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Posted (edited)

Looking back in the last few years building models, I noticed somewhat of a pattern of my building, which I never gave much of a thought in the past. Basically I always followed two constant lines. The first one going a familiar path and building my usual subjects of hot rods or the occasional sports car. The second is taking on a subject that is somewhat out of my comfort zone and getting obsessive over it. I enjoyed building Niki Lauda's 1:12 Ferrari from Tamiya, but spent more time searching for pictures of the real car and researching the Ferrari 312T than actually building the model. My personal favorite driver of all time is the Canadian Gilles Villeneuve and the 1/20 Fujimi model of the Ferrari he lost his life in was a natural choice for a follow up build. After doing those two cars in vastly different sizes, but attempting similar detail level, I reached some conclusions with mixed feelings. Mainly that building a Formula 1 car in high detail besides, skill, time, patience, tools also costs a lot of money and there is no way around it. There is plenty of aftermarket companies out there making kit specific detail sets just like many aftermarket generic bits and pieces. Nobody wants to spend four digit amounts on MFH kits but when all is set and done, if you want super-detailed results it will cost you the same whether you buy a MFH kit with everything in it or get a good deal on Tamiya 1/20 model and add everything to i . My most recent crazy obsessive project was the Pagani Huayra from Aoshima, which had photo etched parts I added surpassing the price of the kit with the amount of decals on it doubling that cost. I followed by the very first Mustangs I've ever built in two of the three colors I hate to work with the most. Those builds were also my very first experience with 3D printed parts. So it was time for something new I've never tried.

    Every year right around my birthday there is the only model car show/contest that I know of in Tennessee. The IPMS Middle Tennessee Model-Con in Murfreesboro. Altho the show this year was...well, let's just say it left a ton to be desired and raised quite few eyebrows. And that is me being as PC as I can. Not for lack of some great models or attendees either. But anyway, that's not the subject of this post. The vendors presence, altho having some familiar faces and some truly great people was not what I would call great. But if you had few bucks burning a hole in your pocket, one could manage to blow them. This being 4 days before my birthday and having my wife with me created an opportunity both from bargaining and budgeting stand point, if you know what I mean. I met a great gentleman, who was obviously selling kits from his personal stash no longer needed. Mostly Japanese kits and we were able not only to enjoy some great conversation, but also strike some deals, graciously "sponsored" by my wife. That's when I saw a red plastic box with a familiar yellow logo with a horsey under it's clear lid. When I asked what was it, I was told it is one of those projects that would make me pull my hairs, question my sanity and make me want to quit the hobby. Now he really had my attention.

      It is a fully detailed kit of the Ferrari 126 C2, comprising of about 220 (yes two hundred and twenty) parts made from white metal, aluminum and photo etch on various metals. All in 1:43rd scale. That means that the entire wheel/tire assembly of seven pieces (yes each wheel is 6 pieces of aluminum and photoetch) is about the size of a Hot Rod headlight. But - challenge accepted!

Some of these parts can be glued, while others I believe would have to be soldered. Either way, I'm in. And I have the intention to detail this thingy as much as I can. It will be fully wired and plumbed, as long as I survive it without losing my mind. So I invite everyone to join me on my journey down Crazy Lane. I have never built one of these kits, so any advise, pointers, tricks or critiques are greatly appreciated. I already know that there are some major parts missing, so on top of everything, there will be some creativity and scratchbuilding involved, but so far I have faith that I would be able to produce a decent model of one of my all time favorite F1 cars. 

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Edited by mrm
  • Like 2
Posted

Good luck. I'll be following as I'm about 3/4 finished on a Tameo Penske PC17 and a BBR Ferrari 333SP which have both stalled, so hopefully watching your journey will get me going again.

Posted
51 minutes ago, bytownshaker said:

Good luck. I'll be following as I'm about 3/4 finished on a Tameo Penske PC17 and a BBR Ferrari 333SP which have both stalled, so hopefully watching your journey will get me going again.

I am missing some major components. For example entire one half of the induction exhaust system of the engine. That is one intake, one turbo, one intercooler, one exhaust and all the turbos-to intercoolers plumbing. Also missing is the transmission oil cooler and some other details, like parts for rear shocks, both mirrors and the fluids reservoirs in the nose. 

   If you have experience with these kits, what is the best way to attach parts together? I mean like the thick brass etched parts to the white metal monocoque for example. We are not talking tiny brass parts going into a hole in the white metal part, but a rather large brass plate going flat on a large white metal surface. I'm afraid that if I heat the brass enough to bond it will melt the white metal completely. There are few parts that are getting attached brass to brass, which totally make sense to be soldered, but the white metal kinda freaks me out. 

