Buyer beware

[Ace-Garageguy]

9 hours ago, michelle said:

as a classic tv theme lyrics say the world don't move to the beat of just one drum what might be you may not be right for some 
i feel that these lyrics can apply to this discussion and how to view it 

The thing to remember is simply that excellent results can be obtained from a lot of paint products not intended specifically for models, but not all of them, and that in general, those without a lot of experience (and the judgement that comes with it) will have a much easier time using paint materials marketed for modeling...though at a somewhat higher price.

[StevenGuthmiller]

15 hours ago, stavanzer said:

Better for you, maybe, but much of this thread, has revolved around the fact that many other modelers, are not you, and do not have the same skills or experiences you have or have had with Dupli-color, Rust-oleam, Krylon and other paints. I am glad for your advice and glad you get the results you get, but not everybody is you.... Or Donn Yost, or Ace....

 

Well, I don’t even use Tamiya paint, so I don’t even have a dog in this hunt, (not much bigger than a chihuahua anyway) but I don’t think you’re going to get very many claims that Rustoleum is a better product, especially for modeling, than Tamiya.

 

 

 

Steve

[Kenmojr]

I still have some old bottles of Pactra and cans of Humbrol paint that has not dried up. They were purchased in the 1970s when I was a youth. I opened them up a couple of years ( 2 or 3 years ago) to see if they were dried up. Most were not. A few got tossed away due to being dried solid. Probably due to me in the 1970s not tightly sealing the lid covers and tops.

[stavanzer]

I just bought a can of Testors Extreme Lacquer  in a Teal Colour on clearance at JoAnn's. I found this thread, but it never answers my question. Do I need Primer under this, or can I paint bare plastic with it?

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

Ya better prime.

It’s lacquer.

It’s always a good idea to prime regardless of what you’re using.

 

 

Steve

[Ace-Garageguy]

20 minutes ago, stavanzer said:

I just bought a can of Testors Extreme Lacquer  in a Teal Colour on clearance at JoAnn's. I found this thread, but it never answers my question. Do I need Primer under this, or can I paint bare plastic with it?

If you look at a lot of old threads, it's not uncommon to see paint "pull away" from edges and door openings, etc. (leaving a light or dark outline next to the panel line or edge) when it's shot over bare plastic, though remarkably, many builders don't even notice.

Primering and sanding prior to painting is definitely recommended.

EDIT: I also recommend scuffing bare plastic with hot water, Comet, and a toothbrush prior to primer. Works much better than sanding, doesn't obliterate fine detail like scripts, and gets into all the little nooks and crevices.

Rinse very well, dry, then wipe with 70% isopropyl alcohol on a clean white paper towel.

 

Edited September 11 by Ace-Garageguy
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

[ewetwo]

Great advice Ace. I'll try this next time. 

"EDIT: I also recommend scuffing bare plastic with hot water, Comet, and a toothbrush prior to primer. Works much better than sanding, doesn't obliterate fine detail like scripts, and gets into all the little nooks and crevices.

Rinse very well, dry, then wipe with 70% isopropyl alcohol on a clean white paper towel."

[Brutalform]

On 9/10/2024 at 8:29 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

If you look at a lot of old threads, it's not uncommon to see paint "pull away" from edges and door openings, etc. (leaving a light or dark outline next to the panel line or edge) when it's shot over bare plastic, though remarkably, many builders don't even notice.

Primering and sanding prior to painting is definitely recommended.

EDIT: I also recommend scuffing bare plastic with hot water, Comet, and a toothbrush prior to primer. Works much better than sanding, doesn't obliterate fine detail like scripts, and gets into all the little nooks and crevices.

Rinse very well, dry, then wipe with 70% isopropyl alcohol on a clean white paper towel.

 

Comet and a toothbrush works like a charm, even for resin. Great way to remove the release agent in the resin kits and parts. I wouldn’t use the alcohol on resin afterwards though. On the plastic it would be ok.