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Badman C/A (ca. 1975)


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11 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

Finally got around to some photos. I added the pan bolts, made from .030" Plastruct hex stock. I added bolts to the timing cover. Those are model RR hex "NBW" (Nut/Bolt/Washer) castings. While I was at the front cover, I gave the ribs a nice polish. I discovered that I have gotten ahead of myself--when I was "stripping" the kit block assembly of its molded-on oil pan, starter and oil filter, I decided that the oil filter was too skinny-looking for a 1/24th scale engine, ultimately scrapping the mounting assembly, because it was too small for the filter I plan to use (R&D Unique). I don't expect it to be at all difficult, it'll just take a little time. Once that's fixed, I should be able to fit the rear motor plate and cement it into place, followed by the bellhousing and transmission, and install the block assembly into the chassis. I'm sure I'll discover other details I'll want to add, or stuff that needs to be done, first, but, them's my current plans. Thanks for looking!

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You could do one of those remote single or dual oil filter kits where the filters are on the roll bar or frame, and it has lines that goes back to the adapter on the block. Those always look good on a race car.

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On 8/3/2024 at 8:29 AM, Pierre Rivard said:

Just catching up with your beautiful build Daniel. You wrote that you don't plan on the underside to be seen but it more and more looks otherwise as you add  more details to it. The wash and dust on the chassis makes it look like it should. My stuff is much more basic in execution compared to your's but I always wash & dust the chassis if only to add a bit of realism.

Inspirational build for sure

Thank you, Pierre. I enjoy your work--a lot! Your finishes are fantastic, and your presentations impeccable! I agree that some wash and some dust can really add some realism to the finish. Thanks for checking in, my friend!

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On 8/3/2024 at 8:56 AM, bobthehobbyguy said:

Impressive. Coming along nicely.

Thanks, Bob!

 

On 8/3/2024 at 5:54 PM, dwc43 said:

You could do one of those remote single or dual oil filter kits where the filters are on the roll bar or frame, and it has lines that goes back to the adapter on the block. Those always look good on a race car.

I gave that some thought, but, this still needs to be there, anyway, because it's cast to the block. I took care of it, though (see below). I'm pretty happy with it, too! I like the remote filter setup, too!

 

18 hours ago, David G. said:

I continue to be impressed by all the excellent detail work you keep piling onto this kit Daniel!

This is the best version of this model that I can recall seeing put together.

David G.

Thank you, David! I got it a bit farther along...

Sorry for the delay in responding! I finally got enough done to warrant an update! I got the filter mount added. I built it right on the block. I have a couple of bolt heads to add (threaded plugs, actually), but, it's done, otherwise. I need to find the artwork for the filter decals I made for the Supermod. I still need to add the drain plug to the pan, as well. The front and rear plates are mounted, along with the bellhousing, and it fits! Going to slip the trans in and make sure everything's still playing nicely, next. Thanks for looking, and for following along!

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Thanks, guys! 

I still have to build the starter (and add those pesky plugs) before I can permanently install the engine. I printed some decals for the oil filter, and got it painted, and added to the engine. Here's the temporary, test-install. Happy with that! I removed the steering box, so I can push it out on the frame rail, a little more. It'll require building three more u-joints, but it will also make it possible to fit some headers, in there. The canted section of the steering column will make for more visual interest, anyhoo! All your comments are appreciated. Thanks for looking!

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18 hours ago, David G. said:

Wow, talk about eye candy! That oil filter looks like a cherry on a sundae. ? 

Nicely played Daniel, nicely played.

David G.

Thanks, David! I am happy that I have figured out how to somewhat competently make decals. It's nice not to have to paint all my oil filters orange, and hope I have another Fram decal that's small enough!?

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I've been working on the starter. I've spent most of this time figuring out just how to go about building it. I think I finally figured out something that's passable. I ended up turning the solenoid from styrene rod, in order to create the terminal "block", at the front. I drilled the holes for the terminals.  I also turned the front cover of the starter. The bolts on the mounting boss are just stuck on there with the adhesive from the tape I cut them from hex stock, on--mostly so they don't get lost. Two of those will actually be cemented to the bottom of the flange (which, I just realized, can be done, now). The others are backups!? 

Lately, I've been experimenting some, with a "stamping" technique. I used it, here, to make the copper power connection to the starter. Once I'd drilled the hole, in the main starter body, I found a piece of copper wire of the right diameter, and cut it about 3/8" long. I then sanded one end, so that it was smooth and round. Then, using my smallest pin punch (1/16"), and a 10 oz. ball peen hammer, I flattened it on an anvil, using a light, firm tap, if that makes any sense. I was then able to drill it to accept a plastic model railroad hex nut/bolt/washer (heretofore hex NBW) which as inserted into the solenoid's terminal block. Two more hex NBW will make the other connections. Lastly, I'll add hex NBW to make the thru-bolts. Once it's painted and the detailing is complete, it should be pretty cool, I think. Your questions, comments and critiques are always welcomed, of course. Thanks for looking!

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19 hours ago, David G. said:

Daniel, I have to sat that that starter is the most accurate and properly detailed starter I can recall seeing in that scale.

? 

David G.

 

I appreciate that, David. Once I figured out what I was doing, it was a lot of fun! I need to get the "battery" cable attached to it, then, I can weather it a little, and install the engine. 

I forgot to mention that I did the aluminum section with a technique I first used on the injectors for my Supermod. It works great for replicating a cast aluminum look on round objects (aluminum tubing, in this case). I use a piece of flat metal (I used one of my X-Acto aluminum sanding blocks) to roll diminishing grades of sandpaper over the tubing. I used 180, then 240 on this one. I really like the way it looks!

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I didn't realize it had been so long, since I updated this. I haven't done a whole lot. A lot of it has been adding stuff I never had any intention of adding, when I started this. I've somewhat limited myself, based on my initial intent to keep it a "quick and easy" project, without chassis detail, beyond what could be seen below the chassis, however...that starter/battery cable had to go somewhere!? I zip-tied the battery cable and the switch wire together, for a very short distance. Where I really got carried away doing something that will only matter, to me--I didn't want the master cylinder on the firewall, so I scratchbuilt one, and mounted it under the floor. To my way of thinking, explaining why there isn't a master cylinder on the firewall, isn't enough. I figured I had best have one, if I say I have one. Also did a bit of work on the driveline tunnel.

I've also been working out the headers and the angled stacks (think Larson's Chevelle). No significant progress, yet, so no photos...yet. I think it's important to build and install the headers, now. Comments, critiques and questions are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

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