First complete 3D resin kit build, 62 Dodge Power Wagon W100

[Rade8boy]

After FDM printing for a long time I jumped over to resin last fall, I purchased the resin printer in the spring and let it sit in the box, as I read up. After a long learning curve and lots of failures I was able to get consistently good prints. I don't design my own models and buy mostly off of CGTrader. There is a gentleman on that sells car model files on there, this 62 Dodge is one of the models that caught my eye. I now have all the parts printed as seen in the picture, and the Dspiae power sander on the way to help knock down all the small support spots. The chassis took 3 tries to get it right the body, bed and interior all made it on the first pass. This particular model has an actual engine in it, most of the others he sells do not. More pictures after sanding and primer. 

Commentary- Don't jump into resin printing lightly, while the rewards are nice it comes concerns about safety and environment, resin is toxic to wildlife and has to be handled appropriately. I use a corner of my garage but cover it with plastic drop sheets, so I don't turn it into a Super Fund site. 

[espo]

Like the subject and the printing looks great. 

[iamsuperdan]

Andrey's files are really nice, and when finished can look as good as anything bought in a box. So to speak.

It takes a while to get the printing thing down for sure. You look really close. If I might make a suggestion, try lowering your layer height. I print at .02, and my layer lines are almost non-existent now. Yes, it takes longer, but it's less cleanup after. Plus, I find that printing the bodies on an angle of 22 degrees works really well. Not sure why, but I tried several print angles, and that seems to give me the best results.

 

Looking forward to seeing how you finish this one up.

 

[FoMoCo66]

4 hours ago, espo said:

Like the subject and the printing looks great. 

Definitely a subject that doesn't get covered much.

I also think I found the guy on CGTrader. He has a lot of interesting subject maters, but sadly no FoMoCo products?.

[iamsuperdan]

3 minutes ago, FoMoCo66 said:

Definitely a subject that doesn't get covered much.

I also think I found the guy on CGTrader. He has a lot of interesting subject maters, but sadly no FoMoCo products?.

For some reason, Andrey removed all of his Fords from CG Trader. They're all still on Cults though.

[Rade8boy]

Quick update, I had a minor mishap, while the primer was drying on the cab, I knocked it off the table I use to set drying parts as I was moving another project, resin does not survive a fall in a Tamiya paint stand from 3 feet up onto a tile floor. But I am printing a new one at the 0.2 resolution as suggested by iamsuperdan, thanks for that suggestion. Work has progressed on other parts, here are the wheels (Pro Acryl Silver with Vallejo Metal varnish) and tires (Tamiya Rubber) and motor (Rustoleum Turquoise, sorry purists). Still working on the chassis, I printed 2 engine blocks so the mockup for motor mounts is being done with the second one, and this one should just drop in, as it always does in model building. ? 

[RW033]

Looks great! Just curious what printer you are using as I am looking at moving from fdm to resin

[espo]

Tires and engine look great. Sade loss of the cab, but one advantage is you can just print another one. 

[Rade8boy]

I purchased the Elegoo Saturn 2 8k printer and the washing/curing set. I think for all 3 components it was around $600. It's no longer available but the next modles are better and cheaper. It is nice to have both FDM and SLA printers.

[Rade8boy]

A little update, I've reprinted the cab, but I have not done anything to it yet. I have done some work on the interior and chassis. This is what you would call an out of the box build, no wires or other details except for the shifter on the floor. 

[Kenmojr]

Awesome. I was considering getting into 3D printing, but I've heard about the dangers of resin which made me a bit hesitant.

[oldnslow]

Just something I noticed and have a question about , I know the frame is not stock , but shouldn't the transmission crossmember be under the transfer case ?

beautiful work , by the way

[TNT]

Very cool subject. Looks great

[Rade8boy]

Kenmojr, in regard to resin printing, my best advice is to find a good friend who has a resin printer. ? It can be dangerous if not treated with respect and I print in my garage in a corner on an old table covered in plastic. Also, it generates a lot of dangerous waste products like contaminated gloves and paper towels and alcohol, unless you live in a super dry area I don't recommend water washable resins, I live in SE PA and humidity can be a problem, alcohol evaporates much easier. It's great when you get beautiful parts out of it and a PITA with resin and waste. 

 

Oldnslow, the transmission/transfer case only fits above the cross member as it is bowed down to hold it, I looked at the file makers pictures, and it is meant to go on top. I do believe the frame is a bit generic, I also have the 65 GMC pickup and the reframes look almost identical, but I have not printed it yet to compare.  

[Rade8boy]

Another quick update, everything in Tamiya rattle can TS-35 Park Green, no clear coat just the paint sprayed from the can. 

I tried to 3D print the windows in high clear resin, it was not a success they are not clear enough, so I will be printing them in regular resin and then vac u forming them. At least that's the plan. 

[TheGall]

The ol Dodge is comingout great!  Keep up the good work.  

[Rade8boy]

Sorry for the delay, it's been a busy summer. Plus, I had to experiment with trying to 3D resin print clear parts for the windows and light lens. I did not have much success with 3D printing clear parts, they always came out frosted, I tried 2 brands of resin both stated "HIGH" or "WATER" clear. I am 99% sure it's me or the printer/slicer settings I just never got it dialed in and used up the bottles. I switched to printing the parts in standard resin and then vac u formed them, again a trial-and-error process, I got acceptable results and glued them in, not as clear as I'd like but I build at a 75% is good enough for me rate. The last on the list is figuring out Painting the Dodge emblems on the hood and tailgate and the chains on the tailgate, steady hands are not my strength, and eBay turned up no decals that I think would work, I looked at Ray's kits decals and he may have something that might work. Not perfect and I think the chassis has a bit of a twist or something to it, chalking it up to resin building learning process. I have the files, from the same designer, to print the 2020(?) F-250, 2024 Mustang Dark Horse and 2023 Dodge Ram TRX.  

 

[stitchdup]

its looking good. if you want clear to print better try lowering the layer height and printing it as normal. then after cleaning, but before curing brush a little of the clear resin over them and let it settle. now when you cure the parts the lines should be gone. you can also use clear paint but it takes a lot longer. this works better on small parts than windows

[spkgibsonfirebird]

Very nice, I never even knew these existed!! Is there any other year's available? Great looking build!!!! 

[Zippi]

The ole 62 Dodge Power Wagon is looking pretty sharp there Jerry.  

[dino246gt]

On 10/17/2024 at 4:55 PM, spkgibsonfirebird said:

Very nice, I never even knew these existed!! Is there any other year's available? Great looking build!!!! 

I built this one which offered 2 different grilles for different years.

Chassis is generic and engine is way off, but I still enjoyed doing what I could with it.

[titino]

Hello Jerry, the project is very interesting, it is something that interests me a lot. The truck looks very good, the only thing to say something are the tires, in particular I would look for more suitable ones.

 

 

[spkgibsonfirebird]

Great looking truck, are these still available? And what other years are there? 

[Zippi]

Looking pretty good there Jerry.  I just fired up my Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra yesterday and did my first print of the cones of calibration.  All is goiing Great so far.  I already have a complete kit in mind on Cult 3D.  

[Chariots of Fire]

Just a tip for doing the DODGE lettering on the hood.  Before painting cover the letters with Bare Metal Foil.  Trim it close to the outside of the letters but don't bother going in between.  Then do your usual painting.  After the final coat, use a Q tip and thinner and gently remove the paint on the top of the letters.  Just dampen the Q tip.  You don't want the thinner running onto the other painted surfaces.  Tailgate letters might need to be done with decals.  here's what it looks like on a '66 W-300.

Edited December 30, 2024 by Chariots of Fire