Zero Paints Primer - what am I doing wrong?

[YellowHound]

I'm coming back to modelling after a long gap.

I have a number of car kits I am starting work on. I've bought a selection of Zero and Proscale colours that suit what I want to do, and decided to use Zero primer. 

But I'm finding little to no adhesion to the plastic. If I try to sand it, it peels off. Non-detail areas sanded prior to primer application.

Sprayed using a Harder & Steenbeck airbrush, 0.45mm needle at 20psi. Room temp about 19deg C.

Models surfaces washed in mildly soapy water and dried thoroughly before paint.

Primer built up in thin layers and left to dry for 5min between coats.

Is it an application/use issue? I'm struggling to believe that it's a bad primer.

Should I have left it longer between coats?

[YellowHound]

I've dropped a line to Zero to see if they can advise but I just can't use anymore of this primer.

I've just been masking some parts to overspray a different colour and the paint is peeling off with the Tamiya masking tape.

Non-detail areas can be sanded to give them a key but I can't sand detail areas.

I don't understand what I'm doing wrong but am now looking for an alternative airbrush ready primer.....

[Bainford]

I may be quite wrong, but I am under the impression that Zero paints are a lacquer, and a somewhat hot one at that. Is that true? If so, all the more strange that it doesn't  'bite' the plastic. Your application process seems good.

[johnyrotten]

Try a comet wash before the soapy water, it'll add a bit of "tooth" to the surface,  not enough to wipe out detail unless you go crazy, and if there's any mold release ect on the parts, gives you a better shot at removing it. Belt and suspenders, basically. Also,  use cheap old hardware store primer( touch and tone) and have no issues with primer/paint not sticking.

Edited November 6, 2024 by johnyrotten

[Matt Bacon]

There are a number of threads on Britmodeller about this. Bottom line is that the Zero primers just aren’t very good. Tamiya Fine Surface Primer or Stynylrez work fine, and in a couple of dozen builds using Zero colour coats and clear coats over them, I’ve never had any adhesion/masking issues.

Bin the Zero Primer and buy a can or two of Tamiya primer in grey and white…

best,

M.

[Funkychiken]

How does it look when you apply?

If its dusty, it could be that you are shooting from too far away, it could be that you need to add some lacquer thinner,  i know its pre mixed, but ive had it too thick in the past.

And as mentioned above,  scuff up the surface with scotchbrite or scourer.

[YellowHound]

Thanks all for your thoughts.

I've given up on the Zero Primer. I didn't get a satisfactory/helpful response from Zero themselves.

Got some Mr Surfacer 1500 and thinner incoming. This I believe is a lacquer primer, so a different product entirely.

Got to try to strip most of what Ive done so far with the Zero primer. I have been masking parts painted with the Zero primer and top coat and finding that the masking tape just pulls it all off.

[johnyrotten]

8 hours ago, YellowHound said:

Thanks all for your thoughts.

I've given up on the Zero Primer. I didn't get a satisfactory/helpful response from Zero themselves.

Got some Mr Surfacer 1500 and thinner incoming. This I believe is a lacquer primer, so a different product entirely.

Got to try to strip most of what Ive done so far with the Zero primer. I have been masking parts painted with the Zero primer and top coat and finding that the masking tape just pulls it all off.

Sometimes that's your best bet, I'm back into the hobby less than 6 months,  and I've learned a ton. Especially here. With all the possibilities of chemistry not playing well together,  I seek out as much as I can. Good luck with your paint job. ?

[davewolves]

To be honest i tried the primers and did not like them at all, the paint range seems fine to me no issues like other people have reported.
I switched completely to Mr Hobby's Mr Finisher 1500 thinned with Mr Levelling thinner, which I mix around 50/50 with a 0.3 or 0.5 airbrush. I always sand the bodies with 1000 grit sandpaper first, followed by a wash with dish soap and leaving overnight to dry. Then, I give them a quick once-over with some thinners to remove any grease or fingerprints.
Spray booth wetted with some paper towel on the bottom also damped to catch any dust even a little water misted over the surrounding areas including myself, I normally lay 3-4 layers of undercoat (base coat?) and leave for 24 hours to cure, Mr Surfacer is super smooth and barely needs any sanding if i do i use very fine grade sanding sheets somewhere between 2000-3000 grit.
TBH on a break from building at the moment due to personal issues, when i return and get back to my youtube channel i will be trying some other primers from the likes of Ultimate modelling products, Pro Acryl. Ammo one shot etc etc.

