W to cut tach. Gauges small circles? I have some varicose sized gauges from oil,water temps that are very small to small to cut with scissors.

[Hotrodical customs]

im praying someone has suggestions on what could be used

[NOBLNG]

Here are two possibilities. The micromark ones sure aren’t cheap, but the advantage is that you can easily get the guage centered on the punch. The leather punches are cheap but harder to get perfectly aligned over the guage.

Edited March 15 by NOBLNG

[gman]

The toolmaker grade punch set would probably be the best option. If you are a DIY type of person, some aluminum or brass tubing with an appropriate inside diameter could probably be sharpened to make your own punch. It could be used against a soft backing. The main concern is having your punched-out decals get stuck inside the tubing and having to get them out gracefully without damaging them.

[stitchdup]

you could use a leather punch. the one i have has 6 sizes of punch and can be used on plastic too. i find i use it quite often for making fuel caps but theres no reason it wouldn't work on decals. mine cost about 20 bucks from a hobby lobby type shop in the fabric section. its meant for belts but its a great tool for us too

[stavanzer]

3 hours ago, stitchdup said:

you could use a leather punch. the one i have has 6 sizes of punch and can be used on plastic too. i find i use it quite often for making fuel caps but theres no reason it wouldn't work on decals. mine cost about 20 bucks from a hobby lobby type shop in the fabric section. its meant for belts but its a great tool for us too

Great Idea, Les, but be sure to get one that has a Brass anvil not plastic. The last few Leather Punches I've seen are cheap copies, and have a plastic anvil. They won't work or cut well.

(the anvil is the little Gold-Coloured button thing on the bottom of the pliers. That's where the cutter will hit)

[peteski]

22 hours ago, gman said:

The toolmaker grade punch set would probably be the best option. If you are a DIY type of person, some aluminum or brass tubing with an appropriate inside diameter could probably be sharpened to make your own punch. It could be used against a soft backing. The main concern is having your punched-out decals get stuck inside the tubing and having to get them out gracefully without damaging them.

I successfully use sharpened brass tubing punches to cut out gauges printed on paper (either directly or as decals).  For backing surface I use one of those self-healing hobby mats.  It is hard enough not to yield under pressure, but soft enough not to run the edge of my brass tube punch.

EDIT: I think I sound clarify my method.  I don't use the sharpened-end tubing as a punch, but more like a hole saw.  I put the tube over the decal laying on the cutting mat, then place the tube over the image I want to cut. Then while pressing down on the tube I also spin it until I cut all the way through.

Edited March 16 by peteski

[Hotrodical customs]

16 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Here are two possibilities. The micromark ones sure aren’t cheap, but the advantage is that you can easily get the guage centered on the punch. The leather punches are cheap but harder to get perfectly aligned over the guage.

 

[gman]

2 hours ago, peteski said:

I successfully use sharpened brass tubing punches to cut out gauges printed on paper (either directly or as decals).  For backing surface I use one of those self-healing hobby mats.  It is hard enough not to yield under pressure, but soft enough not to run the edge of my brass tube punch.

I used an HDPE cutting board with home made punches.

 

[gman]

10 hours ago, stitchdup said:

you could use a leather punch. the one i have has 6 sizes of punch and can be used on plastic too. i find i use it quite often for making fuel caps but theres no reason it wouldn't work on decals. mine cost about 20 bucks from a hobby lobby type shop in the fabric section. its meant for belts but its a great tool for us too

I have one of those- handy with thin styrene when you need to punch out some holes, or make some round styrene disks. 

[bobss396]

In my machine shop days, we made quick'n dirty punches from stainless steel rod. Depending on what was being punched, the edge would break down. Easy to touch up.

Before long, it was evident that a thru hole was required to push parts out, via a long industrial q-tip stick.

We punched things like solder pre-forms, thin soft metals.

[TarheelRick]

 

A set similar to these can be bought at Harbor Freight for a fairly reasonable price. I've had my set for several years and they work well for me.