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THE OFFICIAL '32 TUDOR SEDAN BUILD-OFF!


mrm

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Here’s the first post-paint mock up. Really happy with the color I chose. If you look close you will see that the interior assembly is in the body. Happy to report it fits perfectly thanks to Drag City Casting bodies being the same exact thickness as the kit bodies they’re based on. The more pliable resin body makes installing the interior WAY easier than the stiffer kit Sedan body. Been there, done that! The two interior floor alignment holes align with the two studs on the frame floor of the newer Roadster chassis perfectly. Thank you, Revell.

The only fit issue I’ve run into (and it’s my own fault for not checking during fabrication ?) is after taping the wheel wells into place the body will not fit down onto the frame properly. The “hat” section of the frame floor is a little wider than the other 32 series frames so it doesn’t fit between the Sedan wheel wells. Some strategic trimming will solve this but it’s a bummer to deal with after paint. I would guess this would also be a problem if trying to mount the 32 series 3-Window, 5-Window or even first gen Roadster body on the newer Roadster frame, so be aware if your thinking of those combinations. 

Also of note: 1) The roof insert and inside of body will be flat black after I get a fresh can. 2) The body has not been polished or waxed yet. 

?

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Edited by Dennis Lacy
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That's looking really nice Dennis. So it is pretty much box stock? Other than the resin body and the wires of course... It's a testament what a great kit this is. 

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47 minutes ago, mrm said:

That's looking really nice Dennis. So it is pretty much box stock? Other than the resin body and the wires of course... It's a testament what a great kit this is. 

Thanks! Below is the kit-bashing breakdown:

Box-stock Rat Roaster and newer chassis & engine (only mod is lowering the rear), radiator & grill.

DCC body.

Sedan kit firewall, hood top, wheel wells, stock 32 taillights and interior with some extra details and 40 Ford wheel.

Original 1998 issue Hi Boy Roadster wheels and rear tires (which are now also in the new Sedan issue), Revell 40 Ford street rod front tires. 

So it’s more kit-bashed than it seems at first glance. ?

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39 minutes ago, Dennis Lacy said:

Thanks! Below is the kit-bashing breakdown:

Box-stock Rat Roaster and newer chassis & engine (only mod is lowering the rear), radiator & grill.

DCC body.

Sedan kit firewall, hood top, wheel wells, stock 32 taillights and interior with some extra details and 40 Ford wheel.

Original 1998 issue Hi Boy Roadster wheels and rear tires (which are now also in the new Sedan issue), Revell 40 Ford street rod front tires. 

So it’s more kit-bashed than it seems at first glance. ?

Gotcha... For some reason I keep thinking that engine comes with the sedan reissue. Maybe because the roadster got reissued right before that. I didn't notice the front tires. Everyone hates on the fronts that originally come with these wheels, but I like them. Especially if you want a full fendered Deuce with a nose in the weeds. 

Edited by mrm
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On 11/2/2024 at 8:25 PM, Dennis Lacy said:

The only fit issue I’ve run into (and it’s my own fault for not checking during fabrication ?) is after taping the wheel wells into place the body will not fit down onto the frame properly. The “hat” section of the frame floor is a little wider than the other 32 series frames so it doesn’t fit between the Sedan wheel wells. Some strategic trimming will solve this but it’s a bummer to deal with after paint. I would guess this would also be a problem if trying to mount the 32 series 3-Window, 5-Window or even first gen Roadster body on the newer Roadster frame, so be aware if your thinking of those combinations. 

I don't recall having that problem...hmmmm????... -RRR

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@Dennis Lacy I just pulled some '32 frames and measured them with my calipers. Rat Roaster (AKA new roadster) frame, 5ive window frame and one from the new sedan kit. I took a measurement at the axle center line/exhaust attach points and all the frames measure the same. I also measured the 'hat' area front to back and they all line up widthwise. I wonder if the resin body is the reason for the fitment issues? I used the rat roaster/new roadster frame under a 3 window (RMCM resin) body and a sedan body (turned into a phaeton) and had no fitment issues in that area....strange... -RRR

 

32 frames.jpg

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1 hour ago, Dennis Lacy said:

@Rocking Rodney Rat

Interesting! It must be the resin body. The wheel wells fit it perfectly but maybe it’s just a little out of shape at the bottom. 

