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Posted

Worked on the RH side headers. Different challenges such as starter motor and engine mounts dictated that the dumps would be at the front so the headers are not symmetrical. Got some collectors made up from heat shrink shrunk over a former.

Collectors being made up

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RH side header with super tight clearances. I had to notch the motor mount and relieve guard a little

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On a roll so I made up the front pipes from 2mm solder. I had prepped the kit mufflers by drilling out the inlet and outlets to 2mm after cleaning up. I am liking using solder for exhausts as the dimensions are consistent, round and easy to bend.

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Time for a mock up check the engineering.

Thanks for looking

  • Like 6
Posted

I did a bit of tidying up a few loose ends on the frame-chassis as well as some more cleanup work on the body.

I could use a little bit of help here, I am trying to find a good location for the gas filler door and I’ve got an area penciled in where I think I could put it but I’m not really liking the location. Do any of you guys out there have any good ideas for this? Because the intention here is is that the gas tank is either gonna be behind or underneath the rear seat.

I would appreciate any comments and help especially in this area. Thanks for looking..

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  • Like 5
Posted

I too am thinking where best to put a filler as I have done away with the original tank. The tank location would be under the rear seat. My thoughts are below the belt line as then the fill pipe would be behind the seat - about a third of the way down. Being a modern take on the build a filler door would be good or one of those flashy filler caps like Kindig does.

  • Like 2
Posted
14 hours ago, bill-e-boy said:

I too am thinking where best to put a filler as I have done away with the original tank. The tank location would be under the rear seat. My thoughts are below the belt line as then the fill pipe would be behind the seat - about a third of the way down. Being a modern take on the build a filler door would be good or one of those flashy filler caps like Kindig does.

That’s one of the main reasons why I’m having to relocate my gas filler-cap too.

After my modification of the rear frame rails, kicking them up, It eliminates the gas tank stock location, the most common place to put It is underneath or behind the rear seat. So I’m exploring a couple of different options. Like maybe behind the license plate make the plate a flip down sort of thing I don’t know.

Keep going on your 32. I’m really liking your details that you’re getting into and your fabrication. It’s very inspiring, keep at it and finish it up. Please.

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks for the kind words Michael.

I kicked my frame rails up so that I could get the Lil John rear end in and have the wheels fill the rear guards. Then came the question of where to put the fuel tank. As usual one modification here then creates a whole bunch of issues there

Build time over the next couple of weeks is going to be patchy as it is now the summer silly season down these ways

Merry Christmas and a happy New Year to all 

Cheers

Bill-e-Boy

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I trust everyone had a pleasant Xmas and New Year

Have got back to the Deuce and assembled chassis and body for a mock up to check all is well

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From the pix it looks like there is a little finessing required around the rear of the body where it meets the guards. The front track is way too wide so I will narrow that down a bit - looks a little bit too 70's for my liking. The stance is good, so I am happy there. I have been working on the body cleaning up all the little gnarly bits from the chop and getting ready for paint

Thanks for looking - till next time

 

 

  • Like 9
Posted (edited)

I was able to get the body and interior mounted on the chassis for the final time on my 32 Tudor. I’m hoping to finish it up in the next couple of days.

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Edited by catpack68
  • Like 12
  • Thanks 2
Posted

The front track of the AMT 32 Vickie was way to wide and the tire stuck out side of the guards - good for a 70's look but nowadays not so.

I removed the boss from the Vickie wheel inners and messed with the disc brake spacing but I could not get enough back space. Then I looked closer at the Vickie wheel inner and it spaces the wheel out by about 2.5mm. That needed to go. I had a quick search through the parts bin but could not find a suitable rear inner or an outer I could modify to suite. The tyres are 17" and the id needed to be 17.3mm and most of my old wheels are in the parts box are 15"so no surprises there. So, I went to my lathe and turned up some wheel inners which is a fairly simple operation. After parting off at the flange end I cleaned that end up and put a small step like real wheels have and then polished them with some aluminum polish. They fit like a dream and really look the part and I now have enough back spacing to get the tires inside the guards and a bonus is a little more drop in the front because the tires aren't hanging up on the guards

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Nothing can beat the looks better of polished ally than real polished ally

Thanks for looking

  • Like 8
Posted

Been working on the bodyworks. Cleaning up and getting a coat of primer ready to clean up hopefully for the last of the primer coats.

