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How do I save this, or how do I strip and restart?


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For me, I usually strip the paint and start again if I'm not happy with the paint job. As a rule, the prep work is almost more important than the actual paint. I have built several and missed mold lines or scratches and not seen them until after the paint was done. I'd say maybe dunk it in the purple pond and try again if you're not happy with the results. The other option is to try to wet sand or polish the paint.

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35 minutes ago, Milo said:

It's just white paint from a spray can

Oh, okay. You'll definitely need to prime that first, especially if you want to paint it white..... There's a bunch of threads in this section of folks trying to cover red plastic.

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Strip it ans start over.

And since the body is molded in a "loud" color like red. Apply silver paint as your primer. I can't explain why, but silver paint does a great job at "muting" loud colored plastic.

Just apply like two very light coats of silver paint to kill the plastic color. You can apply primer over the silver paint if you want, but I have found that if you sand the silver paint lightly with 1000 grit, it acts just fine as a primer.

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Milo, the stripping medium heavily depends on the type of paint: enamel (alkyd), acrylic or lacquer. So check that spray can to see what paint you're dealing with.

My best suggestion is to use an ultrasonic cleaner if you have one. I wrote an article about it:

https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/ultrasonic.htm

Other already mentioned that red plastic can cause problems. The root cause is that the red dye in the plastic is disolved in the solvents of the paint, and will turn your paint color reddish. Judging from your photos, this did not happen with your model, which makes me think the spray can contained water-based acrylic paint.

Rob

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I used to use Testors metallic silver enamel years ago almost exclusively as a primer.

But it became evident as time went on that nothing stuck to it very well, and as long as you didn't mind the color coats peeling off with the masking tape in huge sheets, it was a great primer!

 

My suggestion, if you decide to try silver paint, is to choose something else. ;)

 

 

 

 

Steve

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7 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I used to use Testors metallic silver enamel years ago almost exclusively as a primer.

But it became evident as time went on that nothing stuck to it very well, and as long as you didn't mind the color coats peeling off with the masking tape in huge sheets, it was a great primer!

My suggestion, if you decide to try silver paint, is to choose something else. ;)

Steve

I keep a couple cans of Tamiya TS-30 Silver Leaf on hand at all times for this colored plastic issue.  It mutes loud colors and also works on black plastic if you want to paint the car a much lighter color.

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11 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

I haven’t tried the silver paint as a sealer, but I have used this. It works great for sealing any bleed through.

IMG_6321.jpeg

How is the BIN with small details? I fear it burying details.

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3 hours ago, ctruss53 said:

I keep a couple cans of Tamiya TS-30 Silver Leaf on hand at all times for this colored plastic issue.  It mutes loud colors and also works on black plastic if you want to paint the car a much lighter color.

Yup.

The Testors silver enamel worked in much the same way.

But it wasn't very stable.

Almost a chalky like surface that another coat of a colored enamel wouldn't bite into.

It was for that reason that the coats applied after the silver were basically just floating on top and the adhesion was very poor.

 

My assumption is that a different silver would work much better.

 

 

 

Steve

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11 hours ago, iBorg said:

How is the BIN with small details? I fear it burying details.

I haven’t used it on anything with script myself. It works best if airbrushed. I don’t recall if I thinned it but I read on here somewhere that IPA will work. I bought a quart can of it rather than the spray can. It does need a primer underneath it.

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