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The tires needed to be sanded and when I first got my lathe back in the 90's I made this nifty fixture that came in handy.  I was surprised at how different the rears were in diameter when I trued them up prior to hitting them with a sanding stick.  At least they were fairly round.

uf3P7uQ.jpg

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Originally I was going to make all three cars have matching tire lettering as each kit has variations of the Goodyear Eagle decals.  The Rain-X and Hot Wheels have lettering for radials, but they are not exactly the same size and the Sunoco has bias ply lettering.  None of the decals match the molded in raised lettering so I applied them to what should be the inside walls.  I wasn't in the mood to print two more sets of the bias ply versions so I went with the kit decals from each kit; inaccurate or not. 

The Rain-X ones had so much extra clear it was a requirement to trim them, but they went on well.  The Hot Wheels also needed the clear trimmed because it was poorly registered to the white letters, and they went on almost as well.  Neither of those set work with decal solvents.  The Sunoco ones required no trimming and worked well with decal solvent.

Rain-X on the left, Sunoco on the right.

ZklqdyW.jpg

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Beautifull work there! The wheels on these ar the one thing i have had the biggest problem with, They have always seemt to shalow in front, But you did a great jobb on them as always. I have the RainX kit but no decals so in the future i guess i will make a custom racer.

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On 8/13/2024 at 9:33 AM, Scale-Master said:

Thanks Rich!  Matching the spot printed colors on the Sunoco wasn't a big problem; I've had a lot of practice, it's the dot pattern of the litho printed decals (like the Hot Wheels car) that's frustrating.

Sometimes I clear the decals before use.  I prefer not to, but in some cases it is the better option over creating new ones when replacements aren't available.  I have a 1/43rd project that will require that technique to salvage most of the decals, I usually just use Future or Tamiya X-22 and hand paint them trying to stay inside the existing spot printed clear.  If it's not a complicated sheet I'll spray the whole thing.

 

I give you props for dealing with all the decal issues. If I suspect a decal sheet is going to be troublesome, I put a hi-res scan of it in my PC. If the original sheet fails, I have a .bmp file to manipulate into a water slide decal. (Though I am running low on my Testors decal clear coat).

The pic is of some decals I made from scratch to make a 1/25 Hotwheel for a contest years ago.

DSCN3875-vi.jpg

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