Second Hudson Hornet

[Anglia105E]

Preparation is under way to commence building my second 1:25 scale 1953 Moebius Hudson Hornet . . . This is such an enjoyable kit to build, and both the quality as well the fit of the parts is outstanding. Whereas my first Hudson was finished in a two-tone paint scheme, this one will be single colour, using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer Light Grey, Tamiya TS-14 Black, and Tamiya TS-13 Clear.

At the moment, I just have one question, which I am sure has been covered previously . . . The ' TWIN H POWER ' script on the trunk lid is barely visible, and although I did not apply chrome to the first build, this time I have applied BMF to the script, before the primer stage of the painting. Please remind me, how do you reveal the chrome script, after primer, black and clear have been applied later?

Thanks . . .

David

[Slotto]

Lightly rub it with a moistened q-tip loaded with the appropriate thinner.

I use craft paints so I use alcohol

[Anglia105E]

25 minutes ago, Slotto said:

Lightly rub it with a moistened q-tip loaded with the appropriate thinner.

I use craft paints so I use alcohol

Thank you Steve . . . I probably need to use either Humbrol Enamel Thinners, or maybe Isopropyl Alcohol . . .

David

[StevenGuthmiller]

Trim as close as you can to the script before painting to try to eliminate any foil edge being visible through the paint.

 

There are varying methods to this process, but I usually wait until right before the final coat or 2 of color before applying the foil.

This helps to ensure that you don't have a ton of paint to remove after painting over it.

The less paint over the foil, the easier it is to remove.

I apply clear after the scripts have been foiled and cleaned.

Much depends on your painting process.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

Edited August 1, 2023 by StevenGuthmiller

[ea0863]

Very lovely!

[Anglia105E]

4 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Trim as close as you can to the script before painting to try to eliminate any foil edge being visible through the paint.

 

There are varying methods to this process, but I usually wait until right before the final coat or 2 of color before applying the foil.

This helps to ensure that you don't have a ton of paint to remove after painting over it.

The less paint over the foil, the easier it is to remove.

I apply clear after the scripts have been foiled and cleaned.

Much depends on your painting process.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

You have made a good point there, Steven Guthmiller . . . I was thinking it made sense to apply the clear over the revealed script, once the script has been cleaned up. Having not used clear before on my painted model cars, I was overlooking this step, so thank you for pointing that out !

I particularly like your script work on the yellow car, the black one and the pink ( is that a Pontiac GTO ? ).

David

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

4 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

I particularly like your script work on the yellow car, the black one and the pink ( is that a Pontiac GTO ? ).

It's a '64 Pontiac Grand Prix.

The color is called "Sunfire Red".

 

The yellow car is a 1960 Chrysler Imperial.

 

The black one is a 1960 Mercury Parklane convertible.

 

 

The red, a 1962 Chrysler 300 convertible.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Edited August 1, 2023 by StevenGuthmiller

[Anglia105E]

Four excellent builds of yours Mr Guthmiller, and some expert chrome work too !

Thanks again . . .

David

[Anglia105E]

While paint is drying and curing on the body parts of the Hudson, the engine is being assembled and painted. Apart from the fitting of the oil and air filters, as well as the decals for the Twin H Power air filter canisters, and some ignition wiring the engine is almost ready to put to one side.

So far, I am enjoying building this second Hudson Hornet as much as I did the first one . . . The Moebius instruction sheet is a joy to follow !

David

[XYHARRY]

G'day David, as you are using Tamiya TS range rattle cans for your paint you will need to use lacquer thinner for your bmf trim/script work. Good work so far and am looking forward to what's next. 

Cheers, 

David. ??

[Slotto]

The engine looks sharp David. Go, go, go

[Zippi]

That engine looks pretty sharp David.  How did your script turn out?

[StevenGuthmiller]

6 hours ago, XYHARRY said:

G'day David, as you are using Tamiya TS range rattle cans for your paint you will need to use lacquer thinner for your bmf trim/script work. Good work so far and am looking forward to what's next. 

Cheers, 

David. ??

Cheap hardware store lacquer thinner will do the trick.

This is the only lacquer thinner I ever use.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Anglia105E]

Well guys, there has been some progress with this Hudson, and I have to confess to something that goes against all of the advice offered recently.

I considered using a cotton bud dampened with Isopropyl Alcohol to reveal the trunk script . . . and then I lost my nerve !

I then considered using the rounded tip of a cocktail stick / toothpick, again dipped in Isopropyl Alcohol, but again I could not do it . . .

What I decided to do, and you may throw your hands up in horror . . . I carefully used the point of a long needle to scrape away the paint from the BMF underneath. This seemed to work quite well, although I was holding my breath through each letter of the script. The BMF does not appear to be damaged.