[Chris V]

I've experienced the exact same peeling-issues with both Zero Paints' "regular" and "new improved" primer, no matter how long and well I shake the bottles to ensure proper mixing. Thus I've opted to use different primers. However you should be aware, that Zero Paints basecoat colors are extremely "hot" and their solvents can penetrate most primers causing bodywork to "ghost" severely if applied too heavily.  I recommend testing their compatibility with different primers on a scrap body.

Edit: I have yet to try their 2K primer. It might not have the same poor sanding properties as the 1K versions. 

On a side note, their basecoat colors also have a tendency to clog and dull abrasive paper, even when wet sanding. 

Edited April 7 by Chris V

[YellowHound]

I've settled on the Mr Surfacer 1500, thinned 60:40.

Brilliant stuff! I have had no issues using this with Zero paints.

[bobss396]

I use either Mr. Surfacer or Duplicolor primers. Tamiya too, I like their white.

I use everything, right out of the can. I do warm it up for final primering.

I have a dehydrator I use when I want to move projects faster. Otherwise I go with an "overnight" rule with anything I prime 

[Bugatti Fan]

I don't think that this has been mentioned yet as a first 'to do'. Even before priming, regardless of the primer to be used I always key the surface with a fine grade wet n dry abrasive paper used wet to give a key to the actual plastic, white metal or die cast of the kit. Washing off the residue with detergent also gets rid of any mould release agents that may be present on the surface.

I have never used Zero or Tamiya primers so cannot comment on either. My tendency is to use automotive acrylic primers straight from an aerosol and have not had any bother with these on my models. As a UK modeller I use Halfords own brand primers, white, grey or red oxide, and have used their matt black as a primer too.

Edited April 10 by Bugatti Fan

[Chris V]

1 hour ago, Bugatti Fan said:

I don't think that this has been mentioned yet as a first 'to do'. Even before priming, regardless of the primer to be used I always key the surface with a fine grade wet n dry abrasive paper used wet to give a key to the actual plastic, white metal or die cast of the kit. Washing off the residue with detergent also gets rid of any mould release agents that may be present on the surface.

Unfortunately the usual (mandatory) preparation steps you mention do not prevent the Zero Paints primers' tendency to peel when (wet)sanded.  

[Matt Bacon]

On 4/7/2025 at 6:02 PM, Chris V said:

On a side note, their basecoat colors also have a tendency to clog and dull abrasive paper, even when wet sanding. 

You shouldn’t sand the base colour coat, unless you’re knocking off a small speck of crud or fibre. It’s meant to lay down slightly rough (like 400 grit sandpaper). Repeated light coats are the way to go… if the base colour ever looks wet on the model you’ve laid it on too heavy. 
 I use both Tamiya Fine Surface primer and Stynylrez under Zero Paints with no issues.

best,

M.

[Chris V]

1 minute ago, Matt Bacon said:

You shouldn’t sand the base colour coat, unless you’re knocking off a small speck of crud or fibre. It’s meant to lay down slightly rough (like 400 grit sandpaper). Repeated light coats are the way to go… if the base colour ever looks wet on the model you’ve laid it on too heavy. 
 I use both Tamiya Fine Surface primer and Stynylrez under Zero Paints with no issues.

best,

M.

I was actually concerned that the metallics/pearls would look uneven under clearcoat. I never lay the Zero Paints basecoats on "wet" as, I've experienced the solvents causing both 2K putties (Milliput) to shrink significantly, and perfectly finished seams, removed emblems and molding inlet stubs to ghost like crazy, - even though they had been "washed" with thin liquid cement and sanded to a smooth finish after several weeks of drying time.     

[Matt Bacon]

I understand the concern, but I’ve used the Zero system without sanding on dozens of models over the last two decades without any issues no matter what the colour or finish. In my experience, the biggest challenge is with two (or in one case three: solid base colour, tinted metallic, and transparent topcoat) layer basecoats: getting each layer evenly dense across multiple part assemblies. For example when I’m  painting doors, engine cover, opening clips and pop up lights separately before final assembly. But I’ve always found the Zero system just works when I do exactly what the instructions say. It’s not for everyone, because of the noxious chemicals, extensive precautions, and the kit you need to use it safely (I wouldn’t be using it if my modelling den was in the house, for example…) But for modern cars and colour matched finishes, it’s hard to beat… especially if you’re in the UK and the alternatives come from overseas with the additional shipping cost and difficulty that brings.

best,

M.