Ferrari F40 1/8

[Ferrarifan]

Next step is the steering column and the steering wheel.

The levers for the lights and indicators on the steering column are too thick.

I replaced them with thinner brass wire.

After that, everything was painted.
The decals on the levers are from the Autograph transkit.
I made the decal for the VIN number myself. By the way, the number is from a real F40.

To improve the steering wheel, there are etched and white metal parts in the Autograph transkit.

After assembling the parts with super glue, everything was painted black.
The emblem on the horn is an etched part. Instead of placing a decal on it, I filled the gaps with yellow and black. Once the colors were dry, I sanded everything flat to restore the metal framing. Then, everything was coated with clear varnish.

To increase the level of realism, the steering wheel was then covered with synthetic leather.
An old leather jacket of my wife's was used as a donor for the synthetic leather.
As already described with the Testarossa, synthetic leather consists of several layers.
The outer layer is made of plastic and is very thin and flexible.
When synthetic leather gets older, the adhesive layer loses its grip and the outer layer can be peeled off.

To cover the steering wheel, I cut out a circular ring and started gluing it on the visible side.
For glue, I again used Britt craft glue.
Once the inner side of the steering wheel cover was glued, the outer side was done. The seam on the real steering wheel is in the middle of the inner side.

In the area of the spokes, small leather segments were then glued on.

To get a clean transition in the seam area, I used a small pair of scissors designed for removing cuticles.
The cut edges were touched up with matte black paint.

Next, it was time for the keys.
Autograph made beautiful etched parts for this.
For the Ferrari logo on the keychain, I proceeded similarly to the emblem on the horn.

That's it again.

See you soon,

Your Ferrari fan

Edited June 2 by Ferrarifan

[beeRS]

This is a fantastic transformation. I love the attention to detail.

[Bugatti Fan]

Really interesting build taking shape here.

Besides the two trans kits you are using, will you also be using any after market items from Model Motorcars who I believe also supply upgrade parts for the old Pocher kits?

[Dann Tier]

Exceptional!...looking forward to more!

[Ferrarifan]

On 6/5/2024 at 9:01 AM, Bugatti Fan said:

Really interesting build taking shape here.

Besides the two trans kits you are using, will you also be using any after market items from Model Motorcars who I believe also supply upgrade parts for the old Pocher kits?

In the meantime they don’t have parts for the F40. But I am lucky that I bought their improved F40 tires as long as they sold it. 

[Ferrarifan]

23 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

Exceptional!...looking forward to more!

Thanks for following!

[Ferrarifan]

On 6/5/2024 at 7:13 AM, beeRS said:

This is a fantastic transformation. I love the attention to detail.

Thanks for the compliment! I try to make it as real as possible😀

[Ferrarifan]

Today the work on the engine begins.

As with the Testarossa, I will make 2 engines.

A standalone model based on the Transkit by Tommaso Iuele.

And the engine that will be installed in the car.
This engine is based on the Pocher model and will be supplemented with parts from the Autograph Transkit and parts from Leadfoot Models.
To ensure this engine is as close to the original as possible, I will make many additional changes and add details.

I started with the engine block that will be installed in the car.
The engine block consists of several parts, including the cylinder heads.

The parts were glued together. As shown in the following pictures, the basic features of the original are depicted. However, many details are missing.

First, I adjusted the area of the intake flanges on the cylinder heads. Molded screws were removed, and cavities were filled. Additionally, all gaps in the adhesive areas were filled with putty. The top surface of the engine block was also filled.

Then, I cut off the cylinder heads with a fine saw.

Next, the engine block was supplemented with ABS parts. The surface to the cylinder heads was doubled with a 1mm plate. The shape in the area of the belt drive was adjusted.

Furthermore, missing oil and water channels and screw connections to the oil pan were added to the sides.

Then the cylinder heads were mounted, and the missing screw connections and ribs in the area of the belt drive were added. Additionally, the surface to the valve covers was doubled, screw connections to the valve covers and the lower half of the bearing shells for the camshafts were added.

The bearing shells were previously separated from the valve covers.

Then everything was primed.

In a direct before-and-after comparison, you can see what can be done with a little patience to improve the engine block.

That's it for today.

Next, the transmission for this engine will be made.

See you soon

Your Ferrarifan

[iamsuperdan]

It's almost comical how poor the original kit parts are.

 

Once again, you do amazing work!

[Ferrarifan]

2 hours ago, iamsuperdan said:

It's almost comical how poor the original kit parts are.

 

Once again, you do amazing work!

