Tamiya TS sprays - can they be used on metal (with Tamiya primer first)?

[bh1701]

Can you use Tamiya TS sprays on metal? The TS cans say "For Plastics", but their Fine Surface Primers say "For Plastic & Metal".

If I prime the metal with their primer first, can the regular TS spray be used after that successfully?

Thanks,

Bart

[stitchdup]

while it should work, you might need to prime a part and once its dry do a tape test first. if it doesn't stick you can try acrylic auto primers as i've used them with tamiya sprays. the auto primer would need a couple extra days to gas out or the paint might get a slightly wrinkled appearance

[LennyB]

It's always best to prime metal first so I would say you should be able to use their paint after the prime.

[peteski]

Most paints work on most surfaces. I think what Tamiya tried to convey was that the TS paints are *SAFE* for plastics since many paints are "hot" and will craze bare polystyrene. 

[Bainford]

Tamiya primer should work well on metal. When I paint metal, I use a Duplicolor primer designed for automotive work, since it is engineered specifically for metal. Whichever one you use, the key to success is surface preparation, perhaps even more so than plastic. Some sort of abrasive cleaning of the surface (fine sanding, etc) to remove oxidation & contaminants and provide some tooth, and a thorough cleaning with a solvent that will not leave residue (alcohol or lacquer thinner, as appropriate).

[slusher]

It will work but I would primer a good couple coats first!

[drodg]

I have painted 1:43 metal kits with Tamiya TS paints and they are great after a primer.   

[Dave G.]

Depends on the metal and how you treat it. What type of metal are you painting ?

[espo]

You might want to consider using an automotive self-etching type of primer as a base. Then use the Tamiya primer for sanding and a good smooth surface for the color coats. 

[Matt Bacon]

Tamiya Fine Surface Primers say "for plastic and metal" on the can, and I've never had any issues using them over white metal, brass or plastic, and following up with any of the TS spray color coats.

Note that the Tamiya primers do not need sanding. Make sure your surface is well prepped and clean, spray with the primer, and your TS paints will lay down super smooth and appropriately glossy over the top.

This:

and this:

are both TS spray colors straight out of the can over Fine Surface Primer (grey and pink) on white metal kits. The paint has not been sanded or polished at all... that's just as it comes out of the can.

best,

M.

Edited January 3 by Matt Bacon

[bh1701]

3 hours ago, Dave G. said:

Depends on the metal and how you treat it. What type of metal are you painting ?

It is a 1/18 DieCast model ( Matchbox Jeep Liberty). I removed the existing paint using an Aviation Paint Stripper.

Bart

[1972coronet]

I would also recommend that you lay a self-etching primer over the bare metal. 

I'm fairly confident that the Tamiya primers are safe for white metal ; not sure about brass nor other  "soft" metals.

I'm sure that @Ace-Garageguy will chime in with an educated -and well-composed - answer.

[dmthamade]

I've used the Tamiya primer/color spray bomb combo on photoetch, brass, aluminum, white metal landing gear and steel detail pieces. Never had any problem with it not sticking or cracking or any other problem. I would treat like any other part, clean and dry, then paint as usual. I believe you are good to go.

Don

[Dave G.]

12 hours ago, bh1701 said:

It is a 1/18 DieCast model ( Matchbox Jeep Liberty). I removed the existing paint using an Aviation Paint Stripper.

Bart

Most of us may not even realize that Tamiya has a clear base for metal, called Metal Primer. That said, the old school method of painting diecast, pot metal, white metal etc. Was to mix a 50-50 solution of white vinegar and water, do a final wash of the metal with that, and rinse with plain water. This rid the metal of oxidation before priming, and offers mild etching. Over that I've used most lacquer primers with success. Larger areas though, it was wise to use Zink based primers and now today self etch primers. I think you will find that the Tamiya Metal primer is self etching. obviously, while other paints and methods have claims of success, this is how Tamiya approaches the matter. Me, I'm still old school and we have plenty of white vinegar in the house. I'd give it the wash of that before whatever paint went on.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Vinegar etching goes back as far as the 1930s for die-cast and brass model train stuff, probably farther. It still works fine for diecast, brass, aluminum, and others.

