sun cured body filler?

[rattle can man]

Has anyone tried name brand, sunlight cured body filler? I've never heard of it before. I guess it is just similar chemistry to any material that sets with UV light.  A small, local shop that is a clearance/ liquidation type of store has some (likely at or near expiration date). 

[Ace-Garageguy]

I have not personally tried it. It seems to work well according to this video, but this material also appears to need a dedicated intense UV-light source.

Frankly, I really don't see the point. It's nice and smooth and requires no mixing of catalyst, but there are multiple products that are just as smooth and creamy, and with a little practice mix easily in the correct proportions.

ONE potential upside, I suppose, is that because the stuff isn't catalyzed it shouldn't start to go hard unexpectedly in the middle of the application, as  slightly over-catalyzed conventional fillers might.

 

 

[Mark]

The working time could be an advantage in certain situations.  If you already have a Bondic pen (which incorporates a small UV lamp) it should work with this stuff too.  I've got the Bondic pen, so if I saw this stuff on clearance I'd be inclined to buy some just to tinker with.

[rattle can man]

I was just looking at it as an inexpensive option from a store that sells cheap stuff. But I was wondering if it really works since this is in a clearance store and I've never seen it anywhere else. 

[Mark]

I have picked up items at clearance stores that weren't available in my area otherwise.  Like I said, if I had a couple of bucks burning a hole in my pocket, I'd buy one to experiment with.  I have a couple of cans of off-brand "Bondo" type filler bought at one of those stores, that I intend to use in making vacuform molds.

[Rick L]

I would think another advantage is that, once set, there would be minimal or no shrink after sanding and primer.

[Ace-Garageguy]

34 minutes ago, Rick L said:

I would think another advantage is that, once set, there would be minimal or no shrink after sanding and primer.

That's also the case with a quality catalyzed polyester.

[mr moto]

I would think twice before setting a styrene model out in the bright sun. Once I had one get a severely sagging roof from sun coming through a window. A UV lamp of some kind would be a good idea.

[Ace-Garageguy]

34 minutes ago, mr moto said:

I would think twice before setting a styrene model out in the bright sun. Once I had one get a severely sagging roof from sun coming through a window. A UV lamp of some kind would be a good idea.

It's good to be prudent, but kit styrene is usually stable up to just under the temperature of boiling water, call it 200F.

What warps a model sitting near a window is the lensing effect of sunlight striking a transparent material at an angle that somehow focuses its rays on a small area.

First time it happened to me I was about 14, and for some reason left a built model in the convertible-top-well of my parents' car.

It simply never occurred to me that a flexible plastic window could focus the sun's rays like a magnifying glass, but the warped mess I retrieved pretty well proved it.

Car interiors can get up to 160F or more, but that's not usually enough to cause kit styrene to warp unless there's something exerting constant pressure on it while it's hot. There's no question it was focused sunlight that locally heated the plastic of the model to the point it just sagged.

A model in direct sunlight outside should be perfectly fine.

[rattle can man]

I wouldn't worry about the sun warping it. what Bill said is correct.

I probably won't try it, at least what they have on the shelf. The blister packs are yellowed, not clear. That tells me it is old, thus it might not give me a good impression and then I miss out on something good. If I do decide on it, I will use it on some scraps first.