You are right! Even models in 1/64 are often more detailed🥴
But on the other hand that’s what I like also. The worse the model is, the more I real modeling I can do.

Edited June 6 by Ferrarifan

[Brudda]

On 5/4/2024 at 12:49 AM, Ferrarifan said:

As announced, today we're continuing with the components of the front axle.

Step 1 - Brake Discs:

I have no idea what Pocher was thinking. Even models in much smaller scales have more realistic brake discs!

Luckily, the Autograph transkit provides worthy replacements. Here, the brake discs consist of etched parts supplemented with cast parts in white metal, metal rivets, and screws. Assembly is done with super glue.

Step 2 - Wishbones:

Existing parts have been optimized or adjusted here. Mounting pins have been replaced with actual screws, and the molded screw heads have also been replaced with real screws.

Step 3 - Shock Absorbers:

Except for the springs, the shock absorbers are completely new. The Autograph transkit provides beautiful metal parts. To achieve perfect ground clearance, these are adjusted to a precisely defined length and glued in place.

Step 4 - Brake Calipers:

Existing calipers have been upgraded here. Etched parts for the Brembo lettering, connecting lines between the two halves, vent valve, and screws. Brake pads were made from foam rubber.

Finally, I added clips with pins to secure the brake pads.

Then the steering linkage and stabilizer bar were revised and everything was assembled.

I made the brake lines from heat shrink tubing. The connection fittings and the distribution block are from Topstudio.

Here's a direct comparison before and after.

Finally, some pictures showing all the details.

That's it for today.

See you soon,

Your Ferrarifan

Beautiful! 

[dietgilroy]

On 6/6/2024 at 2:26 AM, Ferrarifan said:

Today the work on the engine begins.

As with the Testarossa, I will make 2 engines.

A standalone model based on the Transkit by Tommaso Iuele.

And the engine that will be installed in the car.
This engine is based on the Pocher model and will be supplemented with parts from the Autograph Transkit and parts from Leadfoot Models.
To ensure this engine is as close to the original as possible, I will make many additional changes and add details.

I started with the engine block that will be installed in the car.
The engine block consists of several parts, including the cylinder heads.

The parts were glued together. As shown in the following pictures, the basic features of the original are depicted. However, many details are missing.

First, I adjusted the area of the intake flanges on the cylinder heads. Molded screws were removed, and cavities were filled. Additionally, all gaps in the adhesive areas were filled with putty. The top surface of the engine block was also filled.

Then, I cut off the cylinder heads with a fine saw.

Next, the engine block was supplemented with ABS parts. The surface to the cylinder heads was doubled with a 1mm plate. The shape in the area of the belt drive was adjusted.

Furthermore, missing oil and water channels and screw connections to the oil pan were added to the sides.

Then the cylinder heads were mounted, and the missing screw connections and ribs in the area of the belt drive were added. Additionally, the surface to the valve covers was doubled, screw connections to the valve covers and the lower half of the bearing shells for the camshafts were added.

The bearing shells were previously separated from the valve covers.

Then everything was primed.

In a direct before-and-after comparison, you can see what can be done with a little patience to improve the engine block.

That's it for today.

Next, the transmission for this engine will be made.

See you soon

Your Ferrarifan

man, the fact that you could add that much detail to just an engine block alone really shows how weak the Pocher kit really is.

[Ferrarifan]

Before I start with the gearbox housing, the oil pan for the car's engine will be finished first.

The connections for the oil lines on Pocher's oil pan are incorrect. Additionally, the screws are molded on.

After the connections were redone and the screws removed, the oil pan was primed with Tamiya Primer. For the color, I used Aluminum from Vallejo's Acrylic Metal Color series.

To achieve a cast-like surface, I used Micro Balloons, which I added to the paint by feel.

When applying the paint with the airbrush, you can determine how strong the effect will be by applying it multiple times.

I followed the same procedure for the crankcase.

Next was the rear gearbox housing.

Again, all molded screws were removed, and 0.8mm holes were drilled.

Then the part was painted.

The instructions from Autograph specify that M0.8 hex bolts should be used as replacements for the molded screw heads. However, the original has threaded studs, washers, and nuts. So, I clipped the heads off the hex bolts with pliers. Then I attached the nuts and washers to the newly made threaded studs with super glue. This allowed me to simply screw everything into the holes.

In the rear section, four M0.8 nuts were glued into the holes of the muffler mount.

The mount consists of brass bushings soldered with brass rods and etched parts. For this, the transkit includes a jig to solder the parts together precisely.

Next, the clutch housing and the middle gearbox housing were made.

The procedure was the same as for the rear gearbox housing.