These days I prefer rattlecan self-etching primers made for automobile spot repairs, available in most chain auto-parts stores and many big-box emporiums. Far as I can tell, it enhances adhesion on every kind of metal you're likely to encounter as a modeler.

I usually clean metal with lacquer thinner before priming.

Automotive self-etching rattlecan primer is compatible with any topcoat...at least so far in my experience.

If you need to correct surface imperfections on metal parts, automotive rattlecan "sanding" or "high build" primers work well over metal coated with self-etching primer, as that's what they're designed for.

Edited January 4 by Ace-Garageguy
CLARITY

[bh1701]

Thanks everyone for all of the suggestions and tips! I think I have enough ideas to feel comfortable to tackle the painting of my die-cast model now!

Bart

[peteski]

9 hours ago, Dave G. said:

Most of us may not even realize that Tamiya has a clear base for metal, called Metal Primer. That said, the old school method of painting diecast, pot metal, white metal etc. Was to mix a 50-50 solution of white vinegar and water, do a final wash of the metal with that, and rinse with plain water. This rid the metal of oxidation before priming, and offers mild etching.

Yes, that clear-coat-like Tamiya metal primer.  I have it and I used it, but I'm still l leery about it.  Why clear? Primer is supposed to provide a smooth and even color base for the top coat.  It doesn't dry flat. Clear also doesn't hide any imperfections or difference in colors between dissimilar  metals (like brass and solder).  I'm wondering if this is one of those funny Japanese to English translation errors, and it is not a primer at all.  I wish Tamiya provided a better explanation or instructions as to why clear is good as a metal primer.

As for the vinegar etching rinse, I assume Dave is describing household vinegar.  That has a concentration of only 4%. Diluting it 50/50 with water would yield a 2% solution.  You probably have to let the metal item in that solution for a week to get any appreciable etching.  Having said that, I do sometimes etch my brass parts in vinegar, but I use a 25% Vinegar concentrate, and let the parts sit in the solution for few minutes.  Also, like Ace mentioned, they have to be degreased first (acetone works well), or or grease/oil will act as a resist and vinegar will not touch those areas.

[bobss396]

I curb scraped one of my Mustang wheels and decided to fix it, ala DIY.

I took the wheel/tire off the car and started with 320 grit on a DA sander. Then 400 followed by wet sanding with 600. Nice and smooth, 95% of the scrape was gone.

I used TS gloss black, no primer. I masked off the tire and gave it 2 coats. Going on year 2 with the fix and it looks good.

[dmthamade]

8 hours ago, bobss396 said:

I curb scraped one of my Mustang wheels and decided to fix it, ala DIY.

I took the wheel/tire off the car and started with 320 grit on a DA sander. Then 400 followed by wet sanding with 600. Nice and smooth, 95% of the scrape was gone.

I used TS gloss black, no primer. I masked off the tire and gave it 2 coats. Going on year 2 with the fix and it looks good.

Well this is a reminder!! I've primed and painted car parts with Tamiya spray bombs as well. This was over plastic, aluminum, sheet metal, parts used in the interior, engine bay... parts have all stood the test of time. Wheel center caps, assorted covers, brackets...i used the Tamiya colors due to variety, wasn't just black. Tamiya primers as well.

Don

[1959scudetto]

Tamiya TS red sprayed directly onto a Welly diecast without primer ! I just masked the rear fenders and sprayed Italian red directly onto the silver body: the color is very hard and cannot be scratched with fingernails!

 

[peteski]

1 hour ago, 1959scudetto said:

Tamiya TS red sprayed directly onto a Welly diecast without primer ! I just masked the rear fenders and sprayed Italian red directly onto the silver body: the color is very hard and cannot be scratched with fingernails!

I don't think that is what the question was about.  In your case you sprayed the Tamiya paint over another paint (and the silver paint was likely painted over primer which is over bare metal).

[1959scudetto]

14 hours ago, peteski said:

I don't think that is what the question was about.  In your case you sprayed the Tamiya paint over another paint (and the silver paint was likely painted over primer which is over bare metal).

You maybe right, Peter - on bare metal I would also use primer first.

My next project will be a Alfa 1900 Carrera Panamericana made from a die-cast - has already been stripped to bare metal = ready for priming.