Roll bar, roll cage material.....

[Allan31]

Once upon a time, in a hobby shop far, far away, we used to be able to buy from "Auto World" this stuff they called "Plas-T-Rod".

It was dark grey in color, smooth, stiff but bendable without breaking (like styrene breaks) and was perfect for roll bars and entire roll cages.

  

Without resorting to solder wire, what are we using today, and better yet, what was that Plas-T-Rod stuff anyway and can we get more?

[Ace-Garageguy]

Sorry...can't help you on the Plas-T-Rod. Sounds great. 

EDIT: Hmmmmm...I wonder if this was the magic stuff:   https://www.perigeedirect.com/products/maven-plastics-pvc-gray-flexible-semi-rigid-plastic-welding-rods-coils-reels

Plain old Evergreen or Plastruct styrene rod is pretty much the universal choice for 1/24-1/25, though a few more accomplished builders use brass rod and tube, or aluminum Tig welding rod.

Smaller diameter styrene rod (up to about .080") will take reasonable radius bends cold without cracking if you work slowly and carefully, but not the larger rod. It also tends to spring back, so some form of heat-tempering after bending works best for me.

I've developed several methods to make clean small bends in larger rod, mostly using heat at some point in the process.

I built this cage for a road-racing Chevelle using styrene rod.

Here's some more specific info:

 

Edited February 8, 2024 by Ace-Garageguy

[Ace-Garageguy]

 

[NOBLNG]

I don’t know anything about the Plas-T-Rod, but I have used 3/32” Plastruct tube with wire shoved inside to build a roll cage. 

[Chariots of Fire]

If one is careful you can heat the rod and bend it by using a butane torch but too much heat will burn it or catch it on fire.  Just soften it a bit and it will take a reasonable bend.  You can also try Plastruct in various sizes.  They make tubing and elbows and tees that fit into the tubing.   

[BDSchindler]

2 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

I don’t know anything about the Plas-T-Rod, but I have used 3/32” Plastruct tube with wire shoved inside to build a roll cage. 

I do the exact same thing.  Allows for bends from slight to radical without kinking the plastic.  Works great for shaping plastic tube for exhaust systems.

[bobss396]

I use the 3/32" tubing too. I did use floral wire inside it for a long time. I'll have to try it with 3/64" brass rod or aluminum if I can find it, possibly welding wire? 

[NOBLNG]

18 minutes ago, bobss396 said:

I use the 3/32" tubing too. I did use floral wire inside it for a long time. I'll have to try it with 3/64" brass rod or aluminum if I can find it, possibly welding wire? 

Welding wire might be too stiff? I used some soft ceiling t-bar hanging wire. It is very easily bent.

[ColonelKrypton]

I wonder if that Plas-T-Rod was ABS plastic? 

I don't recall ever encountering this particular product before but I do recall that many years ago Plastruct products were primarily ABS and their styrene products were a more recent addition to their line. 

ABS plastic does require a different cement than what is typically used for poly styrene. 

I have used a variety of materials and techniques for making things like roll cages and chassis bits, mostly poly styrene and in particular model kit sprues when I had or couldn't find anything else. Now however, I tend to use brass tubing and rod along with some poly styrene. It is easily bent and formed particularly if you anneal it first ( heat to near red hot and let air cool ).  It really doesn't matte what you use as long as it something you are comfortable working with and the end results are what you want.

cheers, Graham

[Allan31]

Thanks everyone !!

I forgot about the Plastruct. Living the hills and woods with no hobby shops near means an Amazon order will be here Monday. I may get a package of assorted welding rods and see if any of those work.

I'm thinking I should be looking at the ABS and PVC....

But oh-man, that Plas-T-Rod was the perfect stuff.....

Thanks again, I will do a post about my experiments.

[Oldriginal86]

1 hour ago, ColonelKrypton said:

Now however, I tend to use brass tubing and rod along with some poly styrene. It is easily bent and formed particularly if you anneal it first ( heat to near red hot and let air cool ). 

cheers, Graham

Don’t want to derail this thread but I feel its relevant. When annealing the brass, do you do the entire length or just at the bend? When bending is a mandrel needed? Does something need to be inside the tube to keep it from collapsing? Is the brass like the KBS stuff from the hobby shop or Ace hardware? Thanks in advance.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Plastruct also makes a wire-cored butyrate tubing specifically for bending and holding the bends. 1/16" (about .060", suitable for 1.5 inch roll cage tube) and 3/64" available. Butyrate can be glooed with suitable solvent cement, or CA, or epoxy.

https://www.hobbylinc.com/plastruct-butyrate-coated-wire-1:16-12-model-scratch-building-plastic-tubing-90102

[Allan31]

Perfect Bill, THANKS!! Ordered on evilbay and should arrive by Monday.

On another note, how do I add a signature block to my posts, can't figure that one out.

[Mark]

I had some of the Plastruct wire-core plastic tube.  I recall the wire being tough to bend and even tougher to cut.  It's been a long time; maybe it has changed, but I wouldn't commit to buying any great quantity of it before checking a piece for myself.

[NOBLNG]

If you’re planning to do a fair bit of tubing work, a set of bending pliers will make things easier. I got these at Michaels in the jewelry making section.

[Ace-Garageguy]

1 hour ago, Mark said:

I had some of the Plastruct wire-core plastic tube.  I recall the wire being tough to bend and even tougher to cut.  It's been a long time; maybe it has changed, but I wouldn't commit to buying any great quantity of it before checking a piece for myself.

The secret to cutting the stuff is sharp, hardened-jaw side-cutters that have enough mechanical advantage...not little nippers.

Then dress the ends with a Dremel barrel sander or a very sharp, hard file.

Multiple methods to bend the stuff, like NOBLNG's spiffy pliers, above.

Little bit o' different thinking, but very doable.

Edited February 8, 2024 by Ace-Garageguy

[ColonelKrypton]

7 hours ago, Oldriginal86 said:

When annealing the brass, do you do the entire length or just at the bend? When bending is a mandrel needed? Does something need to be inside the tube to keep it from collapsing? Is the brass like the KBS stuff from the hobby shop or Ace hardware?

You can selectively anneal small sections or the whole piece. I use K&S brass tubing exclusively. I don't use a mandrel, just my fingers or section of wood dowel or whatever is handy and the near the correct size and shape. Annealed K&S brass tubing can be very soft, easy to bend, but also easy to squish if not careful. 

Sometimes I don't even anneal the tubing. 

No, I don't put anything inside the tubing to keep from collapsing. Gentle curves and bends, annealing, slow careful work and I have never had much of problem.  However, in those cases were a really sharp bend is needed and tubing might kink I have resorted to using rod. 

K&S does sell a bendable brass rod as part of their lineup.

cheers, Graham