Then the individual components were assembled. Since I want to represent the engine in a used condition, an initial wash was done.

Next, I made a frame from ABS profiles. This serves both to stabilize the engine during the next steps and will later be used for the standalone motor display.

Afterward, the mounts for the intercoolers and the heat shield were installed.

Here are a few detailed pictures showing the individual details nicely.

That's it for today.

See you soon,

Your Ferrarifan

[dino246gt]

Your work on this is next level, or maybe even one more than that!

Fantastic F-40!

[Ferrarifan]

31 minutes ago, dino246gt said:

Your work on this is next level, or maybe even one more than that!

Fantastic F-40!

Thanks for the compliment! I always try to push my limits😁

[Ferrarifan]

Next step is the cylinder head covers. In reality, these are powder-coated, giving them a rough surface.

Therefore, I used Micro Balloons again, which I mixed into the paint. The color is Ferrari red from Vallejo.

After painting, the covers were mounted. For screws, I use cap nuts from Autograph. Washers or brass sleeves were added in the area of the camshafts.

I am more than satisfied with the surface of the cylinder head covers.

There are covers on the two outer camshafts. These are from the Pocher kit but were detailed with screws and etched parts from the Autograph transkit.

On the rear side of the crankcase, there is an end cover that is necessary for the oil circuit and also serves as a holder for the TDC sensors. This area is also exposed on the clutch housing.

To replicate this detail, I rebuilt the visible area of the cover from ABS.

The parts were then painted with Brass from True Metal Color and improved with screws and etched parts.

Then the oil line was made, connecting the end cover and the right camshaft cover. The hose clamps are etched parts from the Autograph transkit, and the screws are small watchmaker's screws.

Next, we continue with the housing on which the oil filter and the oil pressure sensor are installed. The part from the Pocher kit is quite basic. The connections for three oil lines are missing.

In the Autograph transkit, there are white metal parts for the connection fittings. These were painted in brass and mounted. The oil pressure sensor was supplemented with the connection line. Additionally, the mounting screws at the base of the housing were added.

The F40 features a dry sump lubrication system. The oil pump is in the oil pan, the oil tank is located at the front right next to the engine, and the oil cooler is at the very back right. Depending on the oil temperature, the oil circulates directly or, if the temperature gets too high, the thermostat valve switches and the oil flows through the cooler.

Autograph has made the thermostat valve with its three connections as a nice white metal part. The same goes for the line that goes from the oil filter to the crankcase.

What is new to me is the way the flexible oil lines are made. In reality, the flexible oil lines are covered with a metal mesh. For this, Autograph includes coaxial cables of different diameters in the transkit. When the outer insulation is removed, you have an almost perfect replica of the original lines. To make the line more flexible, the inner core is also removed and replaced with a flexible wire. The original's crimp sleeves are represented by brass ferrules.

Then everything was installed.

That's it for today.

See you soon

Your Ferrarifan

[Ferrarifan]

Today I start with the cooling system for the engine and the two turbos.

The Autograph transkit includes nice white metal parts for this purpose.

The first part to be made is the T-piece for the turbochargers.
As with the oil lines, coaxial cables and ferrules are used for the lines.

Next were the two collectors, which are mounted on the sides of the cylinder heads.

For this, the transkit includes white metal and etched parts. After gluing the parts together, they were primed and painted in gunmetal.
For screws, I used copper imitations from Knupfer, which were then colored with True Metal Steel.

Subsequently, the parts were installed and given a light wash.

The next step was the bridge that connects the two collectors. The return lines from the turbochargers are also connected here.
The main line then goes forward to the water pump.

The main part is again made of white metal.
The main line is made from a shrink tube.
For the hose clamps, Autograph provides nice etched parts and fine watchmaker screws.

The bridge was then attached to the two collectors using super glue.

Next up was the water pump.

To ensure the water pump fits snugly against the crankcase, the back was doubled up.
The housing is split at the top, where the thermostat is installed. I sawed apart the injection-molded part and added a screw flange.
Then the missing inlet and outlet pipes and screw plugs were added.

After the pump was painted, the missing screws were added.

Then the water pump was mounted.

So that's the current state of construction.

Next time, the timing belt and the associated drive gears, tensioners, and covers are up.

See you soon,

Your Ferrari fan

[Mattilacken]

Great work!

[Ferrarifan]

As previously announced, today it's the turn of the timing belt drive of the camshafts.

Since the two lower pulleys are missing in the Pocher model, I made simplified pulleys from "leftovers" from the Testarossa. They were then painted with Vallejo Steel and glued on.

