick or just bad fitting parts if it isn’t flash etc. Also grey primer is your friend to show all imperfections etc on the part.  Doesn’t take much to show, and allows you to double check your clean up work. 

Edited June 1, 2023 by Dpate

[ctruss53]

I learned a great trick for when the parts are molded in a loud color that will bleed through paint.

Apply a couple light coats of silver paint first. Then a light primer coat. Then paint.

I can't explain why that works, but it works.  I do this when a model is molded in a bright yellow, orange, or red color and I plan on painting is a completely different color. I also do this when a model is molded in black and I want to paint it a bright color.

[Straightliner59]

Zinsser BIN works great to both protect plastic from solvents, and to prevent color bleed-through, from plastic. I use it straight from the rattlecan. Sidney Schwartz, above gave some excellent advice, toward getting started! Main thing is: HAVE FUN!

[Milo]

Do you use enamel paints and primer or lacquer?

Do you need to thin lacquer and primer for airbrushing?

Edited June 1, 2023 by Milo

[Sidney Schwartz]

27 minutes ago, Milo said:

Do you use enamel paints and primer or lacquer?

Do you need to thin lacquer and primer for airbrushing?

If you ask five modelers a question, you'll get at least eight opinions. This is especially true when it comes to paints. ? You'll find what works best for you by trying various options.

I don't care for enamels. I use either acrylics or lacquers. I always use primer. Before painting I always soak the parts in soapy water, rinse and dry. This is because the molding process leaves residue on the plastic. Here are some of the paints I regularly use.

1. For primer I use Krylon grey and white in spray cans. Very fine grained so detail is preserved. Dries almost instantly. Easy to fined. Can't think of a reason to use anything else.

2. Tamiya spray lacquers. Pretty much perfect, except for the odor typical of lacquers. I usually get excellent results. A good selection of colors. Rattle cans in general are the easiest to use.

3. Acrylic craft paints. Advantages are no odor, a staggering array of colors, and low cost. I buy these for around $1 to $3 in 2 ounce bottles...enough for several models. These are thinned and sprayed through an airbrush, so more time consuming than rattle cans. Since they are water based you can thin them with water, but I use Vallejo airbrush thinner. Getting the paint thinned properly so it sprays well is a bit of an art, but I've gotten pretty good at it. This is craft paint with a polished clear coat...

4. Clear coat. My preference here is Krylon Crystal Clear acrylic in a rattle can. Tamiya's clear coat spray also works fine. 

5. Sanding/Polishing. I've been using the small foam backed sanding pads, starting with 3200 or 3600 grit, working up to 12000 grit, and finishing with the Novus polishes.

Hopes this helps. If you want to start and endless debate, ask about chrome. ?

[Milo]

For airbrushing and spray cans, do I need a ventilated area? I just use my garage near the opening to let some fresh air flow, I also don't wear a mask. Once finished I just leave it there for an hour or two before bringing it back in. Is that safe?

Also how do you do the foil for the little trims around the windows and where do I get it?

[karbuildr]

I would advise painting in a well ventilated area for sure. Additionally, wear a mask, always. I use a 3M paint mask with filters that can be changed when necessary. Below is a mask very similar to what I use. The foil is by a company called Bare Metal Foil. It should be available everywhere, local hobby shops, online hobby shops, etc.

 

[atomicholiday]

1 hour ago, Milo said:

For airbrushing and spray cans, do I need a ventilated area? I just use my garage near the opening to let some fresh air flow, I also don't wear a mask. Once finished I just leave it there for an hour or two before bringing it back in. Is that safe?

Also how do you do the foil for the little trims around the windows and where do I get it?

You should definitely wear a mask.  Something specifically designed for painting (not like a covid mask).  Even paining outside, I recommend it.  I paint outside exclusively, and I can’t tell you how many times a breeze has shifted and blown the overspray back at me.

Your health is far more important than a good paint job.?

[Sidney Schwartz]

4 hours ago, Milo said:

For airbrushing and spray cans, do I need a ventilated area? I just use my garage near the opening to let some fresh air flow, I also don't wear a mask. Once finished I just leave it there for an hour or two before bringing it back in. Is that safe?

