Brake Line Junction Blocks?

[CaddyDaddy]

I could really appreciate some idea(s) on what to use for brake line 2-way and 3-way junction blocks. I’m building in 1/25. I use 26 gauge wire (.015) for steel lines. Black braided fishing line (.019) for hoses. I tried the smallest brass colored square beads I could find on-Line for junction blocks. Two problems: 1) they are two big for scale, and 2) cannot drill them to make a 3-way. So, anything you have successfully come up with, I would love to learn about it! I don’t have a lathe so that is one avenue I can’t explore.

[gman]

I would start with some Evergreen styrene square rod in a size that looks right. Break the junction blocks down into their simplest shapes, and bond pieces together with liquid glue (something like Tenax 7R) to get the "T" shapes you want. Gently sand them on a flat surface like a Flexi File when the glue has fully cured, then drill them for your brake lines. You can use your favourite brass metalizer type paint to get the right colour and sheen.

https://evergreenscalemodels.com/collections/14-white-polystrene-strips/products/131-030-x-030 (random size square strip)

https://www.hobbyworks.com/cproduct/17500%2Fstyrene-tack-it-ii-adhesive-(formerly-tenax-7r)-plastic-welder

https://flex-i-file.com/en-ca/products/525-flex-pad-intro-set

https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/alclad-ii-alc-109-polished-brass/?absrc=Google&abid=&abcampid=17854858780&gclid=CjwKCAiA1MCrBhAoEiwAC2d64YnKgeDDkAlnPWuM3oujK4IYiQ26Dy6-1Tc9bDFlG4e9YGH2rnjLEhoC_j8QAvD_BwE&gad_source=1

This will be far easier to work with than real brass, and allow you to make more complex shapes without having to machine small pieces of metal. Tenax (now has a new name) holds well, dries fast, and will allow the styrene to be sanded when fully dry without showing seams.

[Ace-Garageguy]

The real problem is that to be close to scale-correct in 1/25, you'll need 1mm square or even smaller hex styrene rod (3-way fittings are usually T-shaped, 2-way are usually straight-through rectangular or hex-shaped EDIT: though there are others), and can de difficult for some modelers to drill, though it is possible (I drill very small holes all the time with a pin-vise, and I'm an old geezer).

You can save a lot of grief in 1/24-1/25 scales by sticking to simple shapes for T-fittings, eliminating the recess on the closed side, and the protrusion on the threaded part on top of the illustration below. Nobody but an actual mechanic will ever know.

Edited December 6, 2023 by Ace-Garageguy

[Muncie]

This is probably and old trick, and I bet that I've seen it here... credit to those builders that shared it before.

With a piece of.030x.060 or .040x.080 Evergreen Plastic rectangular stock, shape and drill the fitting in the end of the stock leaving the simplest cut to remove the part with a saw or file for last.  That will give a good handle to hold onto. 

Edited December 6, 2023 by Muncie

[NOBLNG]

Just chop one out of some .030” or .040” evergreen sheet. Drilling it will be the fun part, but not too difficult I think. That said, I have never done full brake lines on a model yet…just some short pigtails at the MC. Steve’s idea is a good one if you have the rectangle stock.?

Edit: Just made this one in a few minutes. Drilling from both ends is easier than trying to go from one side all the way through.

Edited December 6, 2023 by NOBLNG

[Fat Brian]

I made this tee in a fuel line out of hexagonal plastic stock. The straight thru part is just drilled completely through and slid over a solid piece of wire. The side connection is glued on and drilled just deep enough to hold the wire.

Edited December 6, 2023 by Fat Brian

[CaddyDaddy]

Gentlemen.......heartfelt thanks for the many great ideas! When I decided to get back into modeling, I placed a good sized “initial stocking” order with Evergreen and Plastruct. Already have all the size/shapes referenced. Pin vice I “borrowed” from my 1:1 garage where I use it to make certain carburetor jets. I already see myself down at the workbench tomorrow night trying out these ideas! While arthritis has wreaked havoc with my shoulders and knees, the hands and fingers are still aces!......not to mention being blessed with great eyesight.

[Ace-Garageguy]

13 hours ago, CaddyDaddy said:

...Pin vice I “borrowed” from my 1:1 garage where I use it to make certain carburetor jets...

My kinda guy.   

[Chariots of Fire]

The suggestions above are all great.  Done my own versions of them from time to time.  One thing I try to remember, though, is that if the detail cannot be seen on the finished model, most of the time it is not worth the effort to try and construct.  That is unless it is simply for one's personal satisfaction of knowing it is there.  In the latter case that is what really counts!?

[dino246gt]

Charles, I agree, even if it won't be seen, I get great satisfaction having done it.

I build for personal enjoyment, not for compliments.

But I am pretty good, aren't I?   LOL

Seriously though those are all good solutions and I have done them.

ONE other thing I've done for round fittings is use thin electrical wire casing, it's already drilled and so easy to cut.. Once glued and  painted, it works works for brake and fuel lines