Moving on to wire up the engine ignition, I have not been able to find my grey plug lead wire, despite an exhaustive search of the loft space. I am certain that I have some, but it remains hidden. I thought about ordering a new pack, which is very cheap, but the shipping cost is six times the cost of the item. Then I found some 0.3 mm brass wire, which compares nicely with the 0.4 mm plastic wire that I used for my previous Hudson engine.

The brass wire will have to be painted grey or black, and I have drilled holes where the spark plug tips were. I cannot drill the distributor cap, even using the smallest of three Revell hand drill bits.

Both air cleaner canisters are coated with Humbrol 19 Gloss Enamel Red, but after 3 days the paint remains too tacky to handle the parts. Might have to spray some gloss enamel varnish over the Humbrol red enamel . . . Outside temp has been 20°C and the window is often open. Why not drying?

Oh, one last thing . . . I cut off the pin that locates the oil filter onto the engine block, with careless use of my sprue cutters. Drilled a hole in the oil filter bowl and cut off a short piece of a drawing pin, which was super glued in place. The metal pin fits tightly into the hole on the block.

David

[Slotto]

You are brave to pick at the paint over the BMF. Glad it worked out for you. Great job on the engine!

[StevenGuthmiller]

5 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

What I decided to do, and you may throw your hands up in horror . . . I carefully used the point of a long needle to scrape away the paint from the BMF underneath. This seemed to work quite well, although I was holding my breath through each letter of the script. The BMF does not appear to be damaged.

I think that I would stay away from a needle, (just my personal opinion) but I often do the fine work with a round tooth pick sharpened to a sharp chisel tip, dipped in lacquer thinner.

Not enough thinner to drip.

Just enough to dampen it, and then dab it on a paper towel to make sure it's not too wet.

 

The soft wood is a lot more forgiving than a metal tipped tool.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Anglia105E]

9 hours ago, Slotto said:

You are brave to pick at the paint over the BMF. Glad it worked out for you. Great job on the engine!

Thanks Steve Martin . . . I do realise that a sharp pointed needle is not the ideal tool for this job, amd I have probably been lucky to get away with it !

David

[Anglia105E]

6 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I think that I would stay away from a needle, (just my personal opinion) but I often do the fine work with a round tooth pick sharpened to a sharp chisel tip, dipped in lacquer thinner.

Not enough thinner to drip.

Just enough to dampen it, and then dab it on a paper towel to make sure it's not too wet.

 

The soft wood is a lot more forgiving than a metal tipped tool.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

Thank you Steven Guthmiller . . . I fully expected the sharp pointed needle to remove the BMF from the surface of the delicate script, but by some miracle the BMF was unharmed . . . My main concern was that a cotton bud, or indeed the sharpened tip of a toothpick, would cause thinners to drip onto the trunk bodywork in  between the actual script. I am notoriously clumsy when it comes to this aspect of model building, and even with great care I was expecting to make a mess of things.

Certainly, I would agree that the soft wood is more forgiving than a metal tipped tool. Somehow, I have removed two coats of black paint and two coats of primer to reveal the BMF script.

Do you have any thoughts on the Humbrol red enamel paint not drying after 3 days ?  Much of my painting is with Humbrol products applied by brush.

Thanks,

David

[Zippi]

I like this Hudson build.  Looking pretty sharp David.  I see this kit at the hobby shop all the time just haven't picked one up.

[slusher]

Love Hudson cars, really nice work so far!

[StevenGuthmiller]

3 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

Do you have any thoughts on the Humbrol red enamel paint not drying after 3 days ? 

Nope.

I haven't used Humbrol since I was a kid.

 

 

 

Steve

[Anglia105E]

38 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Nope.

I haven't used Humbrol since I was a kid.

 

 

 

Steve

Okay thanks . . . Fair enough

David

[Anglia105E]

2 hours ago, slusher said:

Love Hudson cars, really nice work so far!

Thanks Carl . . . I regard Hudson motor cars as the Rolls-Royce of American motor cars.

David

[espo]

Nice save on the oil filter. Usually, a good idea to use some sort of a pin mounting on any of these small parts when possible. This will give you a more secure mounting than the kits mounting points. The air cleaners might be best to wait for the paint to dry before spraying another coat of paint, could all turn to goo.  You may have to wind up stripping the air cleaners and start over with a different type of paint. Another method to try the next time you're removing paint from bare metal foil. Tamiya, and others brands as well, offer pointed cotton swabs that are on the stiff side that will hold their shape when wetted with a paint remover. 

[Anglia105E]

7 hours ago, Zippi said:

I like this Hudson build.  Looking pretty sharp David.  I see this kit at the hobby shop all the time just haven't picked one up.

I would say go for the kit at the hobby shop Bob, and you won't be disappointed. It is so enjoyable to build.

David