Also how do you do the foil for the little trims around the windows and where do I get it?

I got tired of spraying in my garage, or outside if the weather permitted, and bought one of these...

Amazon.com: Anesty Airbrush Spray Booth with Bright LED Lights Turn Table Hose and Extra Replacement Filter, Portable Paint Booth Can be Used with LEDs Only ASPB01 : Arts, Crafts & Sewing

Probably the most expensive item I've bought for modeling next to an airbrush and compressor, but well worth it. It eliminates all overspray and much of the odor. I also have an exhaust fan in one the windows that I turn on when spraying.

I mostly use Bare Metal Foil (BMF) for chrome trim, and also chrome paint or markers for touch-ups. You can get the BMF here...

Bare-Metal Foil, Silicone Mold Rubber, Polyurethane Mold Rubber, Casting Resin

...if you can't find it locally. This is another subject on which you'll find many Youtube videos explaining various options, how they compare, and how to use them. I like the result I get with BMF, but it took me a while to get the hang of applying it. I'm still not great at it, but I get better with time. That's BMF I used in the pic I posted above.

 

[Sidney Schwartz]

2 hours ago, atomicholiday said:

Your health is far more important than a good paint job.?

Well that's just weird. ?

[atomicholiday]

22 minutes ago, Sidney Schwartz said:

Well that's just weird. ?

It's pretty close though...?

[Milo]

I was using a spray can to apply some testors lacquer gloss for a last layer but it started to eat away at my paint job, the back of my car is loosing it's color and so is the hood. Why is this?

[atomicholiday]

Specifically what type of paint is your color coat and clear coat?  Sounds like they aren’t compatible.  Like maybe color coat is enamel and clear is lacquer?

[Milo]

Yes, I have enamel paint but lacquer clear coat. I didn't know these weren't compatible.

[atomicholiday]

It depends on a few things.   You said you used Testors clear lacquer.   It's relatively mild compared to automotive paint.  But if you sprayed it too heavy you could have problems.

What brand of enamel paint is your color coat?

Also, can you post pictures of the paint job? 

 

Edited June 2, 2023 by atomicholiday

[Milo]

No, I've given up on the model, I'm just going to start fresh on a new one.

How do I clean the flash off on the fenders and under the tail lights?

[ctruss53]

On 6/1/2023 at 11:42 AM, Milo said:

Do you use enamel paints and primer or lacquer?

Do you need to thin lacquer and primer for airbrushing?

I don't bother with enamels.  I mean enamels are fine, they just take forever to dry.

I tend to use lacquers on the car body, mainly because when I buy specialty colors from MCW or Splash, they sell them to me as lacquer and they are ready to shoot in an airbrush. But I aso really like Tamiya TS spray cans. They always do a great job. So good that if Tamiya has a TS color that suits my needs I'll buy that instead of using my airbrush.

For the bits and pieces, I use Tamoya acryllics mainly. Brush them on and clean my brushes with water. Easy peasy. I do have some other various acryllics as well from Mission Models, and Vallejo. Again, they are mainly just used with a paint brush on parts.

For primer, I always use Tamiya fine surface white primer, or Mr Surfacer 1500 black primer. These are in spray cans and are hands down the best primers around. They apply nice and smooth, dry super fast, and I have yet to find a paint I can't use on top of them. I keep a few spray cans of each on hand at all times.

And for clearcoat I have two options. I almost always use Mr Super Clear UV Cut in a spray can.  This stuff is amazing! The other clearcoat I use when I am in the mood is Splash 2k clear. Also an excellent product. If you want to take the time to mix it up and clean out your airbrush right afterwards.

 

Someone was talking about the fumes.

First, it is a fact. Paint fumes are bad for you. However, if you paint outside of you have a properly engineered paint booth that can suck away nearly all of the fumes, you are fine. You don't NEED a mask.  Now if you do this all day, every day, sure, wear a mask.  But if you only spray paint a couple times a month, or once a week, you are not doing it often enough to do any harm.

I have been spray painting things for 40 years without a mask. I'm a Mechanical Engineer.  My brain works still. But you can insert a joke about that if you want.  haha

Edited June 3, 2023 by ctruss53