Prepping 3D Print Body

[DoctorLarry]

I bought a 3D print 69 Skylark from someone on EBAY (not Robert Burns, to be clear).  It has all sorts of ripples in the body. My question is is this a common thing? Second, do I just try to sand them out?  Third, how do you prep one of these for paint?  Any experience would be appreciated. Thanks!

[stitchdup]

the ripples are the layer lines from the print process. i tend to sand them back a little and do a couple of rounds of sanding and filler primer. usually for a resin print 3 rounds of filler primer is enough but some take more. once you are happy with how it looks in filler primer you can just paint it as you would any other kit. make sure to wear a mask,the dust is nasty stuff

[64SS350]

I like to sand first. The amount of sanding depends on the body contours, not to take away from the body lines or shape too much from what it should be or leave too much as it would add to the original contours. Then I use thin CA as a filler, and resand, finishing with primer and sanding if needed. 

Also, I have found a few areas where the print was thin and/or stressed which caused cracking. So the CA helps add a strengthening layer for that situation as well as repair.

Enjoy the process!

[stitchdup]

3 minutes ago, 64SS350 said:

 

Also, I have found a few areas where the print was thin and/or stressed which caused cracking. So the CA helps add a strengthening layer for that situation as well as repair.

Enjoy the process!

why not just use more resin? get a 5 buck uv light for doing nails and simply brush resin over the cracks, shine the light and its job done.

[64SS350]

12 minutes ago, stitchdup said:

why not just use more resin? get a 5 buck uv light for doing nails and simply brush resin over the cracks, shine the light and its job done.

Well, I'll keep that in mind, but he asked for methods we use, and that's what I use. You have to sand either way.

[yh70]

a lot of the ripples can be taken out with #0000 steel wool . then the bigger ones with 4-600 grit sand paper followed up with the steel wool. the big nasty ones lol like i got on my 5500 chevy truck its body filler time. no way around it. i do care how much  filler primer you spray they still gonna be their..the last 3D truck i just finished was a Ford 350 Super Duty with very little prep work. so get ready to do body work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018SCH2W?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

[DoctorLarry]

I started sanding with 220 dry and will follow up with 400 wet. Then tape off the detail stuff and hit it with Dupli-Color Filler primer and see how it turns out. The top had really deep lines ii it as well as the hood.

[yh70]

i'm in the process of building a 3D Chevy 5500 service truck with crane , air compressor & Miller Welder on it. hrs of sanding even after i took the #0000 steel wool to it. on the second day of sanding this showed up (takes about 2 weeks to get) my sanding blocks from AliExpress..what a life saver.. if you dont have a set get you one they well worth the money. also ck out all their hobby tools. everything i have ordered has been top quality. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256807604374230.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.23.2f2c1802aa6hY4

[stitchdup]

why not just start with filler primer and save your self some sanding. even the finest layer height is keyed enough for primer and the first coat of filler primer just undoes your sanding anyway. but  would suggest using proline high build primer if you can get it. it works much faster than the other brands and is safe with tamiya and auto acrylics