Anglia105E Posted May 25 Author Share Posted May 25 3 hours ago, David G. said: Welcome back David, I imagine it feels good to be back at the bench. Nicely done with the polishing. I have yet to try Tamiya's polishing compounds. I can't seem to find all three grades at the same time at my LHS when it occurs to me to look for them and I don't want to try them keenly enough to place an order on line. Ah, well. It's good having you back Sir. David G. Good to be back yes, but part of me is still down there in Cornwall . . . The four inner door panels have now been glued in place onto the outer door panels, using Revell Contacta Professional, and the rear number plate ( license plate ) has also been glued in place using PVA glue for the thin card. David W. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 Nice progress. David G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglia105E Posted May 26 Author Share Posted May 26 24 minutes ago, David G. said: Nice progress. David G. Thanks David, and I forgot to mention in my last post . . . Here in UK we have Ebay sellers who offer packs of three Tamiya Polishing Compound . . . All three grades are available in one pack, which is what I usually purchase online because we do not have any high street stores selling Tamiya products. David W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglia105E Posted May 26 Author Share Posted May 26 Sunday was quite a productive day, at a nice steady pace . . . The sub assembly comprising the tools tray, the two hinged boards and the boot lid itself, were brought together by lowering the tools tray into the inner base of the boot lid, and this was glued in place. There is a clear warning from Gunze Sangyo on the instruction sheet ' Do NOT allow any cement to come into conatct with the hinges ' . . . Then, with the outside of the boot lid taped onto the upper body, the inner luggage compartment bay was carefully aligned and glued into place, complete with the two suitcases inside. Leaving this to set overnight, I shall examine the inside of the luggage compartment tomorrow from the outside, with the boot lid open . . . David 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 Well, that's about as tidy a bit of work as it gets! Nicely done and a good outcome! David G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglia105E Posted May 27 Author Share Posted May 27 The luggage compartment fitting appears to have been accomplished successfully, and seems to be correct. The boot lid opens cleanly, the two boards hinge freely, the boards lower onto the boot lid as they are intended, and the suitcases sit well. The luggage bay has stuck firmly too . . . Here are some photos of the rear area of the car, with AJW in attendance ! By mounting the upper body onto the lower body, this spreads the rear wings to position correctly, now that the luggage compartment is fitted . . . Test fitted the rear chrome bumper and also the rear bumper mounting bar to the upper body rear. David 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milo1303s Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 Lookin good man I've been waiting to see this even though not my cup of tee still a great build !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglia105E Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 11 hours ago, milo1303s said: Lookin good man I've been waiting to see this even though not my cup of tee still a great build !!! Thanks very much Bob . . . The best is yet to come, so keep watching ! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 Nice progress on this David. David G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglia105E Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 20 minutes ago, David G. said: Nice progress on this David. David G. Cheers, David G. . . . I shall be turning my attention to the front end of the car shortly, including the chrome radiator grille and the Spirit of Ecstasy ornament. The grille mascot supplied out of the box is a standing figure, and I did notice that most of the Phantom III cars had a kneeling figure . . . David W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglia105E Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 Having examined the chrome radiator grille for the Phantom III, there are clear signs of damage to the surface of the front face, on the driver's side. This has been caused by several failed attempts to remove black enamel wash from the 40 years old chrome, using enamel thinners . . . I decided to deal with the vertical slats of the radiator grille first, by applying Humbrol Matt Black enamel with a fine brush, between the slats. Then, using the pointed end of a cocktail stick, rather than a cotton bud, the excess matt black paint was carefully removed from the chrome slats. This seems to have worked quite well . . . Once the black paint has been allowed to dry overnight, I shall attempt to cover the damage to the chrome area at the top left as you see it in the following photos, using Molotow Liquid Chrome applied by brush . . . Fingers crossed ! David 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 Best of luck with that David. The radiator grille is one of the iconic features of this motorcar and it just simply must be right. But I'm sure that you know that much more than I do. David G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglia105E Posted May 31 