ICM Model T Ford 1913 Roadster

[BK9300]

Very fine looking build, David

[Anglia105E]

6 hours ago, BK9300 said:

Very fine looking build, David

Thanks Brian . . . This 1:24 scale build is getting the kind of attention that I gave to the 1:16 scale Rolls-Royce build . . .

David

[Kenmojr]

Interesting build. I always wondered what these ICM kits were like.

[David G.]

Good progress on this David!

Making a fuel tank seems like a fun idea, something I would probably do too.

It must be a "David" thing.  

David G.

[LennyB]

David I just love the way this looks. And kudos on the gas tank idea.

[Anglia105E]

16 minutes ago, LennyB said:

David I just love the way this looks. And kudos on the gas tank idea.

Pleased to hear that you like this one Len . . . As regards the gas tank, there has been a slight change of plan, which is detailed in my next post . . .

David

[Anglia105E]

5 hours ago, David G. said:

Good progress on this David!

Making a fuel tank seems like a fun idea, something I would probably do too.

It must be a "David" thing.  

David G.

You and I seem to have a similar approach when it comes to scratch building ideas . . . See my next post for details of a slight change of plan . . .

David W.

[Anglia105E]

On 11/21/2024 at 4:27 AM, Kenmojr said:

Interesting build. I always wondered what these ICM kits were like.

Very interesting build Ken . . . These ICM kits are really good in my opinion, as indeed are the Miniart kits, also from Ukraine . . .

David

[Anglia105E]

There has been a slight change of plan with the gas tank idea . . . I did go to all the trouble of scratch building the tank from a 35 mm length of solder container, which came out very nicely, only to find that the tank was too large for the car. The height of the tank was such that the seat could not fit onto the seat support panel . . . So, I got my thinking cap on, and came up with a better idea . . . Using a glue stick from my hot glue gun, I cut a 30 mm length of glue stick and painted this with Humbrol Aluminium enamel. Then I cut off a thin layer from one end of a piece of styrene sprue to make the filler cap for the gas tank.

The result is far better, and most importantly, the seat rests on the seat support and above the tank as it should. I am happy with the gas tank and it looks right.

Moving on to the three foot pedals, these have been mounted successfully . . . A piece of thin balsa wood was super glued in place on the back surface of the three slots, and the stalks of the three pedals were then super glued into recessed indentations on the balsa wood. I had seen a YouTube video where the model builder explained how the ICM instructions tell you to put the pedal stalks through the three slots and glue them to . . . what? Actually, there is nothing to glue the parts to at all, just empty space . . . My balsa wood idea seems to have worked well.

David

[David G.]

The fuel tank is as neat as neat can be, simple and tidy yet effective.

That is an odd thing about the directions for the pedals but I've occasionally seen strange omissions and errors in kit directions. I've always chalked it up to changes made late in the kit's development cycle.

In any case, a good solution to a minor issue.

David G.

[LennyB]

Nice recovery on the gas tank, I hate when you get so far with something and then have to back track and start again.

Didn’t you know that Modet T’s had magical floating pedals? I guess IMC short changed you on the pixie dust🧚‍♀️

[Anglia105E]

1 hour ago, David G. said:

The fuel tank is as neat as neat can be, simple and tidy yet effective.

That is an odd thing about the directions for the pedals but I've occasionally seen strange omissions and errors in kit directions. I've always chalked it up to changes made late in the kit's development cycle.

In any case, a good solution to a minor issue.

David G.

Funny thing is David, the glue stick idea for the fuel tank came to me immediately following the failure of the solder container material . . .

It always surprises me when ICM get something wrong, and usually such a basic error, when 99% of their instructions are spot on. Usually it is something so minor, such as the kit parts numbering, or perhaps left or right shown the wrong way round, but nothing to worry about unduly . . .

David W.

[Anglia105E]

1 hour ago, LennyB said:

Nice recovery on the gas tank, I hate when you get so far with something and then have to back track and start again.

Didn’t you know that Modet T’s had magical floating pedals? I guess IMC short changed you on the pixie dust🧚‍♀️

The mildly irritating aspect of it was that my first attempt at the gas tank turned out really well, and then I realised I hadn't checked the height of the tank correctly . . . My carelessness !

Floating pedals . . . Now there's a thing . . .

David

[Anglia105E]

I don't usually post a photo of myself working inside the loft, but here is one that shows me having a coffee and a biscuit, while the outside temperatures are sub-zero . . . The foot pedals board is glued in place, and the upper body sides at the front edges are not the best fit just yet . . .

Now then gents . . . A major issue has surfaced, which has caught me out. The driver figure was purchased as one of two American Motorists by ICM in 1:24 scale . . . These figures are intended for the Touring version of the Model T Ford, but quite reasonably I thought, these should fit the Roadster version also . . . The driver figure does not fit into the driving seat of the car, and he appears too large. This is not just a small discrepancy, as the driver is 10 mm higher than the seat base and his left hand that should rest on the body side top edge, is also 10 mm too high. With his feet on the floor of the driver's compartment, there is no way that I can shorten the figure or modify the car . . .

