Bathtub Buggy Build

[Farmboy]

Dave, to each their own, but I see it this way.  I'm a biker.  My wife and I have enjoyed Honda GoldWings for over 22 years and racked up beaucoup kms/miles and good times on them.  But we've also seen HDs at Americade in Lake George NY that are trailered there and parked to avoid putting mileage on them as that may affect their value (?).   Are they wrong?  No.  But I do think they're missing out.  

[bobthehobbyguy]

On 11/4/2023 at 12:40 PM, redscampi said:

I seem to be all over the place, but not just in this hobby. Seems to be the story of my life. My wife has "diagnosed" me with ADD.

On some of these kits though - it's very hard to start a build because, well, you know, they're only new once. When I get a kit like this my instinct is to go look for a builder rather than break into a new kit. Kinda dumb, I know.

I have delusions that my kids will someday be able to sell off my horde of stuff for profit, and a new kit is worth more than a built up any day...except on eBay apparently...

I think that using a builder makes sense if you plan on making upgrades to the kit. To me start with a new kit if you plan to build it basically box stock.

 

[Farmboy]

On 11/4/2023 at 4:40 PM, redscampi said:

On some of these kits though - it's very hard to start a build because, well, you know, they're only new once. When I get a kit like this my instinct is to go look for a builder rather than break into a new kit....

I have delusions that my kids will someday be able to sell off my horde of stuff for profit, and a new kit is worth more than a built up any day...

I have friends with an enviable stash of kits they'll never build...a collector hobby in itself.   Again, to each his own.  

Edited November 8, 2023 by Farmboy

[Bugatti Fan]

Show rods are always intriguing by their concepts in design. This one looks really interesting to follow.

It is a car so could have been placed in the normal auto WIP column.

[Farmboy]

Hey Noel, you're probably right about where I should have posted and if the powers that be choose to move this wip to the model cars forum I have no problem with that.  Thanks for the interest and observations.

[Farmboy]

Been away a little longer than planned as Rosie, my 15 year old Dachshund died last week.  Wasn't up to much.  Boy, rough year.  But on with the show....

I've started with the radiator shroud and sink assembly.  Firstly the sink.

It turned out better than I thought it would.  After a bit of sanding to remove some residual ancient tube glue and prepping, it's the glistening, sterile white I hoped for.  That's Tamya white primer and a coat of Krylon (the 'clean with mineral spirits' type NOT the 'clean with lacquer thinner' newer version) Clear.

I did experiment with a very thin strip of black adhesive vinyl around the middle of the sink deck.  Looked very 40's,  but it just stood out too much and didn't relate to anything else.  White it is.

And here it is sitting and setting up on 5 minute epoxy (ha!).  I've obviously added the taps and faucet.  Note also a brassy drain surround, and, it'll show up better in another photo, but there's a drain plug sitting beside it.  It's an antique white acrylic so hopefully it'll show up better in any future pics.  Still to come after the epoxy dries are two brass water lines from the taps down between the axle and steering gear, disappearing under the car.

Note the shroud is placed behind it for placement assistance.  That's a nice leather color that started out as rattle can gold.  A coat of matte clear and you get that.  Neat.  The shroud has also been fitted for a mesh front and a radiator.  

Comments and observations welcome.

[MeatMan]

On 11/17/2023 at 1:59 PM, Farmboy said:

Been away a little longer than planned as Rosie, my 15 year old Dachshund died last week.  Wasn't up to much.  Boy, rough year.  But on with the show....

I've started with the radiator shroud and sink assembly.  Firstly the sink.

It turned out better than I thought it would.  After a bit of sanding to remove some residual ancient tube glue and prepping, it's the glistening, sterile white I hoped for.  That's Tamya white primer and a coat of Krylon (the 'clean with mineral spirits' type NOT the 'clean with lacquer thinner' newer version) Clear.

I did experiment with a very thin strip of black adhesive vinyl around the middle of the sink deck.  Looked very 40's,  but it just stood out too much and didn't relate to anything else.  White it is.

And here it is sitting and setting up on 5 minute epoxy (ha!).  I've obviously added the taps and faucet.  Note also a brassy drain surround, and, it'll show up better in another photo, but there's a drain plug sitting beside it.  It's an antique white acrylic so hopefully it'll show up better in any future pics.  Still to come after the epoxy dries are two brass water lines from the taps down between the axle and steering gear, disappearing under the car.

Note the shroud is placed behind it for placement assistance.  That's a nice leather color that started out as rattle can gold.  A coat of matte clear and you get that.  Neat.  The shroud has also been fitted for a mesh front and a radiator.  

Comments and observations welcome.

Sorry to hear about your loss Mike.
Nice work on the sink!

[redscampi]

On 11/17/2023 at 12:59 PM, Farmboy said:

Been away a little longer than planned as Rosie, my 15 year old Dachshund died last week.  Wasn't up to much.  Boy, rough year.  But on with the show....