Posted

I used Bob Smith Industries Insta Cure and their epoxy to attach the photo etch to the white metal body. The bond was strong enough for handling and  prepping the body etc. Hope that helps.

Posted

Definitely one to follow Michael. Gilles was also my favorite driver and I was lucky to be on site when he won his first race in Montreal (1978). The 126 C2 is a beautiful race car and taking this on at 1/43 scale will be challenging for sure. 

Posted
9 hours ago, bytownshaker said:

I used Bob Smith Industries Insta Cure and their epoxy to attach the photo etch to the white metal body. The bond was strong enough for handling and  prepping the body etc. Hope that helps.

Thank you.I figured CA or Epoxy would be the go to glues. I was wondering if there were benefits to soldering stuff and any tips on that. I'll probably stick to glueing things together. I would only assume that soldering brass and steel to white metal and each other in this small of a scale would require different fluxes, different solders and different temperatures. And reinventing my hobby and going down the rabbit whole of researching all sorts of materials and tools and then learning how to use them is not something I had in mind when I thought "challenge accepted" with this kit. Unless of course I have no choice. 

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Definitely one to follow Michael. Gilles was also my favorite driver and I was lucky to be on site when he won his first race in Montreal (1978). The 126 C2 is a beautiful race car and taking this on at 1/43 scale will be challenging for sure. 

Thank you Pierre. Gilles was something else. Perhaps the last of the true gentlemen-drivers. In contrast I can't stand his son. 

This model is meant to be built as it raced at Germany after Gilles' death and Pironi's accident, when Andretti and Tambay filled in for them to finish the season. However the kit's decals have options for Imola and Long Beach and then an additional little piece for the German GP, where pretty much the only difference are the names. The kit I have to work with is missing the front wing. But then Villeneuve raced at Iola without front wing. And it was his last race which he dominated until his teammate stabbed him in the back, which ultimately may have led to his death. Also from what I understand the only surviving all original 126 C2 is chassis 061, which this kit actually represents, which is also the car Gilles used at Imola. I am in the process researching what I am actually going to model right now, which sometimes is harder than building the model. There are million pictures of 126 C2s both from the races in period and of cars in our days. Figuring out which is what and from what race is the real challenge, as there are quite few differences between them. Most likely tho, I'm going with Villeneuve's Imola race. 

Edited by mrm
  • Like 1
Posted

Great project of a great car driven by a great driver. All the best for your build.

I followed Gilles career very closely and was devastated when he was killed. I saw him race Formula Atlantic a number of times at races I attended. After he had won the preceding three F-1 races, I saw him race at the 1979 Spanish GP at which he finished out of the points in 7th after which he walked right by me as I waited for the bus back into Madrid. I was able to wish him better luck at Monaco which did not help as he retired from that race. I believe he would have won the World Championship for his first time in 1982 if not for that tragic and unfortunate accident. Canada for such a small country population wise has produced many great racing car drivers of which many have been killed or seriously injured before reaching their true potential.

Posted

Cant wait to see how you make out Mike..

I started the 1:20 Fujimi 126 C2 awhile ago, with ALL the p/e and after market parts I could find ...

WhooEee there goes the budget ...and I got the engine done and now it sits....

Moving to the Tamiya 1:12 312T for a break...

Looking forward to your next update!

Cheers

Posted

 Michael...I am rooting for you on this one.  1/43 is tiny.  I have done a few of them for friends and a couple for myself. Needless to say ,I don't have very many of them in my  collection and avoid  them, preferring the larger scales which are much easier on these ancient eyes.  The fact you are missing pieces makes this even more of a challenge.  So the very best of luck to you on this one. I got to see Gilles race both here in the states and in Canada. He was spectacular and even from where I was standing it was obvious there was no other driver like him.  This will be a fitting tribute. 

Posted

Soldering - i’m about to teach myself how to lo-temp solder wh metal - try to source some very lo temp solder - i got mine fr the UK - and you should try to get a digital temp solder iron … i got a Meri kit somewhere above my w bench …

Posted

The more research I do on this thing the more differences between the cars I see. So, my build seems to be going towards the chassis 061 (the last surviving original 126C2) as raced by Mario Andretti at Monza. The body I got is correct to 061 and incorrect to Gille's car at Imola. Also the front suspension is considerably different on that car (from Monza). I'll leave a special spot for Gilles. Maybe a MFH kit...

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