As you can observe from the following series of photos, the box art shows the position of the driver, and how this relates to the position of the driver figure in the model car . . . I have made a point of checking the precise dimensions of the real Model T Ford, and they confirm that the Touring version has the same dimensions as the Roadster version, for width, height and length, apart from the Touring version being one foot longer overall . . .

I cannot understand why the driver figure by ICM does not even come close to fitting into the driver's seating position, and I am disappointed.

David

 

[BK9300]

Hard to tell from your photos for sure, but driver's left leg rests lower than his right leg.  Not sure how you might adjust the left leg higher, but that might make up a lot of the 10mm - might need to bend the ankles a bit too, to bring his backside forward a bit!

[Anglia105E]

1 hour ago, BK9300 said:

Hard to tell from your photos for sure, but driver's left leg rests lower than his right leg.  Not sure how you might adjust the left leg higher, but that might make up a lot of the 10mm - might need to bend the ankles a bit too, to bring his backside forward a bit!

Certainly I will have a look at that possibility, Brian . . . I am open to any helpful suggestions regarding this problem.

Almost anything is worth a try at this stage !

This driver is going to have some manipulation ( gently ) . . .

David

[David G.]

I agree with Brian on this one David. The left leg does seem to be the cause of at least some of the conflict. I would consider amputation of the left leg at the hip while leaving the coat as intact as possible. Doing that should reveal any changes that may need to be made regarding the right leg. 

Adjusting and reattaching everything will be a bother, to say the least. The good news is that once the figure is seated in place, most of the affected areas won't be readily seen.  

Or... you could remove both legs and just glue his bum directly to the seat and give him a lap blanket!  

May luck and skill be on your side!

Nice photo of you at the bench by the way.

David G.

[Anglia105E]

The windshield frame has been glued to the top edge of the firewall, but in doing so, the lower glass pane became unglued . . . Having refitted the lower screen, using Crystal Clear glue the assembly was put to one side to set overnight.

With the windshield in place, this looks more like a car now . . . Then I test fitted the canvas top and frame, which has enhanced the look of the car even further. One of the engineers is checking the carbide generator, while a second engineer is supervising . . .

I need to give the driver figure some thought, and along with some helpful suggestions by fellow MCM members I should be able to come up with some sort of idea . . . One involves using a hair dryer to heat up the area of the figure that I want to bend, and another idea involves cutting away part of the lower section of the figure. Maybe if I sleep on it, and take a fresh look tomorrow . . .

David

[BK9300]

Fine looking mockup!  Good luck with ideas tomorrow.

[Anglia105E]

8 hours ago, BK9300 said:

Fine looking mockup!  Good luck with ideas tomorrow.

Cheers, Brian . . . Fingers crossed !

David

[David G.]

Nice photos, it looks like you're planning a diorama.

David G.

[Anglia105E]

52 minutes ago, David G. said:

Nice photos, it looks like you're planning a diorama.

David G.

Yes David, there will be a kind of diorama setting for the photography and the videos later, which will feature a background A3 print in B&W of the Highland Park Plant and also a Franklin Mint diecast 1927 Rolls-Royce Phantom I ( Fred Astaire ) . . . The Model T Ford will be rolling, hopefully ( fishing line ).

David W.

[Csaba aka felhasznaaloo]

Very nice progress David, makes me want to build this thing. 

About the driver figure not fitting. I only built 1 model that came with a figure, and what I noticed was the seat cushion AND the driver's /rider's butt BOTH need to be in a " flattened state" to have correct geometry there.

In my case only the figure's bottom was flattened, not the seat (so the model - a motorbike - can be displayed without the rider.) In your case, similarly, the seat is not "pushed down" by the driver's weight, so to compensate, I would say at least half the figures thigh's underside has to be cut away. And the legs shortened, as it seems from your photos. The figure seems a little out of scale to me, but not sure.

Keep it up,

Csaba

[Anglia105E]

3 hours ago, Csaba aka felhasznaaloo said:

Very nice progress David, makes me want to build this thing. 

About the driver figure not fitting. I only built 1 model that came with a figure, and what I noticed was the seat cushion AND the driver's /rider's butt BOTH need to be in a " flattened state" to have correct geometry there.

In my case only the figure's bottom was flattened, not the seat (so the model - a motorbike - can be displayed without the rider.) In your case, similarly, the seat is not "pushed down" by the driver's weight, so to compensate, I would say at least half the figures thigh's underside has to be cut away. And the legs shortened, as it seems from your photos. The figure seems a little out of scale to me, but not sure.

Keep it up,

Csaba

Thanks a lot Csaba . . . I think you are correct in saying that some of the material needs to be removed, to simulate the weight of the driver sitting on the seat cushion . . . Also, the legs will have to be shortened, as they are already too long, even before any cutting. My feeling is that the figure is probably out of scale, but this would be most unusual for a company like ICM, who nearly always get things absolutely 100% right . . .

David

[Bainford]

Nice work on this one, David. I have been curious about these ICM Model T kits. I am quite enjoying your build. I think I need one of these.