I've started with the radiator shroud and sink assembly.  Firstly the sink.

Losing a dog can be tough. I feel for you.

Good to see you driving forward on the buggy. The sink looks brand new old stock!

[Farmboy]

Thanks for the kind words guys.  Time marches on..

[Farmboy]

Here's the finished front section of the car.  

The radiator shroud is now cemented in place.  I used epoxy on this piece and it'll be tomorrow before it fully cures.  The radiator came from the parts box.  The screen for the front of the shroud (visible in the next picture) is  from my favorite source, a grease splatter screen.  I've got a couple of them as the screening in one is square, the other one rectangular.

And here are the water lines.  I added these by cementing a slightly larger diameter piece of metal tubing directly over the holes for the taps on the underside so they would line up properly with the taps.  Then the actual brass tubing pieces were bent in to an L shape, the short piece super glued to the underside of the chassis after trial fitting the long section and trimming it to the correct length.

Moving front to back, I guess the engine is next.  I'm keeping the HiPo 289 from the kit.  I'll try to clean it up a bit adding a starter, coil, fuel pump, better pulleys, correct alternator mount and fuel injection. That's the plan right now at any rate.

Comments and observations welcome.

[Farmboy]

....but before the engine, there are two lights that need attending to.  The real machine has Kleig lights mounted on monopods.  They were obviously simplified for the kit as part of the mount was attached to the suspension spring.  Of all the photos I could find, none of them showed the complete light stand and it's attachment points, but I did manage to find a couple of partial shots that gave enough visual info to allow for some believable imagineering.  Presenting my always-there friend, the 3/8" staple gun staple.   Incidentally, I also tried small diameter solder for the next step, but the staple looked more at home.

Taking a look at the real kleig light on the actual showrod you'll see a cradle affair between the light case and the stand.  None on the kit part.  Trying a staple as the cradle piece, it was the right size....sort of.  A quick snip of both legs to get them the right length to end up on the sides of the light, and a very light squeeze...we have a cradle!  Though the stand should have been separated  and rebuilt with the cradle mounted between the light/stand, It was cemented to the flat portion on the bottom of the light.  Hard to notice and I'm not telling anybody.   And we're good to go.

There will be tiny slices of small small diameter styrene rod applied to appear as the pivots....but there's more.

It seems from what I could gather photo-wise that the light itself would be just too heavy to be self supporting.  Then |I notice a horizontal support bolted to the side of the radiator shroud headed in the light's direction.  I have yet to see where it ends up in reality, but on this build, it helps steady the Kleig.  It will start at the side of the radiator shroud, squeak thru the gap between the sink and the light, and act as the support.  In some small way, it probably does help on the model too.

The light lenses are drying under their coat of Future or whatever name it is today.  I'm using a couple of hi intensity spot lenses with a chrome center dot found in the parts box.  I believe they came from a Pontiac Catalina kit but I won't swear to it.

Hopefully I'll have photos of the completed light installation next post.

Comments and observations welcome.

[slusher]

I started reading your showrod work in process and I have read it completely thru. I now am interested in following!

[Farmboy]

Hey Carl.  Going forward, I'm hoping the build and posts will continue at a more consistent pace.  Happy to have you stopping in.

[Farmboy]

 A few pictures of the almost finished light installation.  Some details to add yet like small styrene 'pucks' to simulate pivot and attachment points between the Kleig light proper, the cradle, and radiator shroud mounts.  Most disappointing are the light's lenses.  They were milky just a few minutes ago before the shots were taken so I'm holding out that there may yet be improvement as the liquid acrylic (Future) dries.  If there's no improvement, I have a couple of other lenses to replace them with as they'll just pop off using an Xacto.  The more I look at it them though, the less impressed I am with them, and the more I'm thinking regular headlight lenses will do the job.  I read somewhere someone had used a paper punch on clear plastic packaging and fit perfectly.  Could be an idea...any thoughts?  

Comments and observations welcome.

Edited November 22, 2023 by Farmboy

[slusher]

I have a normal paper ponch and have pounced thin cardboard for masks for my headlight buckets of I’m painting with spray paint a grill black and cleaning overspray with mineral spirits. That is a good idea for headlights pounch out some clear plastic ..

[Farmboy]

Good tip on the headlight buckets Carl!   Think I'll replace the lens with another of the same type.  If I'm still not satisfied, out comes the paper punch lol. Might experiment with a chrome insert behind it too.  Thanx for the tips.

[Farmboy]

 

...I got to thinking about the headlight lenses for the 'buggy.  I dwelled on the paperpunch/clear plastic idea but went in a slightly different direction.
 

