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Bare Metal Foil


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I have trouble just thinking about using it. Once I get past that block, it comes out pretty well. I can do door handles. wipers and interior parts with decent results.

For longer pieces like windshield trim, I'll cut a fresh edge on the sheet, so I don't have to cut it on the car. I have surgical blades I use expressly on foil. Real blades, I got a bunch from work.

Edited by bobss396
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There is a section here on the Forum called Tips, Tricks, Tutorials. Several builders have posted how they go about using Bare Metal Foil. After reading what they have posted try experimenting with different techniques applying the foil on a spare body. See what works for you when you're foiling. With some practice you will soon find what works best for you. The main thing is you will see what others have done and how they have overcome similar problems.   

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6 hours ago, bobss396 said:

I have surgical blades I use expressly on foil.

This is the way. I used surgical blades for BMF on my last build (which required quite a bit of it) and it was an absolute game changer compared to Xacto knives. I found that I had much better control. Plus I got them for cheap off of amazon.

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18 minutes ago, av405 said:

This is the way. I used surgical blades for BMF on my last build (which required quite a bit of it) and it was an absolute game changer compared to Xacto knives. I found that I had much better control. Plus I got them for cheap off of amazon.

Do you push, or pull the blade? I've heard you can do either with the surgical style blades..... I want to get some to try on my next foiling job.

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Foiling is just about my favourite task other than the initial gluing together of engine parts and other components that can be painted as a unit. Some trim items can be a bit tricky or even impossible to get a perfect job on.? One thing I’ve learned is not to be cheap with the foil. I’ve wasted more by trying to cut it close to exact size only to wind up peeling it off and starting over. YMMV.

A sharp blade is necessary to get a nicely finished trim. I liked the Exacto Z-series blades, but can no longer get them locally unfortunately.?

Edited by NOBLNG
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I know that it seems that some have issues with cutting it, but honestly, I’ve always used a standard #11 blade with no problems.

I rarely have any issues with getting one blade to last for an entire project, and as long as you’re using the original, or “New Improved” foil, and not the “Ultra Bright”, you shouldn’t have a problem.

I’m convinced that most issues with BMF, including cutting issues, are user error, and not a problem with any product.

 

 

 

 

Steve

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2 hours ago, JollySipper said:

Do you push, or pull the blade? I've heard you can do either with the surgical style blades..... I want to get some to try on my next foiling job.

I always pull, and there worth the money.  You can get a 100 pack for like a $1 or $2 more than a 100 pack of regular blades.  I prefer using them with regular xacto blade handle instead of the handle you get with a set.  I just snap part of the bottom off with cutters, and place inside handle.  Much much more comfortable than the skinny surgical blade handle. 

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7 hours ago, av405 said:

This is the way. I used surgical blades for BMF on my last build (which required quite a bit of it) and it was an absolute game changer compared to Xacto knives. I found that I had much better control. Plus I got them for cheap off of amazon.

Got a part number from Amazon?

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8 hours ago, JollySipper said:

Do you push, or pull the blade? I've heard you can do either with the surgical style blades..... I want to get some to try on my next foiling job.

I pull the blade. I know someone else mentioned that they put the surgical blade on the xacto knife handle, but I actually like the surgical handle more for this particular task. Like anything else, try every option out and do what's best for you. 

 

2 hours ago, Miatatom said:

Got a part number from Amazon?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Z39CL8B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089XW2JQ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Here's my last build just as reference. All of the window trim and bottom rocker panel is BMF. I'll never claim to be the best at this, but I figured I should back up my claims with something. 

image.thumb.jpeg.559990f0710adb15ef5f3cb623874c7c.jpeg

 

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I got my latest batch of surgical blades at a show, $15 for 100. They are not as good as real surgical blades, but better than a #11 blade. 

I have been using the same #11 blade going on a year, although I have plenty around. I simply sharpen it on a Smith's hard stone.

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1 hour ago, Fat Brian said:

Put me in the "love to foil" camp. After so many years of paint problems foiling a kit feels like a victory lap. I just did a 60 Starliner last night, it only took a few hours and looks amazing.

OOF!

You're definitely better at it than I am!

It usually takes me several days to foil a project!

Of course that's only an hour here, two hours there, etc, but it still takes me some time.

 

 

Steve

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A lot of good suggestions by others, and what I was sort of suggesting going in. I would like to add something that I and I'm sure many others do in preparation to adding chrome foil. During the very initial phase of body prep when you're getting panel lines and door openings scribed, include outlining body trim that you will be using chrome foil on in the finishing stages. The reason for this is that the edge of the trim will be easier to find and give the blade a line or grove to follow. 

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34 minutes ago, espo said:

A lot of good suggestions by others, and what I was sort of suggesting going in. I would like to add something that I and I'm sure many others do in preparation to adding chrome foil. During the very initial phase of body prep when you're getting panel lines and door openings scribed, include outlining body trim that you will be using chrome foil on in the finishing stages. The reason for this is that the edge of the trim will be easier to find and give the blade a line or grove to follow. 

On that note…here is my favourite tool for pre-scribing the side trim, and a couple that I made for doing window and door trim. They make it pretty much impossible to go off track and have to do a repair .

 

IMG_9481.jpeg

Edited by NOBLNG
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2 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

OOF!

You're definitely better at it than I am!

It usually takes me several days to foil a project!

Of course that's only an hour here, two hours there, etc, but it still takes me some time.

 

 

Steve

I'm certainly not better at it but this is the second time I've built that particular kit so I knew where the problem areas where and had had some time to think of solutions. I'd day four hours is a bit more realistic of how long it took but still less time than I expected. 

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1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

On that note…here is my favourite tool for pre-scribing the side trim, and a couple that I made for doing window and door trim. They make it pretty much impossible to go off track and have to do a repair .

 

IMG_9481.jpeg

Your post was coming in as I was writing mine. They asked for my approval to add your first and I agreed of course. There is a range of scribing tools out there and I have tried a few. I have picked up some that look like dental tools that work OK for me in some instances. I had been using a tool from Excel that seemed good until I bought the Tamiya Plastic Scriber II. That is now my go-to tool. I enjoy seeing what others are using as it will give me additional ideas, but in the end we all have something that works best for how we do our builds. 

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I'm still working up the nerve to try it the first time.

I know...pathetic.

But I've seen so many semi-buggered jobs that appear to be the norm, I've been procrastinating.

I have a '57 Ford drag car that's going to be multi-colored primer (supposedly pieced together from junkyard parts) and it needs chrome...but since it's mostly primer, I figgered if I bodge it, it won't be all that hard to fix...

Pathetic.   :D

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