Author Share Posted May 31 It was time to move some of the components of this build, from my downstairs room that was being used throughout the Winter period, up to the loft space on the second floor . . . This included the rolling chassis with the V12 engine, the floorboard assembly along with the front and rear seats, the division and glass, also the steering box, steering column and steering wheel . . . I noticed that the exhaust tailpipe and also the silencer had become detached from the chassis, so I super glued these parts back in place, Two of the three foot pedals had also become detached from the floorboard, so these were swiftly glued back in place, using styrene glue. Having examined the chrome radiator grille closely, after 24 hours the Liquid Chrome application has not been successful . . . You are absolutely right by the way David G., this radiator grille is THE most important component of the entire motor car, and as such, it does need to be perfect. I am thinking that the only way to deal with this issue is to scrape off the chrome and redo the part from scratch . . . This is not how I had intended to proceed, but there does not seem to be an alternative . . . I took the opportunity to test fit the firewall and how it aligns with the floor board, and also test fitted the steering column at the same time. Started polishing the front wings of the lower body, and further polishing is required before lowering the body component to the chassis. David 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 Mr. Webb retires to his summer home. Maybe instead of scraping the plating off the radiator and risk damaging the plastic, you could strip it chemically. In the States we have a degreaser/detergent called SuperClean sold at most auto parts stores. I and many others use this as a paint stripper. Simply soaking the parts for a day or two will remove most paint or plating without damaging the plastic. For re-chroming the radiator there are a number of chrome paint products available that do a rather good job. Though I haven't tried it yet, Revell's Chrom Spray has been receiving favorable reports. And since it is I believe, acrylic paint, it should be easier to paint the dark accents the way you want them. The chassis is looking fantastic BTW. Especially seeing it under natural light. David G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 On 5/24/2024 at 5:37 PM, Anglia105E said: Well, I just returned from my annual holiday trip, which extended to 10 days as things turned out . . . Within 24 hours I was back at the workbench, as progress resumed on the Rolls-Royce Phantom III . . . Like a dedicated model builder I was determined to press on. Today was all about applying Tamiya Polishing Compound to the outer cream door panels. The inner door panels have not yet been glued in place, because I needed to grip the doors firmly in order to apply the polishing compound properly, and the chrome door handles would have been easily damaged. I used all three grades, so Coarse, Fine and Finish, and I can see a significant improvement . . . With the doors polished, I set up a simple mock up of the passenger side doors with the upper and lower body. Also, test fitted the inner door panels on the driver's side. David In my research for the kit, I noted that the bottom horizontal strip of the door interior uses carpet material. Not important, but any plans for that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglia105E Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 12 minutes ago, sjordan2 said: In my research for the kit, I noted that the bottom horizontal strip of the door interior uses carpet material. Not important, but any plans for that? Now that is a good observation on your part Skip, and well spotted ! . . . Yes, I have plenty of felt material remaining from fabricating the carpets, so I should be able to cover the lower panel of the interior doors. To be honest, I hadn't picked up on this detail, so thanks for pointing it out to me . . . The following photo is actually a Sedanca De Ville body, but it is the same for the Sports Saloon that I am building. The blue carpet can be clearly seen on the door lower edge . . . I do think this is worth getting right, because when the doors are fully open the carpet is very visible at the bottom. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglia105E Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 7 hours ago, David G. said: Mr. Webb retires to his summer home. Maybe instead of scraping the plating off the radiator and risk damaging the plastic, you could strip it chemically. In the States we have a degreaser/detergent called SuperClean sold at most auto parts stores. I and many others use this as a paint stripper. Simply soaking the parts for a day or two will remove most paint or plating without damaging the plastic. For re-chroming the radiator there are a number of chrome paint products available that do a rather good job. Though I haven't tried it yet, Revell's Chrom Spray has been receiving favorable reports. And since it is I believe, acrylic paint, it should be easier to paint the dark accents the way you want them. The chassis is looking fantastic BTW. Especially seeing it under natural light. David G. Mr Webb is happy now ! . . . Regarding your suggestion to use a product like SuperClean, I do have an oven cleaner product somewhere in my loft space that