Removing torn decal from tape

[papajohn97]

Forgive me if I’m repeating a tip that’s been previously posted. I had a decal disaster today! In the process of masking off the edges of a painted/ decaled car hood to airbrush the underside black, I managed to damage a racing stripe decal that was mounted and clear coated on the top of the hood. A 3/4” long length of one side of the black stripe peeled off and stuck to a piece of green Frog tape that accidentally came in contact with the hood. So much for clear coating protecting mounted decals from masking damage…..

I discovered an effective way to extract the torn decal piece from the tape without damaging it. I sprayed a small amount of WD-40 into a plastic paint cup and then submerged the tape piece with the decal piece stuck to it into the cup for a minute or two. The torn decal piece easily slipped off the tape without any damage! I rinsed the WD-40 off of the decal piece by dipping it into another cup of IPA (isopropyl alcohol), carefully dried it with a paper towel and was then able to remount it back onto the hood using a drop of white glue diluted in SoluSet applied between the decal and hood. Disaster solved!
 

It’s always best to avoid getting tape anywhere near a mounted decal but it’s nice now to know there’s a way to salvage it if a disaster occurs. Cheers, John

[Bills72sj]

Nice save. I would have bailed and made new decals. Do you have any pics?

[Bainford]

Well done, John. I never would have thought of that solution.

However, I am more interested in the decal damaging experience in the first place. I am currently working on a model that is painted, decaled (a difficult job), cleared, and now being cut & polished. Once I'm done that, I have some masking to do to paint window trims and am quite nervous of damaging the decals. I will try to avoid taping over the decals as best I can, but it may not be possible. I've been hoping the clear will save me from damage, but your post may serve as a warning.

Just out of curiosity, what clear did you use.

[papajohn97]

Thanks Bill (Bills72sj). Unfortunately I didn’t shoot any pics of my disaster repair process but hope to post the finished build soon (Grump’s ‘65 Plymouth S/SA Black Arrow) and will try to include a close-up photo of the damaged area.

Hi Trevor (Bainford), I used Mr. Color GX100 Super Clear III bottle lacquer thinned 1:1 with Mr. Color Thinner and airbrush sprayed. I’ve always loved Tamiya TS-13 rattle can lacquer clear coat on car bodies but have found it to be way too hot over decals, even when sprayed in many thin coats (last “wet” coat always eats the decals). I believe the Mr. Color clear coat omits a strong solvent that’s in the Tamiya TS-13 (toulene?) that eats decals. I sprayed three heavily decaled car bodies this week using the Mr. Color CC and only had a few areas where the CC reacted with the decal causing slight “bubbling”. I think this happened where there was a tiny bit of residual air between the decal and surface after setting. I would use 2K but I’m a cancer survivor and need to limit my carcinogens exposure to Irish Whiskey ??!

[Bainford]

4 hours ago, papajohn97 said:

Hi Trevor (Bainford), I used Mr. Color GX100 Super Clear III bottle lacquer thinned 1:1 with Mr. Color Thinner and airbrush sprayed. I’ve always loved Tamiya TS-13 rattle can lacquer clear coat on car bodies but have found it to be way too hot over decals, even when sprayed in many thin coats (last “wet” coat always eats the decals). I believe the Mr. Color clear coat omits a strong solvent that’s in the Tamiya TS-13 (toulene?) that eats decals. I sprayed three heavily decaled car bodies this week using the Mr. Color CC and only had a few areas where the CC reacted with the decal causing slight “bubbling”. I think this happened where there was a tiny bit of residual air between the decal and surface after setting. I would use 2K but I’m a cancer survivor and need to limit my carcinogens exposure to Irish Whiskey ??!

Cheers John, good info. This particular body is sprayed with Tamiya LP-9 lacquer clear from the bottle. First time using it. It seems robust during cutting, and the decals are completely unaffected by it.

Well done surviving cancer, and I share your views on 2K paint. A nasty and unnecessary risk. I am not a whiskey drinker, but I have no doubt it's an inspired choice as well.