NuNu Porsche 935 K3

[Technics]

For my permanent return into the 1:24 scale I promised myself to allow myself to do something not elaborate and simply box stock. Ease into the difficulty levels and allow lots of dry time, overkill long really. There’s no worse feeling then having paint lift with masking tape or gumming up while sanding etc etc. since the 80s I have built 50-60 models. A handful of them didn’t traumatize me, the rest have.

 

I had this one in the stash for a while and thought it would be a good candidate to continue my journey.

The main goal is a nice box stock build and an attempt at light weathering if I can stomach it. Been wanting to try for 30 years it’s time.

 

I started by clipping the exterior bits and gluing them in place. There is many glues to use today or maybe there always was but this is a first for me, using super glue. I really don’t like holding items in place to wait to dry so I am trying another method to what I am normally used to doing.

 

I am no historian so I am going for gut feeling and visual excitement. Roughly 95% box stock?
 

I sanded away the hood pins and cut in where I’d like the tow hook to stick out of. I am using aftermarket parts for both.
 

I have a plan to paint the rear section of the 935 black as I always liked how it looked on the wide body race cars. 
 

The body sits in Tamiya primer.

 

 

 

[Pierre Rivard]

Happy returns Technics. Always great to see builders come back to the hobby. Suggest you pass on the black rear end as it was done on the 935/77 but not on this K3. 

[Technics]

@Pierre Rivard I appreciate your input. Maybe MAYBE if I can weather a the rear a bit full of exhaust soot and grime I will keep it white. I have time to think about it still.

 

Tamiya white from the can went on as mist coats at first to two final wet coats. I gave ample dry time between each coat once I felt the paint job was finished before the application of decals started.

 

I took my time and applied all decals. For complex surfaces I used Micro SOL / SET for the first time. I’m sure I could have been more efficient or careful but it worked far better then I imagined and much nicer then I remembered how decals have been without help of solutions.

 

For the high level surface deviation fuel filler caps on the hood I cut the decals into three parts to have a nicer result. These heights are higher then they should be so in retrospect they should have been sanded down to be more realistically scale and deviate less.

 

I accidentally applied two corner blisten decals to the front of the body instead of bosch. I have not decided if I will correct it. I will not be applying the same decals to the rear as the box suggests as the plan is to have the entire area painted black as I like how it looks on these cars.

 

The decals have been setting and drying / curing for weeks, it will be months really before I have the chance to begin to mist the Tamiya clear on in order to have them sealed before moving onto the black trim areas. 

 

I have yet to spray clear over decals so I’m taking no chances of rushing between layers of paint, chemicals, materials, my sloppy fingers prints, off gassing paint etc.

 

I am happy how it is looking as this is the furthest I have taken a race car build without large decal mishaps.

 

The project is being shared chronically as it happened. The exterior site curing for now as life logistics of the summer have taken over till the autumn.

 

Edited July 12, 2024 by Technics

[Technics]

Chassis

I like the idea of having the exterior done to a nice level or completely finished before getting into the chassis or interior so I don’t feel everything was done in vain if it doesn’t turn out. In any case I simply glued the chassis together and painted the key components, began to dry brush and dust on some weathering. I am happy with the result so far.

[Technics]

Interior 

For the interior I cut down some spru into small circular pieces to mimick the warning lamps on the  instrument panel better as they were tiny molded in nibs. I then gave them a large dab of Tamiya clear aryclic paint. Afterwards I gave all dials a large dab of transparent gloss acrylic to simulate a lens / glass better instead of just having a raw decal in there. The RPM gauge is definitely on an angle as I’ve seen most race cars especially Porsches have the top end redline area more centered in view then lower down if they were to sit in standard rotation.

Always having a reference of reality up it helped me try to match the colour of the warning lamps I mixed various clear paints to try to get the right hue and shades.

I added a few aftermarket details and flocked the top of the instrument panel. The fire extinguisher got chrome tape applied mimicking metal fasteners. Added a simple hose to the extinguisher and brake lines to the bias booster, I tried for the first time using tiny zip ties from a aftermarket truck detailing company. They were really fun to apply securing the two hoses together I thought they look convincing enough.

On the interior I glued things in their place and added a bit of detail by adding a brake bias knob and extending the shifter linkage to pass through the rear firewall. Not sure the angles are correct but I adjust them to work. Ultimately many details will be not seen but the overall impression is what matters. I also added some simple hoses.

