MCW(Model Car World) Enamels

[crowe-t]

How are the MCW(Model Car World) Enamels?  Do they require a lot of polishing?  Is the clear enamel good?

Mike Guest who owns MCW said they don't yellow.

I was never a fan of enamels mostly due to them yellowing but I'm considering trying the MCW Enamels.

[Dave G.]

This is a video done back when the MCW enamels were first being released. Donn is a respected model car painter, has won many contests with his paint jobs and primarily an enamel user.. Won't do any harm to watch the video. It probably won't embed but just click the link ( wow surprising it did embed). 

 

[karbuildr]

I've used them a number of years ago. I have not used any since the company changed hands. As I recall, they airbrushed very nicely, dried much faster than Testors enamels, and didn't need a clear coat. I polished with Novus #2. I'm sure if Mr. Guest tells you his clear won't yellow, he's correct. I've always been a fan of enamels and at some point in the future I'll try them again.

[Dave G.]

I suspect the clear MCW uses for the enamel line is a 1K clear, not truly enamel then if so. I don't think it's 2K but could be. You would have to ask though, don't go just on my word.

When I use enamel, regardless what brand, it's generally for an old classic car like 1950s on back into pre teens era.. I don't use clear on those if to use enamel. To me it's pretty much ready to display as shot if done right and all turns out successfully. But these days I'm using more acrylics than I am solvent paints. Base coating with acrylic or lacquer probably would need the clear in my case unless it's a true gloss like Tamiya products. Then I can just buff it up.

[Jim B]

I used MCW enamel to paint the engine on my MPC 1978 Dodge D100, and I had a hell of a time with the paint.  I'm sure part of the issue is that I was brush painting with it, and it's probably formulated to airbrush; but I cannot confirm that.  Good luck with them, but I don't think I'll be using them in the near future.

Why do model companies assume that everyone has an airbrush?  At least it seems that way,

[Dave G.]

7 hours ago, Jim B said:

I used MCW enamel to paint the engine on my MPC 1978 Dodge D100, and I had a hell of a time with the paint.  I'm sure part of the issue is that I was brush painting with it, and it's probably formulated to airbrush; but I cannot confirm that.  Good luck with them, but I don't think I'll be using them in the near future.

Why do model companies assume that everyone has an airbrush?  At least it seems that way,

It sounds like you had their lacquer which is pre thinned for airbrushing and basically brush paints lousy.. The enamel is not thinned, it should brush paint fine.

[Nicholas]

i use MCW paints as my go to paints,mostly the enamel line,i also use their hardner with it always drys within 24 hrs,..not forever and a day like the old testor ,i dont use a dehydrator either i use there 1-k clear,and also add hardner to that,..gives a wicked shine/finish!,..the mcw enamel paints come out so well for me that sometimes i dont need clear,and do not clear it after paint,hope this helps.

[Jim B]

6 hours ago, Dave G. said:

It sounds like you had their lacquer which is pre thinned for airbrushing and basically brush paints lousy.. The enamel is not thinned, it should brush paint fine.

It's possible, I don't know as this was the first time I've ever used MCW paints. The paint was 1402E Chrysler Engine Blue. I'll probably give it one more shot on the Slant-6 on my Lindberg 1964 Dodge 330.

Edited July 24, 2023 by Jim B

[Dave G.]

5 hours ago, Nicholas said:

i use MCW paints as my go to paints,mostly the enamel line,i also use their hardner with it always drys within 24 hrs,..not forever and a day like the old testor ,i dont use a dehydrator either i use there 1-k clear,and also add hardner to that,..gives a wicked shine/finish!,..the mcw enamel paints come out so well for me that sometimes i dont need clear,and do not clear it after paint,hope this helps.

I find that gloss "as shot" pretty much to be the case with most enamels, even decanted and airbrushed Rustoleum 2X. The key is to mix it and put it on right. However, I will say that if I recall correctly, the MCW enamel is solvent based acrylic automotive enamel ( not to be confused with waterborne enamel acrylics in any way). But it's not the old alkyd enamel either.

 

[Dave G.]

14 hours ago, Jim B said:

I used MCW enamel to paint the engine on my MPC 1978 Dodge D100, and I had a hell of a time with the paint.  I'm sure part of the issue is that I was brush painting with it, and it's probably formulated to airbrush; but I cannot confirm that.  Good luck with them, but I don't think I'll be using them in the near future.

Why do model companies assume that everyone has an airbrush?  At least it seems that way,

I've used the MCW lacquer and it sprays fine. I made the mistake of leaving rumble seat underside and door jams for brushing on a 1/16 model A . 3 coats later it still wasn't truly covered well is best I can say. Now that was maybe 3 years ago and I know MCW went through a time where the lacquers were mixed a bit extra thin, so maybe that's what I got.

Edited July 24, 2023 by Dave G.

[Nicholas]

39 minutes ago, Jim B said:

It's possible, I don't know as this was the first time I've ever used MCW paints. The paint was 1402E Chrysler Engine Blue. I'll probably give it one more shot on the Slant-6 on my Lindberg 1964 Dodge 330.

the part number you gave is a enamel as by the letter E after the part number i have hand brushed their enamel line and it works great (mostly interior stuff),never tried to hand brush a body though

[Jim B]

3 hours ago, Nicholas said:

the part number you gave is a enamel as by the letter E after the part number i have hand brushed their enamel line and it works great (mostly interior stuff),never tried to hand brush a body though

I didn't use it to brush paint a body. I used it to paint an engine. 

[Dave G.]

1 hour ago, Jim B said:

I didn't use it to brush paint a body. I used it to paint an engine. 

If you used enamel straight up then next time try cutting it with about 30% mineral spirits for brushing. It should level nicely and lap strokes should blend well. At least so if it's like other enamels.

[Jim B]

1 minute ago, Dave G. said:

If you used enamel straight up then next time try cutting it with about 30% mineral spirits for brushing. It should level nicely and lap strokes should blend well. At least so if it's like other enamels.

I'll give that a try next time. Couldn't hurt.

[Nicholas]

12 hours ago, Dave G. said:

If you used enamel straight up then next time try cutting it with about 30% mineral spirits for brushing. It should level nicely and lap strokes should blend well. At least so if it's like other enamels.

i would not cut MCW enamels with mineral spirit,as a matter of fact they dont recommend you use mineral spirits,i use lacquer thinner,store bough cheapo stuff,or my go to is mr color levelling thinner

[64SS350]

If you go to his website, this is under the download section of the drop-down menu...

 

[Dave G.]

That's why I said to check first because to my knowledge this is automotive acrylic enamel . The point is to cut it, I almost said lacquer thinner instead of mineral spirits too . I'm glad you guys corrected what to use.