To protect the timing belt as much as possible, there are cover plates on the back of the belt drive. Autograph made etched parts for this. Since I added the mounting bosses for the timing belt cover and the tension rollers to the crankcase and cylinder heads, the etched parts had to be adjusted accordingly. Additional holes were drilled in the area of the bosses, and the area where the tension rollers are mounted was also cut out. Furthermore, the lower area was cleared to mount the pulleys. Then the plates were primed and painted black.

Here is a picture of the trial assembly.

Even though this area will no longer be visible after the engine is installed, I decided to depict the outer area of the timing belt. As with the Testarossa, the timing belt from a microwave is used.

This was painted black and glued to the pulleys.

The timing belt covers were slightly modified. Molded screw heads were removed and replaced with real screws. In the area of the tension rollers, there is an opening in the original. Since this was missing in the Pocher part, the area was drilled out.

The lower area on the back was cut out for the timing belt, as in the original.

The tension rollers were also made from leftovers from the Testarossa.

Then the rear cover plates and the tension rollers were mounted on the covers.

Finally, the assembled covers were mounted on the housing and the area was given a stronger wash.

To conclude, here are a few detail pictures of this area.

That's it for today.

See you soon,

Your Ferrari fan

[Moparman18064]

All I can say is WOW!!!!!! Enzo would be proud.

[Rattlecan Dan]

Dumbstruck! Don't know where to begin, don't know what to say, just enjoying the view!

[Ferrarifan]

Today, it's the turn of the starter and the alternator.

The starter was only slightly modified. On the back, the stub shaft was replaced by a steel pin. A photo-etched part leftover from the Testarossa and a few screws complete the whole thing.
The wiring to the starter and alternator was a bit more work, as I soldered some of the wires with small washers.

For the alternator, I went all out again.
The base from the Pocher kit is, well...

I removed the molded brackets and split the housing.
Then, ventilation openings were made on the front. Clearances for the screws were made on the back, and ventilation slots and ribs were added.
A spacer was made in the middle.
Even though the detail won’t be very visible, I made a simple coil with windings.
The drive wheel was also reworked.
In the middle is a shaft I made from a steel pin.
The fan wheel is a photo-etched part from the Autograph transkit.

The assembly is done using 3 screws from Autograph.
Finally, connectors for the connection cables were added.

Then, the parts were assembled with screws, nuts, and washers (all from Autograph). The Autograph transkit includes a nice photo-etched part for one of the brackets.

Next, the throttle linkage was on the agenda. This detail is missing in both the basic model and the transkit.
I made the lever from ABS and detailed it with screws.

Another detail is the two knock sensors. I kept these fairly simple.

The parts were then quickly assembled. Afterwards, the newly installed parts were given a light wash.

Here are a few close-ups.

In this construction step, I also mounted the two water temperature sensors that sit on the collector pipe.

That’s all for today.

See you soon,

Your Ferrarifan

[Ferrarifan]

On 6/18/2024 at 12:42 AM, Moparman18064 said:

All I can say is WOW!!!!!! Enzo would be proud.

Thanks for the compliment!😎

[Ferrarifan]

On 6/18/2024 at 1:35 AM, Rattlecan Dan said:

Dumbstruck! Don't know where to begin, don't know what to say, just enjoying the view!

Thanks for following! More details to come😉

[Ferrarifan]

Next component is the main pulley with the vibration damper.

In the Pocher model, the vibration damper is slanted sideways. However, this does not match the original. Therefore, I clamped the part in a Dremel and ground down the side surface.

Since I added the lower pulleys for the camshaft drive, the entire belt drive for the water pump, alternator, and air conditioning compressor shifts forward. Accordingly, I extended the vibration damper backwards.

Afterwards, the main pulley was painted, and the fastening screw was added to the front. To ensure that it is properly tightened, I marked it in yellow.😉

Next, we move on to the air conditioning compressor. As with the alternator, many details are missing here as well.

After removing the molded-in holder, I extended the housing. On the back side, I expanded the end plate and added the connections for the lines. The holder was also reworked, although I did not completely adhere to the original.

Then, everything was painted.

Subsequently, the missing screws, connection fittings, and the electrical connection cable were installed. To enhance realism, I created the original sticker in Photoshop and printed it on a printable metal foil.

Then everything was given a light wash and mounted on the engine. The upper holder is again a photo-etched part from the Autograph Transkit.

To ensure the belts align properly, I had to mount the alternator differently.

Finally, a few detailed shots of the air conditioning compressor.

That's it for today.

See you soon,

Your Ferrarifan