was very good at removing the chrome from the Minicraft Silver Cloud parts. I shall give this matter some thought, and I do know that Molotow Liquid Chrome produces a nice finish when sprayed through an airbrush. This is an acrylic paint also, well to be precise it is an acrylic ink product . . . The following photo shows the radiator grille viewed from the front of the car, as a mock up exercise . . . See the following update as a daily report . . . David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglia105E Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 As I was feeling rather despondent about the radiator grille chrome issue today, I chose to put together a mock up at this stage, which was more of an exercise to familiarise myself with the assembly order . . . The lower body was fitted onto the rolling chassis, followed by the floorboard and firewall . . . Then the upper body was lowered onto the chassis and floor assembly, without adding the seats and division components at this point . . . The hinged bonnet panels were placed over the firewall, and the radiator components were added. Guiding the driver's side doors assembly into place was tricky, but they are roughly where they should be. To complete this mock up, the two spare wheel casings were inserted into their wells . . . A. J. Webb was on hand to supervise the mock up procedure, which has served to provide a useful preview of the whole car. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugatti Fan Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 Try some C1 Polishing Powder on the radiator slats. Easily applied with a cotton wool bud. Just dip in the powder and tap off the excess from the bud. Then use it by drawing along each slat as though dry brushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglia105E Posted June 2 Author Share Posted June 2 4 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said: Try some C1 Polishing Powder on the radiator slats. Easily applied with a cotton wool bud. Just dip in the powder and tap off the excess from the bud. Then use it by drawing along each slat as though dry brushing. Thank you Noel . . . I just Googled ' C1 Polishing Powder ' and I found two suppliers, but one is discontinued and one is not in stock. That does sound like an interesting product, so a shame it is not currently available . . . Two photos below . . . David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugatti Fan Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 That is disappointing. Have you tried C1 direct? I think that there is another similar metalliser powder out there that I am sure that I have seen advertised but cannot remember the name. Try a net trawl and see what pops up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglia105E Posted June 2 Author Share Posted June 2 2 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said: That is disappointing. Have you tried C1 direct? I think that there is another similar metalliser powder out there that I am sure that I have seen advertised but cannot remember the name. Try a net trawl and see what pops up. Okay Noel, I will have a look at C1 directly . . . Thanks David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugatti Fan Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 (edited) David, the other chrome powder I was trying to think of was by Usci Van Der Rosen. I think that's how it's spelt. I have seen them at Telford. They do wood grain decals too. ref C1's powder Emodels appears to have it in stock when I looked this morning. About £13. Edited June 3 by Bugatti Fan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglia105E Posted June 3 Author Share Posted June 3 4 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said: David, the other chrome powder I was trying to think of was by Usci Van Der Rosen. I think that's how it's spelt. I have seen them at Telford. They do wood grain decals too. ref C1's powder Emodels appears to have it in stock when I looked this morning. About £13. Thanks Noel . . . I see eModels are based in Stoke-on-Trent, and they seem to have the C1 product priced at £13.49 . . . The issue that I have at the moment, is basically what to do with this Phantom III radiator grille. One fellow MCM forums member has suggested stripping all of the chrome off the radiator grille part, using the ' purple pond ' type method, and then starting from scratch by coating the part with liquid chrome. This would mean that the work I have already done on the vertical slats has been a waste of time, and would need to be redone later . . . I am still trying to find a an alternative way of dealing with the problem, without resorting to a complete stripping of the chrome, although that may turn out to be the only option, I fear . . . David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugatti Fan Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 (edited) Probably would not hurt to try the C1 powder. Will save you a lot of work I would imagine. If it doesn't work for you then it is still a useful thing to have in your finishing armoury. You need to follow your own instinct on what way to go forward. As the slats are straight another alternative may be to use Bare Meal Foil, but could be a bit fiddly to apply. Edited June 3 by Bugatti Fan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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