I mixed some red into the Tamiya white primer as the end colour is to be red. Shot some on the chassis and body

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And then a coat of Tamiya LP-79 flat red as a base coat. I have found Tamiya metallic colours do not cover that well so any help we give them hopefully the better the outcome - anyway looks better than pink

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and finally some colour

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Clear to come

Thanks for looking

 

 

 

  • Like 6
Posted

Back at the bench & working on the upper door frames:

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Kinda beat up & need to be replaced...

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Donor upper door frame...

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Removed the rough resin door frame...

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  • Like 8
Posted

All....been away from this thread for a while and returned today to see a whole bunch of really great work from all of you.  It is really inspiring to see each of you face your build challenges and you stretch for creativity and realism and eventually prevail. 

For my 2 cents, I would encourage all to persist and bring your projects to completion, even those that aren't turning out quite the way you envisioned.   An imperfect but completed model project is always better - at least to me - than a pile of partially completed arts sitting in a box never to see the light of day again.  

In all, what a great body of work!  Big congratulations to you all!   TIM l

 

 

  • Like 7
Posted

I have been chipping away at my sedan. I sprayed the tinted Tamiya primer on the guards and floor boards etc in preparation for a final sand before colour

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I cleaned up the Lil' John rear end. My version is from a 34 Coupe and had really quite bad flash so all of the chrome had to come off. On Lil'Johns 26 T where the rear end originated from is mostly billet ally so all of the parts were painted in SMS aluminum. The traction bars and tie rods were highlighted with  Molotow chrome pen. The front end was stripped and cleaned and painted with SMS cold tone chrome over gloss black. All of the chassis components shown here ready for assembly and some more detailing

image.jpeg.7caf9a5d28af3a64b735eb818553d742.jpegDetailing the radiator. Main color is SMS aluminum with Tamiya Fine Line Accent flowed in between the fins. A final dry brush with some aluminum (not shown here) to complete.

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Thanks for looking

  • Like 7
Posted

Bashing away at my build. Details, details and a few more details

Added brake lines to the master cylinder.

The lines are 32g hobby/bead making wire

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Motor is now assembled with the headers fitted. Headers painted with SMS stainless steel

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Prepping front brakes with hoses. Hose is 0.48mm and holes are 0.52m. Wire held in with superglue

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I had an oops when I went to install the rear coil over assembly and found there was nowhere to mount them to. I had to make a little bracket to mimic where the coil overs mounted on the Li'l John chassis. Installed the new mounts and finished off the rear end assembly. Also got the front end all together as well. 

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The rear wheels halves needed clamping together and are now waiting for glue to dry. Fronts have been assembled

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Next up is install motor and wheels - whoopee

Thanks for looking

  • Like 4
Posted
10 hours ago, bill-e-boy said:

Bashing away at my build. Details, details and a few more details

Added brake lines to the master cylinder.

The lines are 32g hobby/bead making wire

image.jpeg.a0e5a80e8472a5153c6d2b99799627bb.jpeg

Motor is now assembled with the headers fitted. Headers painted with SMS stainless steel

image.jpeg.0c1fc3d4b8be33b942cb5ba6a8e60f55.jpeg

image.jpeg.f4b176b58486a2e76e62f69a8b1dbe77.jpeg

Prepping front brakes with hoses. Hose is 0.48mm and holes are 0.52m. Wire held in with superglue

image.jpeg.f407bb87ad261183fdffaf96697d2c63.jpeg

 

I had an oops when I went to install the rear coil over assembly and found there was nowhere to mount them to. I had to make a little bracket to mimic where the coil overs mounted on the Li'l John chassis. Installed the new mounts and finished off the rear end assembly. Also got the front end all together as well. 

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 image.jpeg.94b25910526472b4e1abc8f3d635d0c9.jpeg

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The rear wheels halves needed clamping together and are now waiting for glue to dry. Fronts have been assembled

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Next up is install motor and wheels - whoopee

Thanks for looking

 

Looking good Bill! I forget, is that the Phantom Vickie chassis, or did you use the 37 Ford IFS?

  • Like 1

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