Edited July 15, 2024 by Technics

[Technics]

The back of the front seat I painted and hastily weathered. The seat lacked cutouts for the side harness straps so made cutouts for those. I then proceeded to flock the seat painting it first in a humbrol enamel paint then sprinkling on the flocking powder. I will let it dry and shake off any loose fibres. It’s not perfect but it’s far nicer than a painted seat in my opinion. Next up will be the safety harness which I will use a scale production detail set for.

[Gramps46]

I am really happy to see your build.   I have the NuNu kit which I bought as a replacement for the old Black Box kit which got such bad reviews.

[Technics]

The decals had months to dry. I layed down two coats of TS clear last week and play the wait game again until I begin to mask to paint the black areas.

I have experienced so many paint errors over the years with masking I had to do a quick test with masking on a spare parts tree Vallejo Matt black paint / primer. The mask worked nicely the line is crisp and sharp. The other paint tested purely for its colour is Tamiya rubber black.

The Nunu kit lacks 100% accuracy, fit and complete instructions there’s items visible on the box photos then not on the parts tree nor instructions. In any case it’s still very good.

From a thin sheet of plastic I attempted to make the dual black diffusers. They’re not perfect but will look decent I feel.

I decided to include LED’s to this project. As I am coming from the 1:10 rc hobby I thought it would be really neat to have a remotely controlled led system to turn on the fog lamps and brake lamps.

I have never attempted something in this scale so it’s a learning curve with volts, ohms, ultimately batteries I have not once used. 

I mocked up a 1:10 version of a remotely controlled light kit that is powered by dual AA batteries. I combined components readily available online and it worked. So once I was satisfied I am now beginning to dive into how to make it small, really small. Here are are 0.5mm LED’s I just received connected to a 3V button battery. I am really impressed by their stength and dumbfounded by their size…. These were not the smallest available either !

I am very inspired. I am thinking of having this finished in time for a local IPMS exhibit ( I haven’t entered a competition in 22 years!

I will try to weather it as well.

Thanks for reading.

 

 

 

Edited September 25, 2024 by Technics

[Gramps46]

Glad  to see the progress update.

[Technics]

I tried to mask the complex lines twice and simply did not have the confidence to continue with the method. I will try painting these areas with with liquid mask. 

 

[Rich Chernosky]

Really  nice work on a great kit.   The lights are cool.   Did you happen to get the PE kit for this model.  Its well worth it. 

[Technics]

@Rich Chernosky Hi! Thank you. No I didn’t pickup the detail up kit.. This kit was an unplanned purchase that was too good to pass up on auction locally. I have some detail up kits for future builds but I always struggled with justifying extra content for a kit as the base kit will be littered with mistakes, accidents and material expiration ?? against my will of course. 

 I masked the rest of the body and shot  flat black by Vallejo. 
 

 

[Technics]

Paint went on ok. Sadly of course with some setbacks - lines aren’t perfect and the liquid mask attacked the clear some places more then others.

Nothing comes easy in this hobby. I’ll try another method next time.  It’ll be the first 1:24 model l will complete in 20 years after all. Onward and upward.

I began gluing on some details.
 

 

 

[Technics]

I had a strike of luck with how the window trim turned out. Never had it turn out this good   I first tried hand brushing it with a XF paint. Awful results. I cleaned for 30 minutes with X20A. 

Got great results with New tape, new blade, new paint and a new can of TS Flat black. 

I used a new product AK crystal magic for bonding the clear parts quickly and well. It will be a new favourite.

The kit comes with a few trees of unused parts for the different variants they released. I mistakenly did an incorrect wrong rear window, will return with the correct rear window and move onto lamps and finally some light weathering!

 

[Technics]

I further test and mocked up more accurately how the front lamp will sit in the body. The lens is not finished yet.

Note the scale in the photo with the Q tip and foglamp reflector.

I am really excited by how it will look. I find you don’t see many going through the effort of doing lamps. In a lineup of cars it’ll drastically stand out. For the better in my opinion!

I’ve also soldered it to a battery box to test that a physical switch works. Next will be soldering all the lamps together with their respective resistors and see how it works with a remote.

 

[Technics]

Spent a good hour trial and error masking the rear lamps until I was satisfied with the line. This is some of first times I am experiencing success with masking.  I am very pleased. I glued in all the windows, lamps, and applied more decals.