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Posted

What is the best way to glue vehicle windows in place without concern for a film left over?  Thanks in advance for your response(s)

Posted

I've used two-part epoxy successfully by first coating the surface that the glass sits on and in modest amounts.  Let it sit until it gets tacky and then press the glass in place.  I've also used Gorilla clear in some cases.  It takes a while to set up but it does not affect the glass and dries perfectly clear.  In any case, whatever glue you end up with use it sparingly and only in sufficient quantity to hold the glass in position.  

  • Like 1
Posted

It depend how big they are, on a model in 1/25 I use Mikro mark Same Stuff plastic welder. On model in 1/5 scale two part epoxy, using a tooth pick.

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Posted (edited)

this is what i use. or you can also use Elmer's glue all.(used it for years)...if you get any on the clear part, a wet brush in warm water will take it right off..tes281217.jpg.c3557e6a3df43e0e9274baeccfe5d041.jpg

Edited by yh70
  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, yh70 said:

this is what i use. or you can also use Elmer's glue all.(used it for years)...if you get any on the clear part, a wet brush in warm water will take it right off..tes281217.jpg.c3557e6a3df43e0e9274baeccfe5d041.jpg

This is my go to as well. I also use it to fill in the gaps between chrome bumpers and the body. It draws in the color form both parts and visually narrows the unsightly gaps.

  • Like 1
Posted

CA glue will fog clear and chrome, so that is out. Now all I use is 2-part 5-minute epoxy, wait until it thickens up so it won't run where you don't want it.

Lately I have made up mounting tabs so the glass will "nest" in place and won't move around. I will use little strips of tape to hold the glass. Apply a few dabs of epoxy and remove the tape later on.

Posted

Epoxy is good for large or poorly-fitting parts.

Any of the white PVA glues work extremely well for light lenses, or smaller pinned parts like door handles and wipers, or very delicate PE scripts, etc.

  • Like 1
Posted
19 minutes ago, oldnslow said:

I use clear fingernail polish , dries clear and gives you a moment to adjust the part .

Tamiya X22 clear is good for general headlight installation and dries... clear. I have to try the clear nail polish. I know some of them dry quickly.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet. I use jewelers glue. Specifically, GS-Hypo cement. I get mine at Jo Ann Fabrics. Dries crystal clear and has a very strong bond, so make sure you have it exactly where you want it as it cures. 

IMG_8997.png

  • Like 1
Posted

I use Micoscale Krystal Clear.  I've been using it for window glass and lenses for about 10 years with great success.  i would be interested in hearing any negative comments about the stuff.   So far i have not found any downside. 

Also  how does it compare to Evergreen Canopy Glue?   Ive never tried the evergreen, but interested in comments 

Posted

GS Hypo Cement is VERY good!  What I like about it is the pinpoint applicator on the tube and the cap has a needle to keep the tube from clogging up.  Strong stuff too.  Once dry, parts won't pop off if you flex the plastic to it's limit.  Does not fog up either and can be painted over or use a marker like a Sharpie Industrial Black marker.

I have also used Elmer's white and clear glue, Modge-Podge, evergreen and so forth.  I swear that Evergreen is just Elmer's White glue but that is just my opinion.  Essentially, I've found any Non-solvent or Non CA glues that dry clear work well for clear plastic.

Posted
On 1/2/2024 at 12:45 PM, BDSchindler said:

GS Hypo Cement is VERY good!

Thanks for the tip on this, I just ordered a tube in FleaBay. I have been using E6000 for glass and when parts need to be 'nudged' into place. What I don't like about E6000 is that it's very stringy and if I'm not careful it will drape a gooey thread across the parts... -RRR

Posted (edited)
On 1/2/2024 at 12:45 PM, BDSchindler said:

GS Hypo Cement is VERY good!

Thanks for the tip on this, I just ordered a tube in FleaBay. I have been using E6000 for glass and when parts need to be 'nudged' into place. What I don't like about E6000 is that it's very stringy and if I'm not careful it will drape a gooey thread across the parts... -RRR

Edited by Rocking Rodney Rat
so nice it came up twice!!! c(???)
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I recently got this from Amazon. I think it's pretty similar to the GS Hypo Cement. What I don't like about the GS Hypo Cement is the metal tube. Give it a little squeeze and it just keeps on squeezing out of the tube. This tube is plastic and doesn't keep pushing the glue out. It also has a little pin applicator in the cap just like the GS Hypo Cement. It's also a lot bigger tube. It says "Super Glue" but it's not a cyanoacrylate which is usually called a Super Glue. And for $10 you get 4.76 oz.

image.png.c86863376b3254b85e9336762f00f557.png

Edited by Mike C
Posted

Hmmm… both product intriques me to buy. Those would be great for gluing aircraft canopies. Although,  I am curious on one member using clear nail polish. That’s a first I’ve ever heard of using clear nail polish.

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