Rust-Oleum Enamel

[Milo]

If I apply some rustoleum primer in a nice coat, how long do I have to wait before painting a color coat on top? (I have no dehydrator or vent)

Same for the actual color, how long do I have to wait for the enamel to cure? I see all over the web saying 48 hours, but that doesn't seem right.

[gman]

Enamels have a "re-coat" window- you spray, they (somewhat) cure to the point additional coats can be applied without adverse reactions. Don't confuse enamel curing time with actual drying time. Some enamels may take months and months to fully dry to the point they stand up to handling. 

Is the primer an enamel? If so, I'd seek out a lacquer primer instead which can be over coated with enamel if you strongly feel you want to use enamels. A lacquer primer will truly dry and do so quickly, and will be able to stand up to the solvents in enamel paints and provide a good foundation.

[slusher]

Krylon enamel dry much faster than Rustoleum. The short cuts at hobby lobby are really great!

[Dave G.]

Rustoleum primer is enamel based. Finding that out after one quick shot from the can I bought, I returned it, as I had asked before purchase for lacquer primer.

As far as the paint, I used both 2x and the standard white can Rustoleum on lawn furniture this summer. The 2x dries much faster than the old formula stuff. Even out in the sunny back yard.

If you have no booth with extractor it would be kind of nutty to try and spray enamel inside your dwelling place. My opinion.

[bobthehobbyguy]

 

 

 

[bobthehobbyguy]

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/181168-rust-oleum-paint/

 

[Shark]

I wouldn't use Rust-Oleum primer if you gave it to me for free, to many bad experiences, took forever to dry if it ever did. I usually get Plastikote 

[mikemodeler]

Rust-Oleum tends to go on thick and therefore is not ideal for model building. There are many alternatives that will yield a quality paint job without the long drying times of enamel, lots of posts on this forum to read through. What works for one person might not work for the other.

[Dave G.]

The only way I use Rustoleum on models is decanted 2X products and not their primer. Once decanted I add some lacquer thinner and airbrush it over a primer sealer. Stynylrez is a poly acrylic primer sealer, the airbrushed Rustleum does not penetrate it and get to the plastic. The finish to me is second to non, sometimes by my eyes it doesn't need polishing. And since I cure it in a dehydrator then dry times are fully acceptable ( hours vs days).

But honestly these days I use more acrylics. I agree that Rustoleum is too thick if sprayed out of the can. Lets face it, it's made for lawn furniture not models.

[Rocking Rodney Rat]

Don't use Rust-o-leum paints, unless you're worrying about your model rusting. Many prefer Tamiya primer but it's expensive. I use Duplicolor (at your local auto parts store) primer. Look for DAP-1699 near the bar code. It sands real nice. The darker DAP-1700 doesn't sand as well, it will gum up your sandpaper. My $.02 and worth both pennies.... -RRR

[Zippi]

I use Rust-Oleum paints for chassis, interiors, and small parts but not on the body.