In the photo below is what I've developed (sorry).  They fit nice and close to the actual Kleig light and I think will fill the bill.  I punched out a few chrome dots from some adhesive vinyl I have on hand.  Then, I punched out a few screen dots from one of the splatter screens hanging in my shop, thinking of a look kinda reminiscent of some old 'vettes with the screen over the headlights.  So, below is the sequence from left to right.  Your eye just doesn't pick up the waffle weave detail anywhere near this.  Course, one could use flat nylon screening but I want some surface texture. 

1st      A raw punch out of screening
2nd    The piece would be painted gold, here quickly done for the photo with a paint pen.  Also, the dot of the chrome vinyl it will sit on.
3rd     The last piece on the right is how it gets put on the front of the Kleig.  It's held together with a base coat of Future.

This whole shot is at quite a magnification value on my old Canon.  Your eye just doesn't pick up the waffle weave anywhere near this intensity.  Course, one could use flat nylon screening but I want some surface texture
Back in a day or two with the finished product.
 

Comments and observations welcome

 

[redscampi]

This build is getting better and better! I love your creativity in overcoming obstacles and adding detail!

[Farmboy]

Thanks for the shout out Gary, glad you're enjoying the build.

[Farmboy]

..and here's what it ended up looking like. Not too bad.  I think the work's ok, but the effect makes one think it might be a one piece gold unit depending on the angle of view.  Hmmm.  Might change it, might not, but probably not.  The gold screening looks chrome in the photo but not in reality

 

Anyway, on to the engine.

Comments and observations welcome.

[Farmboy]

Managed to squeak in some engine time.  Made the decision to go with a blower assembly to replace the mystery manifold box supplied with the kit.  Though not in the photos below, the blower intake is thru a scratchbuilt double port inlet with a parts box scoop intake.  I've also deviated from the norm adding a magneto for spark plus an alternator and battery for the starter and rest of the electrics.  That covers exhibition runs and lighting.  I think the battery would be in the kit supplied round brass plated towel hamper.

Still the odd area to work on.  Le crack in the oil pan is a doozy.  No worries.

The hole in the block front is for the magneto stem that will come out at an angle.

Here's the magneto under construction.  The tops on these are normally a tan shade.  This one is red.  The bottom will be chrome or silver.

more to come. 

Comments and observations welcome

Edited December 13, 2023 by Farmboy

[Farmboy]

This photo was taken seconds after the last plug wire was installed.  Some gentle curving and placement needed yet.  That will come after the fuel line is installed on the left of the engine up to a distributor valve with two lines going to the sides of the intakes.  Too much handling yet to say it's the finished plug wire presentation  The mag was built from a section of sprue, the cap rim made from a section of wire wrapped and cut to fit.  The effect is pretty good in person.

Alternator is installed in the general vicinity of where they appear to be on 1:1 engines I've seen photos of.  Note the holes in the sides of the intake for the fuel lines.  3 of the 8 plug wires are visible on the magneto.

Quick mockup of how the headers will look, only they'll be straight on the final build lol.  The toothbrush is my Super Clean scrubber holding the engine up for the shot.  Planning on painting the oil pan chrome or black.  We'll see.

Comments and observations welcome.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Lunajammer]

I always thought that theme-wise, this rod sort of "jumped the shark." It's so absurd as to not even connect with me as a car. I get that these show rods were novelties but putting a bathroom or a kitchen for that matter on a platform with an engine and calling it a car just escapes me.

Of course, it's that very novelty that's appealing to you to build it. I think you're doing a bang up job. Amazing how your details bring it to life, and giving it the full Liberace makes it even more fun.

[Farmboy]

Hey Mike.  There are plenty of good oob builds of this kit out there to satisfy the model historians.  No radiator, no headlight lenses, no gear shift, a  kid's' kit from the late 60's fer shur.  This is my impression (as far as my skills allow me to get it) of a grown up, modified version....perhaps an escapee from the Amber room?   Where's my candelabra?

Many thanks for the comments and observations....and the kudos!

[Farmboy]

A few photos.

Finally have the engine installed.  Hard to see close up let alone in a photo are the upper and lower rad hoses.  Also, note the fuel delivery line up to a kitbashed distributor block at the front of the intake.  Fuel is sent via 2 lines, one per intake.  On the rear of the intake is a throttle lever that will be attached via linkage to the gas pedal.  Looking real close you can see the rod running horizontally between intakes to make it one cohesive unit.  The scoop is drying.

Still working on the transmission tunnel.  The kit has no transmission linkage I can see on the real thing except for one blurry piece on the left front corner of the countertop.  I'm assuming it's the shift lever and it's automatic as there's no clutch pedal.  A short linkage assembly imagineered  to fit to a small locator box on the tunnel directly under the counter top should do the job.

The tunnel is not connected.  I'm in the process of modding the boudoir assembly and one relies on the other.  I'll be back when I have more.

 

Comments and observations welcome