Perhaps the thickness of the resin body is greater than the kit’s part and that’s what creates the issue. I’m in a pickle with my build where I glued the Phantom Vicky wheel wells to the body and now fitting the interior is a major PIA. Since I chopped my own body, I cracked the joints on the B-pillar twice already trying to test fit the interior. 
   It’s always the little unforeseen issues at the end that are the most frustrating. 

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2 hours ago, mrm said:

Perhaps the thickness of the resin body is greater than the kit’s part and that’s what creates the issue. I’m in a pickle with my build where I glued the Phantom Vicky wheel wells to the body and now fitting the interior is a major PIA. Since I chopped my own body, I cracked the joints on the B-pillar twice already trying to test fit the interior. 
   It’s always the little unforeseen issues at the end that are the most frustrating. 

I find it extremely difficult to believe that my resin body was the culprit here. Dennis received one of the first couple castings out of the mold, which would be more exact and on-point then the casting I compared here to Dennis' master. This casting is somewhere around the 50th one out of the mold and it is darn near spot on. If it is a hair thicker (on the sides) it would barely be noticed and certainly not cause any fitment issues since the body can easily be spread out or pinched in to fit a chassis.......and any amount of play needed here would not even equate to the wall thickness of the casting either. I am one of the few resin casters who pays strict attention to things of this nature. I am constantly comparing wall thickness of the castings to the original master throughout the life of a mold and try to correct any casting procedures (if needed/or possible)....again, if something were to crop up. I also design my molds in such a way as to prevent this from occurring in the first place. While I can completely understand how one would quickly come to your (possible) conclusion based on the history of castings in the automotive hobby over the past 20+ years I would still like to make it known that this is not likely the case here! LOL!

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19 minutes ago, krassandbernie said:

I find it extremely difficult to believe that my resin body was the culprit here. Dennis received one of the first couple castings out of the mold, which would be more exact and on-point then the casting I compared here to Dennis' master. This casting is somewhere around the 50th one out of the mold and it is darn near spot on. If it is a hair thicker (on the sides) it would barely be noticed and certainly not cause any fitment issues since the body can easily be spread out or pinched in to fit a chassis.......and any amount of play needed here would not even equate to the wall thickness of the casting either. I am one of the few resin casters who pays strict attention to things of this nature. I am constantly comparing wall thickness of the castings to the original master throughout the life of a mold and try to correct any casting procedures (if needed/or possible)....again, if something were to crop up. I also design my molds in such a way as to prevent this from occurring in the first place. While I can completely understand how one would quickly come to your (possible) conclusion based on the history of castings in the automotive hobby over the past 20+ years I would still like to make it known that this is not likely the case here! LOL!

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Good stuff, Ed! -KK

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7 hours ago, mrm said:

Perhaps the thickness of the resin body is greater than the kit’s part and that’s what creates the issue. I’m in a pickle with my build where I glued the Phantom Vicky wheel wells to the body and now fitting the interior is a major PIA. Since I chopped my own body, I cracked the joints on the B-pillar twice already trying to test fit the interior. 
   It’s always the little unforeseen issues at the end that are the most frustrating. 

"I cracked the joints on the B-pillar twice already trying to test fit the interior." 

I had the same problem with my build of the 32 Sedan, - and I was using just the parts from the kit - frame, interior walls and body shell.

I swear the assembled frame/interior side walls are wider than the open bottom of the body shell....due to the vertical taper of the body shell from the top to the bottom.

So, I struggled to get the darn interior inserted in the body.

I cracked the pillars of my chopped roof several times trying to insert the interior...the narrow pillars of a chopped roof don't respond well to stress.

I'll probably be reinforcing the pillars with brass pins if I build another one with a chopped roof.

The stock un-chopped kit roof probably does ok.

When the original '32 sedan reissue thread began...I posted this building tip from Tim Boyd for '32 sedan kit

Maybe it will help some of you working on one.

 

Revell 32 Ford Tudor Sedan body interior fit issue.jpg

Edited by SpeedShift
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38 minutes ago, SpeedShift said:

"I cracked the joints on the B-pillar twice already trying to test fit the interior." 

I had the same problem with my build of the 32 Sedan, - and I was using just the parts from the kit - frame, interior walls and body shell.

I swear the assembled frame/interior side walls are wider than the open bottom of the body shell....due to the vertical taper of the body shell from the top to the bottom.

So, I struggled to get the darn interior inserted in the body.

I cracked the pillars of my chopped roof several times trying to insert the interior...the narrow pillars of a chopped roof don't respond well to stress.

I'll probably be reinforcing the pillars with brass pins if I build another one with a chopped roof.

