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Posted

Well i wish i could say its third time lucky on the engine but this is the 5th i've assembled today. both lincolns and the ford predator were too tall, the merlin ls7 hit the fenders but i had a stash of engines i printed ages ago that included some of the blackbox 572s. i went for the crossram induction simply because i think it looks cool and a little more filling in the bay but i'll be using electrical connectors instead of the printed ram pipes. I've included pics to show the frenzel and why it wont workDSC02231.JPGDSC02232.JPGDSC02233.JPGDSC02234.JPGDSC02235.JPGDSC02236.JPGDSC02237.JPGDSC02238.JPG

 I'm mostly treating the convertible as practise for the coupe, and will be brush painting it all as i find weathering and aging easier by brush.

  • Like 1
Posted
7 minutes ago, David G. said:

Nice go on the axles!

For the intake, maybe a hood cut is in order?

David G.

i thought about it but it would spoil the lines. instead i'll use a different non supercharged version of the v12 in the coupe so it fits under the hood. this one now has a blackbox 572 in it

Posted

I didn't make it to paint today as i still needed to make a firewall (done) and panel the rear of the interior. I also used some marine electrical connectors for the ram pipes and started detailing the engine. i still need to mod the front wheel backs to tuck them in a little more as they are just a smidgen too wide just now. the firewall will tuck up once the chassis is glued onDSC02239.JPGDSC02240.JPGDSC02241.JPG/

  • Like 2
Posted

well i got her ready for some colour. i did a tamiya semi gloss black base which i let dry, then i started the body prep by hiting it with some 240 sanding sticks. doing this acted as guide coat for the next layer which is citadel abadon black which again got sanded but with an old 600 sponge this time. next was various citadel browns and ak rusts dry brushed on, going against the grain of the print. this fills the grain fairly fast, and was again flatted with the 600. i did this twice using one brush that was left dirty each time. i might give it one last sand and dry brushing before the colour goes on. I also started detailing the seat by supergluing fluff on the common worn areas. i have an idea for how to make it look duct taped up.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Now I see what you mean about the intake setup Les. That's a much better option than cutting the hood. 

The way you layered the colors on the body it almost looks like it was carved from a block of wood.

It seems like you're going for a patinaed barn-find sleeper.

Cool!

David G.

  • Like 1
Posted

well i overdid the drybrushing and had to start painting over but hopefully the step back has hopefully led to an overal improvement. i sanded the body parts with 220 after stripping then used proline high build primer from a turbo (it was all i could get) can! start to finish the primer took less than 2 seconds and only took that long cos i had to turn the body, lol. i've also added an art deco motif to the rear interior panel and may add some chrome trim detail. i'm still going for patina, just not as rusty

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  • Like 2
Posted

i've been working on the fenders for a few hours and the line seems to be a little better now. its not perfect and prob not even close to stock but it looks better than the double line that was there before. i've also tried to make the outer fenders more round and will spend more time on both of these on the coupe as its going black. ad i'm going for an art deco pale white for the colour. i did a quick colour test on the door and i think it will work, and also make the weathering work better being a lighter colour. I might also have worked out how to get the frenzel under the hood which honestly has me more excited as its a cool looking engine imo.


 

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  • Like 1
Posted

i gotta say i'm liking these turbocans of primer, ready to sand or paint over in 15 mins which is really fastfor the high build. i normally leave primer at least 12 hours before risking paint. i've found my prints primer for sure. anyway, back to the paint. i randomy dusted some red primer and various tamiya browns/reds over the body parts. next a gave it a very light patchy primer coat followed by a patchy pale white top coat. the white actually looks better in the pics so sometimes the camera does lie, lol

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  • Like 3
Posted
1 minute ago, dino246gt said:

Looking great!

Time to change your paint booth filter!

(someone had to say it, LOL)

yeah, its pretty bad. thats the downside to the turbo cans, it was a fresh filter when i started primer and its only 3 coats, lol.

  • Like 1
Posted

well i built up the weathering again, this time using tamya powders and crayons along with some citadel washes. the comvertible is pretty much finished apart from the glass bits. i need to order some clear resin for those as the only quote i got was for over a hundred quid for 4 24 scale lenses so i'll just get a bottle myself. this means no more work on it til mid jan but its mostly togeter. the interior needs dirtied up and the seat painted along with some other parts like the running boards but they will be last as its my grip points if i need extra hands, lol.

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Posted

so with that it was onto the coupe. all along my intent was to paint it black but i might change my mind and use a nice bmw green/blue colour that should make the lines pop. since i learned some stuff with the roadster the first job was to get those body lines right. at the rear i ran a trip of fairly fine quarter round were i wanted the peaks. i used stopper to fill this and will be giving it a couple more goes as this filler sinks a lot. i would have built it up with resin but i'm out of it just now. for te front fenders i felt they were too square in the side profile and transition to the running boards so to fix this i cut the outer edges from the first coupe and glued them to the ones being used. this gives me a better widt and allows me to get the shape closer.

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