The stock un-chopped kit roof probably does ok.

When the original '32 sedan reissue thread began...I posted this building tip from Tim Boyd for '32 sedan kit

Maybe it will help some of you working on one.

 

Revell 32 Ford Tudor Sedan body interior fit issue.jpg

Both stock body and resin chopped one would allow some flex we don’t have with bodies with weaker b-pillars due to a chopped stock plastic. 

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5 hours ago, krassandbernie said:

I find it extremely difficult to believe that my resin body was the culprit here. Dennis received one of the first couple castings out of the mold, which would be more exact and on-point then the casting I compared here to Dennis' master. This casting is somewhere around the 50th one out of the mold and it is darn near spot on. If it is a hair thicker (on the sides) it would barely be noticed and certainly not cause any fitment issues since the body can easily be spread out or pinched in to fit a chassis.......and any amount of play needed here would not even equate to the wall thickness of the casting either. I am one of the few resin casters who pays strict attention to things of this nature. I am constantly comparing wall thickness of the castings to the original master throughout the life of a mold and try to correct any casting procedures (if needed/or possible)....again, if something were to crop up. I also design my molds in such a way as to prevent this from occurring in the first place. While I can completely understand how one would quickly come to your (possible) conclusion based on the history of castings in the automotive hobby over the past 20+ years I would still like to make it known that this is not likely the case here! LOL!

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I was most definitely NOT dissing on your bodies. I have few of them (although not the sedan) and they are the best I’ve seen. It was just a possible suggestion because every once in a while chit just happens. 

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1 hour ago, mrm said:

I was most definitely NOT dissing on your bodies. I have few of them (although not the sedan) and they are the best I’ve seen. It was just a possible suggestion because every once in a while chit just happens. 

I know you weren't.........and I certainly did not take it that way. I was just clarifying for anyone else reading because we both know someone would take your remark to mean that most resin is prone to be thicker than styrene parts and cause fitment issues like being discussed here. Then I would possibly lose out on sales because of that assumption.

Edited by krassandbernie
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Well, in other news from around the world. my interior is almost ready. 

That's about 30 additional pieces of styrene stock, cut out. bent to shape and glued to make a custom interior mixing something old with something new.

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On 5/27/2024 at 7:47 PM, mrm said:

OK... This was just bound to happen! So because of the recently reissued '32 Tudor Sedan by Revell, I would like to start a group build-off. 

Some really simple rules:

* ONLY 1932 Tudor Sedans in 1:25/1:24, no matter the kit manufacturer. No Vickies, no Phaetons (even if based on chopped Tudor), no '31s, no Woodies etc... you get the idea.

* Any body allowed. Kit's, 3D printed, resin... as long as it is a '32 Tudor Sedan. Some of the great resin cast four door bodies are also permitted. Delivery sedan conversions also allowed. Chopped or stock.

* No previously finished models permitted in this thread. This is a fresh challenge. You can enter an already started project, but only if it is no more than 30% complete. 

*Build-off starts now and the finish line is October 15th. That's almost 5 months, which should give everyone plenty of time to complete their Tudor, considering the subject matter. 

                                                                                                         ??? !!! LET'S GET THIS PARTY STARTED !!! ???

Deadline has come and gone but that doesn't really matter. I am more curious to see what happens next! Will there be a sister thread with just finished 32 Tudors'?

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All the work you guys have done in this thread has been fun to watch. My own build hasn't moved from the last update as i grew to dislike the way it looked but i think i have a way to fix it. its still going to be much the same at the back but i'll remove a few mil from the intakes on the running boards as it sits much to tall and the front fenders are getting swapped again. i've not given up on it but i need to find my direction with it. it will be staying ev powered

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4 hours ago, James2 said:

Deadline has come and gone but that doesn't really matter. I am more curious to see what happens next! Will there be a sister thread with just finished 32 Tudors'?

Deadline was moved to the 13th of November.  Hence the lucky number on my engine.

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20 minutes ago, Mr. Metallic said:

I was going to join in on this late in the game, but when I opened my Orange Crate kit I found that the body was trashed. Anyone have an extra? 

I do actually, but there is an impending postal strike up here in Canada, if you don’t find one let me know. 

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13 hours ago, James2 said:

Deadline has come and gone but that doesn't really matter. I am more curious to see what happens next! Will there be a sister thread with just finished 32 Tudors'?

I just made a thread in "Under Glass" for it.

Please guys, post all your finished work here:

 

Edited by mrm
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